only one method,
your most favourite and do tell me why please.
if you have any links, that shows you're method, would be appreciated.
ya never know i might not have seen the ones you've got.
others might like a bit of a look see at them too.
I enjoy needle-turn applique most -- simple to do, useful on almost
everything, looks good, and requires no equipment beyond needle/thread/
good eye. A little old lady taught me years ago, so I have no on line
sources for you. However, there is almost always some sort of
illustrated instruction in various applique techniques in most
Baltimore quilt pattern books.
I like a method that I've not seen in a book (and I've looked in
several), it's needle turn with freezer paper underneath. The only
difficulty is accurate placing of the pieces, but I suspect that could
be overcome with a light box (I don't have one). It does mean you need
to remove the paper, but then you'd have to do that on any method where
you prepare the pieces. I've found that with freezer paper on top that
there is an annoying tendency for it to peel, particularly at corners.
Not sure what it is called. But cut out your shape. I use stick glue,
like the kind the kids use in school to stick it to my backing. Then I
just satin stitch around it. I really like it, it's easier then I ever
thought. Sometimes I use matching thread, sometimes opposite thread or
even rainbow colored thread. Depends on the project.
The method I use most often is the sturdiest and the fastest. For a
template, I have a nicely shaped heart cut from sandpaper. I cut two hunks
of fabric bigger than the heart, place them right sides together and stitch
around the sandpaper heart. Trim, slash, turn, press. Voila!
Next I hold the pressed appliqué in position on the quilt block with a
swipe of a glue stick. The usual SM stitch is the one that goes ___/\___.
Sometimes I use matching thread and a skinny V, sometimes I'm a showoff,
load with black thread and use a blanket stitch.
This method can survive just about any wear and tear and will work for
most simple shapes. You do have to pay attention when slashing or you can
wind up with two left feet or a backwards b which is, of course, d.
I've become addicted to appliqué. It's all I want to do right now. I like
the freezer paper on the wrong side method. I had an "a-HA!" moment when I
saw someone appliqué a piece down, snip the wrong side of the foundation and
pull the paper out through the slit.
That had never occurred to me. And it was a revelation because before I saw
that, no matter how careful I tried to be, I always distorted the piece
trying to pull the paper out before the piece was sewn completely down.
Oh, and I use the heat of my fingers to crease the fabric over the edge of
the freezer paper before I start stitching it down. I always have my little
Clover iron beside me. I don't think I could appliqué without it.
I use this method but I baste the fabric around the freezer paper so it
stays in place while I sew it down. (I iron it too at this stage). I've
never used glue on the pieces.
I do a small running stitch around the outside curves and just pull the
stitches up so that it fits snugly round the freezer paper. Any visible
gathers disappear when its stitched down.
When I remove the freezer paper from the back I also trim the excess
foundation fabric back to about a 1/4" to reduce bulk.
No instruction pictures - this was the way I was taught at the LQS's
Sally at the Seaside~~~~~~~~~~~~~uk
I do a lot of sm satin stitch appliqué. My fav method is to draw the
pattern in reverse on tracing paper (cheap, crispy, thin paper). The paper
drawing is pinned to the wrong side of the backing fabric. Then I work from
the 'bottom' appliqué shapes forward. (For a simple flower with stem and
leaves and center the order would be leaves, stem and flower then flower
center.) First I'd place the green fabric for the leaves wrong side to
right side of the background. Then sewing from the paper side I outline the
leaf shape with very small stitches. Trim the leaf fabric close to the
stitching, trim away the background fabric behind the leaf and on to the
With this method you are all ready for satin stitching as soon as the paper
pattern is removed- and bits of paper aren't a problem as they are on the
wrong side of the background. The appliqué is prepared without using
fusibles (time consuming, bulky, expensive and it can get stiff with many
layers) or messing with any additional preparation. Your shapes are all in
place with the edges well secured and ready to satin stitch in the same
order as they were outline stitched.
And I *always* test my satin stitch and the threads I will be using before I
start sewing the satin stitch on the block/quilt top and I *always* use a
quality tear-away stabilizer. And I *always* use the sm foot with a groove
on the bottom and an open toe- so I can see exactly what I'm doing and the
satin stitch slides nicely under the foot- otherwise it can get stuck and
the stitches will pile up and make an ugly lump of stitches. I have
pivoting on the curves down to an art! ;-)
Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.
