Hi everyone, I'm adjusting a princess-seam blouse pattern where the full bust adjustment is only ~3/4in. but I also have to lower the apex by about two inches. A full bust adjustment seems pretty straightforward, but how do I make a lower bust adjustment while still maintaining a good fit through the shoulders and waist? I can't find any tutorials on lower bust adjustments so any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you!
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Kay Lancaster
Oh, this is hard to do in words... if it doesn't make sense, I'll do you a sketch and stick it up someplace public.
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I would align the center front and side front pieces at the bustline.
Draw a horizontal line just above the start of the bust shaping, and one just below it.
Imagine cutting across the pattern pieces on those lines... you could then lower the bust point by adding
2" at the upper line, and taking 2" out at the lower line, just by splicing in 2" of paper above and taking out 2 below, then smoothing the seamlines.
The problem with this is that the bottom of the armscye is often a little lower than the bust point. And you don't want to add 2" to the length of the front armscye. Solution is, instead of the upper line cutting across the armscye, to cut just below the armscye, then jog up to above the bust shaping, and cut the horizontal across the side front. Then separate and add in the 2". Armscye isn't touched.
Kay
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Polly Esther
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Bobbie Sews More
I always enjoy/ and learn much from your explanations! Thanks! Barbara in SC
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Betty
replying to Kay Lancaster , Betty wrote: Thanks Kay! I tried this along with the FBA and the fit is perfect!
Thank you so much, ~Betty
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