Binding requires several steps to finish the quilt. I do it all quite nicely, but find joining the ends is still a bit of a challenge to me. When I do the first stitching (front or back) I leave the required free starting end to join once I get back to that side, then leave another generous free finish end. Problems? For one thing, how do I know if I am stitching in the same slant direction as all the slant seams in the bias length?? For another, how do I get it snug, but not tight and leave some ease with out leaving gaps? Advice or web sites are welcome.
What I do is keep about 12 inches or so unsewn at the beginning. I don't press the fold in that part of the binding.
Then when I get all the way around, I over lap the two binding ends the EXACT amount as the width of the original binding (before folding or sewing). Trim away the excess.
By keeing 12 - 15 inches free on each side of the binding, you can then pull the quilt together enough that you can work on joining the bindings without going nuts. You line them up at a 90 degree angle ... right sides together and will be sewing your regular diagonal seam. What I do is pin along that seam first and make sure I haven't twisted my fabrics. You'll know right away if it lies flat or if there is a twist. Once I'm sure I'm good to go, I then pin on either side of the diagonal and remove the pins from the diagonal... and then stitch away. Cut away 1/4 inch from your seam, press in half and then stitch. If your overlap was the EXACT width of your fabric, it should lie nice and flat as you finish off your binding.
There are several "How to" videos on this site. One of them is a very good demo of attaching "Binding with a No-Show Joint". You will be presented with a pictorial menu of options. The binding video is on the second "page". Just click the arrow and you will see it.
Rita L.
Pat > Binding requires several steps to finish the quilt. I do it all quite
I do like the rest of them and leave some loose binding at each end. The ending end is cut at a 45 degree angle and pressed under 1/4 in. Then I lay that on the beginning and use an appliqué stitch to attach them to each other. Cut off the excess and finish the binding. They are always the right length and you never get the angles backwards or have to do any wrestling with it.
Leslie & The Furbabies in cold, wet, nasty 'Misery', USA
Stop sewing the binding down a good distance from where you want the binding to meet. Pin instead. When you get to the meeting place, get out your ruler, and use the 45 degree angle line on your ruler to fold one tail up and the other tail down. The ruler line helps you see the angle. Iron those folds flat. The iron line is where you're going to sew.
Take the pins out. Because you haven't sewn down the binding on that side yet, you have plenty of room to fold the quilt and pull the binding in place. Holding the iron lines so that they meet, pin like crazy, about every 1/4". Usually the advice is to remove the pins as you come to them sewing. In this case, however, I give you permission to sew over the pins. If you break a needle, it's gone to the good cause of perfect bindings.
Take it out from the sewing machine, and have a look. Lay your quilt flat on the table, and line the binding up along the edge of the quilt. Does it lie flat? Good! Then trim the excess a 1/4" from the seam; iron the seam flat; pin the binding back down, and sew the binding on to the quilt.
Doesn't lie flat because it's too loose? Sew another seam next to the first one away from the tails. There's no need to take out the first. Doesn't lie flat because it's too tight? Sew the new seam a little closer to the tails. Get it right; then remove the first seam. When you're reasonably happy, trim the excess tail, and procede as above.
OH MY GOD! That makes so much sense. Where have I been. I just have to try this on my next quilt. Maybe even on a dummy demo. I have never been happy with my overlapping. This has just got to work for me.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you
Steven Alaska
Then when I get all the way around, I over lap the two binding ends the EXACT amount as the width of the original binding (before folding or sewing). Trim away the excess.
By keeing 12 - 15 inches free on each side of the binding, you can then pull the quilt together enough that you can work on joining the bindings without going nuts. You line them up at a 90 degree angle ... right sides together and will be sewing your regular diagonal seam. What I do is pin along that seam first and make sure I haven't twisted my fabrics. You'll know right away if it lies flat or if there is a twist. Once I'm sure I'm good to go, I then pin on either side of the diagonal and remove the pins from the diagonal... and then stitch away. Cut away 1/4 inch from your seam, press in half and then stitch. If your overlap was the EXACT width of your fabric, it should lie nice and flat as you finish off your binding.
I won't attempt to join in the 'how to' directions! But, you did also ask about how to make sure your joining seam goes the same way as the joining seams along its length. Once I started to do my joining as described here in other threads, I also worried a lot about the angle. It's trick because you are concentrating on getting the length right, first and foremost. So, what I found myself doing and have since adopted as a 'rule' is: I look at the other joins and say aloud 'left end down, coming up to the outside at the RHS end'. Then I go quickly back to my pinned final join, lie it down as it would be when finished, and say my little directional phrase. Does my pinned seam match that - or does it go the opposite way? Adjust, if necessary!
(I do chuckle at some of lengths given - leave about 8-10", or even 12", free to do the final join. When I have been doing my miniatures, sometimes the whole side is 12" or less >gBinding requires several steps to finish the quilt. I do it all quite
This is about the way that I do it too. Although Lia has explained it better than I could. The IRONING of the 45 degree fold is the most important part - gives you a nice seam line to follow. I double check how everything fits before sewing, the pressed folds should just barely meet.
Allis> Pat >> Binding requires several steps to finish the quilt. I do it all quite
Fons and Porter had this on one of their episodes, too. Just the same way. it does work, and looks great! it's a bit more work in the thought process, but rewarding. Good luck!
Thank you for all the helpful advice. I pretty much do it the way several of you described. Although I usually have success, but sometimes have to fiddle with it .... now I realize everyone does. I was hoping for a 'magic' way to do it quickly AND well! I had not learned about cutting the overlap to equal the exact width of binding. I will try that. I will also print out several other useful tips. Thank you all for taking the time to help with this. We all learn so much from each other here.
Okay, Hanne, I admit: I was looking for a Fast, Magic Answer!! LOL I guess I just need to be patient about this step .... it is near the end anyhow, so what's the rush? Grins, PAT
I am with you there - I want the Fast, Magic Answer too!
Me, I'm like: "It is near the end, I want it done!" About 1 in 10 times I get myself all confused about it, and I have to walk away and do something different for a while. And the other 9 in 10 no problem. Weird.
Hanne in London
Pat > Okay, Hanne, I admit: I was looking for a Fast, Magic Answer!! LOL
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