Oookay (mildly hyper, be warned :)). I'm trying to psych myself up to make what's for me a significant pattern alteration: bust (since I'm more-endowed than the pattern allows). At least I *think* that's the adjustment I need to be making.
It's for Burda 8379:
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-- if anyone wants to see it.I'm already planning taper from a size 26 on the top to a 30 below thewaist, to deal with my wider hips. But I noticed when I was looking overthe measurements that my front waist length (shoulder to waist over thebreast) is *way* out of whack, which I can only assume is because of cupsize?
Do I "simply" do a slash and spread, as illustrated in the full bust enlargement here (and thanks to whomever posted that link):
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And will this adjustment make anything go weird and make me panic?:)
I really like this pattern; I've got two nice pieces of linen (well, one linen and one linen blend) which I think will make up quite nicely, and I think the dress will be at least not unflattering, so I don't want to screw it up -- the idea of putting in the zippers was stressful enough without a serious bit of pattern fiddling.
I don't see why it shouldn't work. Do the bust alteration before grading up to the larger size for the bottom half.
Take care that you copy the right size for the top half as it should be BEFORE the full bust alteration (e.e. NOT based on full but measurement, but based on a high bust measurement).
Designers never cut into good fabric before testing a pattern. I know, I know, you want to get to work. But what if you don't make the correct adjustment? Then the fabric is ruined. If it's only a bust adjustment that is needed--no armhole, shoulder, etc., then you don't even have to slash and spread. You can pivot 1/4 of the needed adjustment. This way, you don't change anything but the bust. Cut the front and shoulder. Stick a pin in the end of the shoulder (next to the armhole) and pivot the pattern out. Cut the armhole. Stick a pin in the side seam (next to the armhole), and pivot the pattern back. You will see that the pattern has moved over from the front edge. Do the same thing for the back.
Then, cut the front, back and sleeves and baste them together on the machine. Try it on. You can make other adjustments if needed. If the adjustments are extensive, then carefully rip the "muslin" and use it for your pattern.
Actually, if it is a bust *cup* adjustment of any notice, you need additional length as well as width (it took me 20 years of sewing to find that out), so yes, she might need to slash and spread.
Apart from that, I'm with you 250% on the "try it on a trial garment first and don't cut out your good fabric until you know you have what you want" type of comment.
You did not say how much more room you need in the bust but, unless you want to wear shapeless things, this kind of problem will present itself in almost every pattern or RTW garment you buy. The good news is that with a bit of reading and practice, you can learn not only how to make these adjustments with facility but also discover what patterns are the best for "manipulation". Several good, basic books on the topic are:
"Fast Fit" by Sandra Betzina "Fit for Real People", Palmer & Pletsch "Fitting Finesse" by Nancy Zieman
There are a number of different methods and, IMO, it is prudent to familiarize yourself with the basic ones. Each lends itself to a different body type and garment design. Then buy 10 yards of cheap muslin and practice fitting bodices. I guarantee that the time investment will pay off significantly, even if you later decide to buy pattern drafting software like Wild Ginger that will make patterns according to your individual measurements.
First of all, rule number one for well-endowed women is that horizontal bust darts of the type in your chosen pattern are almost always problematic because they end up way too high and short. The purpose of darts is to accommodate the curves of the body. The point of the dart should end 1/2 to 1" away from the apex of fullness. That goes for both the vertical and side darts. Both will have to be repositioned and expanded. I generally avoid (or eliminate) horizontal darts altogether in favor of princess seaming and French darts. You can fudge this dress a little by making the back a tad bigger since you have to do that anyway for wider hips. So pivoting out the entire side seam (including the armhole) from the outer shoulder point, on both the front and the back, will give you slightly more room in the bust as well as more in the hips.
If it were me doing this pattern, I would likely add width to the dress fronts between the inner and outer shoulder points and, depending on how much more room is needed, either (1) rotate the side dart to the shoulder (not a very good solution here) (2) replace the side dart with a French dart, add a shoulder dart, and increase the lower vertical dart width, spreading the additional width among the three; or (3) (my favorite) gather the newly added width at the shoulder, being a little extra generous, and then place a couple lines of angled (not horizontal) ruching between the armhole and the neckline point. This would result in a gathered shoulder with the gathers held down by the ruching and then allowed to fan out over the bust. #3 will not work with heavier weight fabrics, of course. I'd also add an extra few inches length on the fronts and a little at the back side seams to accommodate the length the bust will "steal". You will need to set the hem from the floor so you don't have any dips or unevenness.
Good luck and be sure to let us know what you did. :)
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