Help-Machine quilting

Hi everyone

I need some tips on how to improve my machine quilting. Here are a few tidbits of information first that limit things a bit.

I don't have a very large area, basically a desk area, so things are bunched up a bit. If I really, really had to, I could temporarily move to the kitchen table. Whether on my desk or the table, I usually use my clear machine table extension. This gives me a larger flatter area whether I use my quilting gloves or the lay-on-top quilting "hoop". I pin my backing out on the carpet, taut, not tight, and likewise the other layers. I pin a lot, but could probably pin more.

Now for the problem. When I go to quilt, whether stipple, or in-the-ditch, or other design, I can't seem to keep the layers somewhat taut so that I have no puckers on the back, or between sections. I basically need to stipple in the squares on my baltimore, and then do something different in the sashing. Obviously it will be done in sections, but I've always had problems when it comes time to do the sashing. It looks good on the front, but too much fabric in the sashing areas on the back. Puckers and lots of them.

How to I keep it all taut across the width as I quilt along? I don't use a very thick batting since these will more than likely hung on the wall, so thickness isn't really a problem. I know that I'm probably missing something, but on this quilt I really want to do my very best.

Thanks for all your input.

Steven Alaska

Reply to
Steven Cook
Loading thread data ...

One thing I do try to do, Steven, is create a basic framework before anything else. Even if it means 'stitch in the ditch' along major construction seams. This does give you, automatically, a small, secured area to free motion or whatever you are going to do. I know SITD is difficult, but there are a couple of ways I have found to make it a little easier: when you set it up to start, supposing you are going to SITD down a long straight seam where the seam allowance has been pressed to the side: ensure that your major source of light is coming from the *low* side of the seam. This means that you are sewing in as good a light as can be achieved. If it is the other way round, you are stitching in shadow.

instead of using the normal straight stitch, you could try using the very tiniest zig-zag (0.5 x 0.5). I have used this quite a lot and it looks real nice. Any observer will take ages to see why it looks so pretty!

I think it was Roberta who first alerted me to the principle of stabilising the quilt before the fancy stuff, and I have found it enormously helpful - thanks Roberta (I hope I have that right).

Good luck and try not to get tense, if you are trying specially hard. . In message , Steven Cook writes

Reply to
Pat S

Thanks Pat

SITD sounds like a good idea. This would naturally give me smaller areas as you say. I'll also have to try the smallest zig zag, but will probably do it on some sample pieces first. Sounds intriging.

Steven Alaska

Reply to
Steven Cook

Funny to see you and Pat S communicating. My guess is that you are the last one of us to bed and Pat was the first one up, or something, since there are so very many miles between you. I've studied your question hoping to find an aha! I find none. The word 'taut' sort of raises a question. Maybe, maybe you're getting carried away with that. I simply spread my backing out until it is smooth - not an easy trick since our carpet wants to be sort of grabby. Just smooth. Not tight or firmly or taut and then the other layers the same. This includes giving up and setting the Yorkie up on the sofa several times. He thinks this is a game. The worst battle I ever had with a quilt was one where I followed some expert's directions and forced everything to be stretched like a drum. All three layers sprang (is that a word ?) back at different levels of bounce and then the fight began. Do pin lots. Lots. And, of course, there's this. If your creation is going to be hanging with its back to the wall, a pleat or two won't show anyway. HTH Polly

"Steven Cook" Thanks Pat

Reply to
Polly Esther

I do mostly what Susan has said but instead of hand cream I use tightly fitted finger rubber stalls (the kind you count pages or money with) on my thumbs, and two fingers on both hands. Works for me. I also roll the quilt and use bicycle clips (the ones to protect the pants from getting caught in the chain) or huge bulldog clips to keep it rolled and start in the middle and do a section at a time about 12 inches wide from either top to bottom or side to side, which ever is the shortest to sew through the machine, which ever works the easiest.

I also find that having the machine on the table, it seems to be too high to not get sore shoulders, so I sit on a couple of pillows/cushions to raise my body to a more comfortable position to manoeuvre the quilt. Good luck.

Reply to
DiMa

You've had a lot of good advice already. I agree with Polly that you might be pulling the backing too taut. IMO the carpet is not an ideal basis for pinning, something smooth and flat and hard is better.

How about trying this: Pin a double row of basting pins down the middle, about 4" apart, maybe on each side of a sashing strip. Sew between the pins. Go slow-ish and use a walking foot if possible. Check the back for tucks. then lay it out again and pin some more, and do a line on each side parallel to the middle bit. Check again for tucks, and make sure your backing lies perfectly flat and even. When all the sashing is quilted in one direction, do the other direction. With everything stabilized in this way, doing the fiddly bits in the blocks is easy. Easier.

