Advice please OFF TOPIC

What do you use to clean genuine wood cabinet doors? I can NOT use anything that will have any lingering fragrance especially citrus. Thanks
Butterfly (Their maid must not have been able to reach anything higher than 5 feet SIGH)
Reply to
Butterflywings
Tung Oil. It is recommended highly by the people who restore sewing machines and their wood cabinets.
THough I have never used it. I can't even find it! ANd I want to!
Melissa in NJ
Reply to
Melissa in NJ
"Butterflywings" wrote in news:rNgdh.59789$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe11.phx:
I love the Queen of Clean for things like this. We have no fragrance in our house and this lady has saved me 100 times. For wood she reccomends tea! 1 quart of boiling water with 1 or 2 tea bags... let it come to room temp and use a soft cloth, keeping rag clean. If you have something extra sticky, grab an oil... and buff at it.... olive oil, baby oil.... whatever oil works with your allergies ;-) Glad you are settling in! Both of these suggestions came from the book Talking Dirty with the Queen of Clean
Reply to
Jan
Murphy Oil Soap DOES have fragrance, by the way. Great cleaner, though. I have used the tea-in-water process, and it works rather well. Just don't soak the wood, and when you finish with one door or section, wipe it down with a dry cloth -- you really don't want to hurt the finish by letting water sit on it! There are also a variety of wood-cleaning products sold in the better antique shops -- or just ask the dealer of lots of antique wood furniture what he/she uses and whether there is an odor and where he/she gets it. Good paint stores also sell a variety of wood-cleaning products, but I believe most of them do have fragrance. (Could you hire somebody to come in and do the cleaning while you go somewhere else for the day?)
> > What do you use to clean genuine wood cabinet doors? I can NOT use > > anything that will have any lingering fragrance especially citrus. Thanks > > Butterfly (Their maid must not have been able to reach anything > > higher than 5 feet SIGH) > > Murphy Oil Soap >
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Reply to
Mary
...Tung oil can be obtained quite easily...most suppliers who supply tools for fine woodworking will have it. I have also seen it on EBay as well offered by many folks.
Tung oil is quite often diluted with a solvent however...suggested solvents are citrus solvent (made from orange peel) and turpentine (pine based and strongly scented)...and if citrus allergies are an issue then you certainly won't want to use the first one..just my 2 cents worth from back in the days when I did some antique furniture restoration.
Alison
> Murphy Oil Soap DOES have fragrance, by the way. Great cleaner, > though. I have used the tea-in-water process, and it works rather > well. Just don't soak the wood, and when you finish with one door or > section, wipe it down with a dry cloth -- you really don't want to hurt > the finish by letting water sit on it! There are also a variety of > wood-cleaning products sold in the better antique shops -- or just ask > the dealer of lots of antique wood furniture what he/she uses and > whether there is an odor and where he/she gets it. Good paint stores > also sell a variety of wood-cleaning products, but I believe most of > them do have fragrance. (Could you hire somebody to come in and do the > cleaning while you go somewhere else for the day?) > > > > What do you use to clean genuine wood cabinet doors? I can NOT use > > > anything that will have any lingering fragrance especially citrus. Thanks > > > Butterfly (Their maid must not have been able to reach anything > > > higher than 5 feet SIGH) > > > > Murphy Oil Soap > >
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Reply to
Alison
Howdy!
Murphy's Oil Soap
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My dad was a carpenter and cabinet maker; it's what he recommended, it's what we use on our hardwood cabinets and wainscoting.
Good luck!
Ragmop/Sandy
On 12/5/06 10:05 AM, in article rNgdh.59789$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe11.phx,
Reply to
Sandy Ellison
So glad you asked. We seem to be world's foremost authority. Miles and miles of wood here in the Swamp home. Some of it is exquisite. Some of it is just a cut above garbage dump grade. All of it benefits from a cleaning with Murphy's. DH (the original misterclean), says his recipe is - a tiny glug of Murphy's into a bucket of water about 6 inches deep. Water must be changed constantly or you are putting dirt and sticky back on. Those blue paper towels from the 'shop' or 'garage' section work well and can be tossed. Butterfly, with months (really) of inside wood-cleaning in progress post Katrina, we did not have a problem with a scent. Perhaps you would want to try just one to see if it is a caution. Polly
Reply to
Polly Esther
Jeri that's what I use to clean everything...1 cap to a dishpan of water form hardwood to ceramic tile to my cabinets.... Go Murphy's...hehehehe Pami
Reply to
pami
Tung oil is more of a finish than a cleaner. Formby actually makes some cleaner. If I remember it is green.
Reply to
Taria
Ah, This is one that I can answer. Never ever clean your furniture or anything wood with any thing but Guardsman's polish and wood cleaner. I learned this from my father owning a furniture store for 54 years. It is the furniture polish and cleaner recommended by your high end furniture manufacturers. It costs a little more but is well worth it. I only polish my furniture once a year and the rest of the year I use one of their cloths on the stuff. Last I got I got off ebay and it was cheap, in a store it is very expensive. Here is a link to one kit on ebay but it isn't the furniture one and the fragrance is citrus, watch for others to come up for auction because they make it fragrance free, also.
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or
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Now I am sure some of you are going to say I have never heard of this, well I recommended it to a cooking group I am on and people have written me over and over telling me thanks, they say a kit sells for like $50.00 or more dollars at home depot or lowes or a store like that but like I said I found my last on ebay. That's one thing I miss about my father having the store.
and I don't get a commission for the stuff, either.
Jacqueline in KY
Reply to
Jacqueline in KY
Butterfly, if nothing else works, and I am sure you've had some super advice..........I have had great luck cleaning all sorts of surfaces with the Degreaser you can get in gallon jugs at Sam's Club. The scent does not linger. It takes off the most incredible layers of dried grease from every surface I have washed, though it's not much good at removing baked on grease. Wear rubber gloves, it will also peel a layer of skin from your hands. It is (relatively) inexpensive.
After cleaning and rinsing, I think a good dousing/soaking and rubbing with some kind of woodworking oil would be very effective in restoring the natural lustre (luster? I don't think so! lol) of the wood. If memory serves me right, Tung oil is the right thing, I have used it on quite a few natural wood items and it seems to be very, very good. A lovely shine and no buildup. I would have to go out to the shed to check the brand name on my supply, but I bet it won't matter what brand. One of my brothers had a shop teacher who recommended plain old mineral oil for things like knife blocks and cutting boards. I like it very much for kitchen things that get washed frequently and need re-oiling often.
Now, if someone has an idea for removing the crust from the outside of cast-iron skillets, I'd sure appreciate a tip!
Reply to
Carolyn McCarty
I like the way you label boxes. You certainly do have your priorities in order. Polly
"Butterflywings" wrote, in part > Only unpacked ONE box today and it was full of
Reply to
Polly Esther
wrote:
Mineral oil does not go rancid and is not poisonous, so it is perfect for use on wood surfaces that touch foods. Debra in VA See my quilts at
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Reply to
Debra

Alton Brown recommends this method, too. For every day cleaning, he recommends scrubbing with coarse salt and a paper towel.
My method is to leave the cast iron cleaning to DH. He wanted the skillet, he can clean it. :)
(I have to admit I have been eyeing a cast iron Dutch oven, though...)
Reply to
Kathy Applebaum

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