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Figuring Fabric for Binding

Okay, having rudely discovered yesterday that I don't have enough of a certain fabric to do the exact fabric layout I had in mind for my mom's table runner, I had to switch some choices around until I found a new color layout I like and have fabric for.....

Now! The question is, do I have enough of a particular fabric for the binding and if so how to cut it, etc. I'd like to know this before I start on the thing so I can know NOW if I need to go back to the colored pencils *again* or start scouring every JoAnns I can drive to to find another FQ in the fabric my mom chose. I would like to eliminate as many unpleasant surprises as possible for this.....

The top consists of a variety of 5x5 in (finished size) squares (some plain, some made of 4 patches), offset with triangles cut from 8.5" squares (the kind of triangles that come from getting 4 of them from a square so the slanted edge is on the straight of grain) so that the table runner has pointed ends, not boxy ones. Am I correct that since the triangles were cut as they were from a 8.5" square that the outer edge, when sewn to the other squares, should each be 8.5" - .25" - .25" to then give length of 8" that the binding would attach to?

If I am correct in that above, raw edges of the top would be:

[18"(two squares + 1 triangle)] * 4 (2 at bottom to make point, 2 at top to make point) + [40" (5 triangles up a side)] * 2 (to account for the other side) + 1 to account for seam allowances top and bottom squares "on point" = 153 inches just around the outside of the raw pieced top

AIEEEEEEEEEEE! I swear, one would never know I was a math minor in college the way I butcher that and can't figure out on my own.....

I think I'm confused as all get out (only other project I did with a binding, I wrapped the backing around and used that)....

Could some of you experienced quilt masters please ask me the leading questions to help me arrive at the correct information I need...I'm clueless and confused!

TIA, starting to feel more discouraged than encouraged about doing this table runner, Tricia

Reply to
Tricia
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I may be confused, but conclude from this description that you have six 5" squares set on point to make a table runner. The points at each end would therefore be the sides of these squares?? So 2 X 10" for the pointed ends, plus 10 X 8" for the setting triangles? Equals 100". Assuming you plan to make double-fold binding, you'd need to cut 3 strips of

40" fabric, 2.5" wide, so I'd allow 8". If it's a FQ, you'd need 5 strips, total 12.5" but that's cutting it very close. You actually need to add 2-3" to the length around to allow for the mitered corners. Roberta in D

"Tricia" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news: snipped-for-privacy@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

Reply to
Roberta Zollner

Thanks Roberta...

now that I'm home and can see my drawings, let's see if I can describe it better....

center most part is 7 5" (finished size) plain squares set on point, on either side of the inner most 5 are 5" (finished) 4-patch squares so that there are 6 of these 4 patches up each side of the center plain squares. Then, there are border triangles (I think is what they are called when placed to fill spaces between on point squares) -- 5 on each side and made from 8.5" squares twice bi-sected.

What it winds up looking like is something like this: S = plain square T = triangle P= 4 patch

SPT PSPT TPSPT TPSPT TPSPT TPSP TPS

(now, hopefully that lined up right with each "bottom" T underneath a P)

I seem to recall reading somewhere or seeing demonstrated a way to make a continous binding strip out of a length of fabric but can't for the life of me remember where or the specifics -- I know it had to do with offsetting opposite edges when you sewed them together, making a tube of fabric basically with two "unattached" flaps where the fabric had been offset. I don't know if that would allow me to make better use of the FQ I have or not. Am pretty sure it would mean the binding was on the bias and I don't know if that is advisable or not for something like this.

The instructions I was inspired by at work didn't have a binding measurement that I can recall -- I'll double check when I get in in about a half hour.

Tricia

Roberta Zollner wrote:

Reply to
Tricia

I'll try this one Tricia. First, do you *need* bias binding or can you use straight grain binding? The directions to make straight strips of straight binding are easy. I haven't done bias so can't advise you there.

The formula I use is for a rectangular quilt rather than one with pointy ends but would give you a ballpark figure anyway: take 2 times the length plus 2 times the width plus about 3" for *each* mitered corner. That gives you the lineal strip length that you need.

To figure out how many strips you need to cut: divide that lineal strip length by the number of inches of usable width of fabric you have (40-44 inches for full piece, probably 20-22 for a FQ). I usually round this number up a squidge. (squidge = technical term, LOL)

To figure how much total fabric you need, multiply the number of strips needed by width of binding strips (I use 2.25"). Again, I round this up a squidge.

A table runner that measures about 36" long by about 15" wide would need about 3 strips of WOF (about 8.75"). If you are using FQs it would be 6 strips, 22" long by 2.25" wide or 15.5" (less than one FQ)

I got my formulas from a spreadsheet available at:

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Anne > Okay, having rudely discovered yesterday that I don't have enough of a

Reply to
Anne in CA

Yes, this will give you a bias binding, which you don't need unless you are binding curved edges. The amount of fabric required should be pretty much the same whether you use bias or straight binding. It takes the same number of square inches of fabric either way.

If you don't have enough fabric for binding, you could "birth" it. Then you don't need a binding.

Julia in MN

Reply to
Julia in MN

Somehow, Anne, I don't think Tricia is intending to make a rectangle. It sounds like she has 'pointed' ends which might (or might not) give her 6 corners to miter. I'll stand aside for the math experts here but wasn't sure you followed her description. Not all that sure that I followed along either. Nevermind. Carry on. Polly

Reply to
polly esther

Reply to
Pat in Virginia

OK, I think I've got it. Your pointy ends are three sides of the 5" squares, = 30" total. Plus 10 X 8" = 80" for the setting triangles, so 110" all the way around, give or take a few inches. (The diagonal of a 5" square is a smidgen over 7", but let's call it 8". We're generous folks :-)

So you probably need to cut 6 binding strips from your FQ, which would take

15-16". IOW, a whole FQ.

Making continuous bias binding involves turning your rectangle into a diamond shape by cutting off one side on the bias and sewing it to the other side. Then you join the other 2 straight-grain sides, offsetting the edges by the width of your desired bias strip. Press all the seams open. You'll have a twisty sort of tube. Then cut around and around the tube until it's all one long strip. The disadvantage of this method is the extra seam (the one you did to make the diamond shape in Step1.) Also, unless you are very careful, it's a pain to keep the strip perfectly even. For this small amount of binding, don't bother! Roberta in D

"Tricia" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news: snipped-for-privacy@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Reply to
Roberta Zollner

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