If you do get tucks on the back during one line of stitching while using a walking foot and feed dogs engaged, the problem might be from too much stress on top -don't shove with the gloves when the machine is supposed to be doing the work. Also, the acrylic table combined with not enough space to support the quilt could lead to odd areas of stress. The backing basically has to drag over that acrylic edge and pull the weight of the quilt with it, attached by the pins. Recipe for trouble! Figure out a way to lift the part that's heading under the needle so it doesn't drag. To do this, you need enough space behind the machine so you don't use your energy pushing on the wad of quilt to make it fit back there. But you also don't want it suddenly dropping off the back edge of your table.

I pin on a table that pulls out to about 2.5 yards. Pin the middle section first, then shift to the sides. I use masking tape to hold the backing down, but only for the middle section. The tape is mainly there to keep the backing from wrinkling as I lay the batting in place. Also, I don't lift up the sandwich in any way to get the pins in, and I stop pinning about 2" from the edge of the table.

Another issue is the type of batt>Hi everyone

Reply to
Roberta

I cannot agree more! For now, I don't use my extension table at all, preferring the bed of my machine by itself for quilting. The bed is not too small, and also has a nice slope at the front, allowing for a great "slide". And no if pins get stuck on the edge, I feel it immediately because it is right there by my hands.

Hanne in DK

Reply to
Hanne

Being of sound mind, ( LOL), I publicly confess to using miles of 50/50 for the crib quilts. It is not easy to find but seems to be just right for the little folks. OTOH, I did one time and only one time figure high loft would be wonderful. That's a mistake I only made once. Polly

"Roberta"

Reply to
Polly Esther

Oh so many things Polly. Yes, Bert and I were up way late watching a movie. That happens on occasion now that school is out. And yes, when I still had my Tyler, how many times did I put him up on the couch if not in his kennel for a wee period of time.

I too can only imagine the problems created by "stretched by a drum". Sounds like trouble from the get-go. Maybe I need to unrool my huge cutting mat and smooth everything out like you said.

Yes on the wall factor, but I would like to begin to get a handle on this so that something that will not be hung on the wall will turn out better.

Thanks

Steven Alaska

Reply to
Steven Cook

DiMa, Mom and I machine quilted a bedspread size quilt, yes you read that right, as our first attempt. My school was out, I marked and pinned all day, we sewed all evening and on weekends, used bicycle clips, chairs to hold the excess, and I held the rest and walked back and forth a zillion times. It was STID in the center medallion, cross-hatch on the pillow tuck, and diagonals on all the overhang. Don't know how we did it and why it turned out so well. Never want to experience that again, but it all worked. Mom sat on two or three pillows if I remember correctly.

Steven Alaska

Reply to
Steven Cook

Roberta, this gives me an even better picture of things. I really think now that I will unpin everything and totally start over. This makes so much sense.

Thanks

Steven Alaska

Reply to
Steven Cook

Hanne, maybe that is what I need to do. Not use the acrylic table to SITD and use it when I am quilting smaller sections when my hands will be gripping flat and need the extra space.

Steven Alaska

I cannot agree more! For now, I don't use my extension table at all, preferring the bed of my machine by itself for quilting. The bed is not too small, and also has a nice slope at the front, allowing for a great "slide". And no if pins get stuck on the edge, I feel it immediately because it is right there by my hands.

Hanne in DK

Reply to
Steven Cook

Well, I probably am not often considered of sound mind. I seem to end up with batting or fabrics that are given to me for charity quilts once in a while. I think if I got high loft I would probably just tie some comforters rather than try to quilt it. Some will split apart though for reasonable loft. I was give a few very large mountain mist poly batts that I have been working through. They sew up surprisingly well. They make up a soft and cuddly quilt that will dry fast. I wouldn't buy the stuff but have put a lot of it to good use. I get pretty good results with Harriet Hargarve and her method for pinning. I wear gloves to machine quilt with, pin a LOT, and use a set up where the machine is inset into a table and flat. I think that makes a big difference in how much 'fight' the sandwich will give you. If you are having puckers on the back I don't think you are pinning enough. Here are some great tips:

formatting link
HTH, Taria

Reply to
news.eternal-september.org

Thanks Taria

Lots of good info there. What I'm finding, to no surprise, is that I need to pin half as much again most likely.

Thanks

Steven Alaska

Reply to
Steven Cook

Our group had a talk from a 'batting maestro' last week. She said she had abandoned all other types of 'fixing' the layers, in favour of spraying; and recommended it highly. I plan to try it - when/if ever I am next ready to sandwich a finished quilt. . In message , Linda writes

Reply to
Pat S

Just to be devil's advocate....I finally tried spray basting on a largish quilt because a friend of mine said it was the greatest way to go. Previously I'd always pin basted large quilts although I *have* spray basted small ones (say 2ft by 3ft). Anyway, never again for a large quilt. I found it difficult to ease in any wrinkles since they kept getting held up by the stickiness of the spray. I had to try and "unstick" certain areas so I could re-smooth them, whereas with pins I could just keep adding pins to a problem spot until it was all eased in.

Allison

Reply to
AllisonH

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.