A very interesting attack, Leslie. I think I'll try it - maybe on burp
cloths until your method and I become friendly. Yesterday I saw a special
offer of four burp cloths for only $ 32.00. Not, of course, including tax
and shipping. Doesn't that just stagger you? What is your preferred needle
for pretty satin stitching? Polly
"Leslie& The Furbabies in MO." <
In article , "J*"
Like Pat, I haven't done nearly as much appliqué as piecing, but I have
done a little. For machine appliqué (which I much prefer at this stage),
I like to use Sharon Schamber's technique. She glues the edges of each
piece around a special foundation that becomes fiber after getting wet
(this allows it to make the appliqué "puff" very slightly). Then use a
tiny ZZ stitch all around.
For hand appliqué, which I'm still trying to learn to like, Martha
Nordstrand has a good way. The pieces are glue-sticked around freezer
paper, then "placed" on a template of the entire pattern that's inside
of a piece of plastic (like a page protector) and glued in place. Once
the glue dries, you can lift the entire motif -- stems, leaves *and*
flowers, for example -- and place it on a background fabric for hand
stitching. This allows you to audition different background quite easily.
I find I use a size 14 topstitching needle for almost everything but
piecing. I try out several needles and use the one that likes the fabric,
thread and the type of appliqué- as in how may layers I'm sewing thru. On
the trial piece I start with my stitch length at .30 and width at somewhere
between 1.5 and 2.5 depending on how much the fabric shreds, how close I
trimmed, how many layers I'm working with, etc. Then I make my minor
adjustments as needed. And I always lower the top tension from 5 to 4 to
prevent the bobbin thread from coming to the top- unless that's the look I
want for that piece. So... as always- it depends! LOL
What a fine sale you found on those burp cloths. I hope you stocked up!
Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.
Cindy, I think Leslie has the tracing paper gone before she does the satin
stitching that requires the stabilizer. Her instructions are very
particular (not the word I'm looking for but good enough) - I'm thinking
I'd better print them and keep them close at hand before I give it a try.
I *always* have my stabilizer against the feeddogs with the fabric, paper,
etc. stacked above that. Sometimes I use a heavy water soluble stabilizer
when it's appropriate like for machine lace (it's terribly expensive and I
resent every millimeter of waste!), but my very favorite stabilizer is Easy
Stitch. I buy it by the bolt. It's a bit spongy and rubbery feeling and
has perforations. The one thing I really love about it is that it will melt
away under a hot iron. Now don't go thinking I melt it off rather than tear
it! VBG Like for the edges of postcards when you satin stitch the edges,
then pull off the tear away you have will little whiskers of the stabilizer
on the edge of the postcard. A hot iron will make those disappear when you
use the Easy Stitch. I often make free standing appliqués and satin stitch
the edges before it's applied to the quilt- same thing with melting the
DO NOT iron anything larger than whiskers when using Easy Stitch!!! ;-)
Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.
Polly, I do this also, but instead of using two pieces of fabric, I
use one used dry sheet and then the fabric of choice. Sew wrong side
of abric to the dryer sheet. Trim, then make a slit in the dryer
sheet, turn right sides out.
I used ths method also when doing my Moon over the Mountain blocks!
Ginger in CA
hand-sewing the binding on baby quilt today, label, off to the wash
with it, then gifting it off
Sorry, yes, the paper is removed before the satin stitching- after all the
shapes have been outline sewn in place thru the paper- with the appropriate
fabric- onto the background fabric... not a foundation fabric. I only sew
thru the paper to get the outline of the shapes stitched in place... then
it's removed. And don't forget to trim after each step.
Then I satin stitch over the straight stitches and tiny margin that's left
after trimming the appliquéd fabrics... that were sewn thru the paper. I
apologize for not being clearer in the instructions- I'd just woke up and
hadn't yet had my Diet Cherry Coke! LOL
It's always worth the few extra minutes of experimenting with a technique,
fabrics, threads, needles, stabilizers and tension settings to save hours of
frustration and wasted fabrics. And asking lots of questions to get
everything clear in your mind! LOL
Leslie & The Furbabies in MO.