martial arts uniform sew pattern ?

I'm sure Sharon H. will be along any minute, she has made Gis for her BIL and son. In the meantime, try:

is a link to the Google archives of alt.sewing, you may find useful links, I searched on "Gi" and "Author: Sharon": tinyurl goes to the same page, in case that URL breaks:

If you want a pattern, get the round earth pattern. They pick and choose and only sell patterns that will actually work for martial arts.

This is a usable set of instructions:

's a little scarce on details. And I would tell you not to fold theshoulder. Put a seam in there. All the martial arts gis I've seen have ashoulder seam. So instead of cutting the way it shows on the instructionshere, cut 4 pieces. Two fronts and two backs. A gi is basically a just past hip length kimono. *1 (that's why I gave you a link for making kimono.) There are just a few differences and things to keep in mind. Here we go......

Once the collar band is on, it will need to be stiffened. (it could get grabbed and used to throw, etc.) That's not hard but it is time consuming. You will need to topstitch the collar band every 1/4" from the seam that attaches it to the body of the gi to the outer edge. That will give it enough body to do what it needs to do. Also, some gis repeat this at the sleeve hem.

You need waist ties inside a gi. You need a tie on the inside waist on the left and a matching one on the outside of the right front. (that's so the top can wrap left over right. If yours needs to wrap right over left, adjust accordingly) You can put them on the outside for the other side, but the obi (belt) should keep that side shut on its own.

All your construction (with the exception of attaching the collar) needs to be either a French seam or a flat felled seam. If you choose a French seam, then press the allowance to one side and topstitch it in place. (so it looks like a mock flat felled seam.) You need this to be STURDY.

Remember to leave "vents" at the side seams towards the hem. It's a movement allowance thing. You just stop the seam about 2" above the hem, and finish the edges of the seam allowances there.

The KEY THING to remember is lots of ease!!! It needs to be a much looser fit than you first think. HUGE body movements will happen in this top. Take that into consideration when you are planning how big to cut it.

Pants......got any sweat pant patterns? You need an elastic waist with a drawstring. You want to put the drawstring on the Inside of the pants. Again LOTS of ease. The hem should probably fall just above the ankle bone. BUT!!! I would suggest you look around the dojo and see what length the other students have. For easiest movement....above the ankle bone, wide leg (no taper to the pant leg at all.)

If you want a breathable fabric (my best reason for making rather than buying.....most of the RTW are all poly....icky) a heavy weight linen or linen blend works really well. That's what I used for most of the stuff I did for my BIL.

HTH

Sharon

*1-- technically, the garment that I've found to be closest to what we call a gi is actually a han-juban. I haven't done searches for instructions for that. But it's basically a hip length kimono that crosses over and ties. ;)

one and

Thanks for reply. Since the existing patterns are about that same price point, it certainly is a viable option to consider. thanks for the link and idea robb

enough

sewing

> This tinyurl goes to the same page, in case that URL breaks:> > Beverly

Thanks Beverly, yes, roundearth, that was the one.... i typed roundend but roundearth is what i should have typed.

I looked through the group archive and sharon came up in almost every instance, lots of useful stuff there

Thanks again for the help and links . robb

I think that a pre-graded flat-felled seam with three rows of topstitching would do the job. I wear clothing with only two rows of topstitching for gardening and cycling, and the main fabric gives out before the seams do.

Thread selection would matter a lot. I buy six-ply crochet cotton (DMC Cordonnet #100) because all current sewing cottons are only three ply, and wear out quickly.

Joy Beeson

Sharon is the Queen of Gi. ;-)

You're welcome.

Beverly

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Thanks Sharon, Yes, that helps greatly.

i also am interested in comfort and fit which greatly affects the price of the RTW/OTS Gi.

In the archives i think you mentioned using a guset in the pants for the flexible movement and strength. Do you think that is still in order if i were to use a sweat pant or scrubs type pattern ?

Besides heavy linen is there any other fabric that you would consider as an ok-good substitute ? I was thinking maybe some soft duck or bleached/white denim ? the Gi online sales places also talk aout 6-8-10-12 oz fabrics used in their Gi. Have any advice on weight ?

another interesting modification i ran across was inserting panels of some breathable fabric like (? AirLite ?) across the back shoulder and inserting 2 inch wide strips along the outer leg seams and from the armpit down to the waist. Have you heard of, seen or done anything like that ?

I am guesing the ties on the inside can not be replaced with velcro ?

unfortuneately this will be for a young child so that just makes it all the more difficult in the way of scale or rather re-scaling.

thanks again for the help and ideas , robb

It is absolutely REQUIRED. My son does judo and tae kwon do, and you really need that. The last thing you want to hear when doing a kick is a big RIIIIIPPPPP sound from the seam splitting.

You need to ask at your martial arts school. I do not think they would want you to use linen. Is this gi for an adult or a child? If for a child, you could get away with lighter-weight material, but if for an adult karate gi, you probably want 8 or 10 oz fabric -- 10 oz is a relatively lightweight denim.

Again, ask your martial arts studio what they will and will not allow, or you will end up making something you will not be allowed to wear.

Is there some reason why you want to make the gi instead of just buying the $16.50 one at ebogu.com? They will grow out of it altogether too fast.

Scaling it up or down shouldn't be hard, though -- they are very basic patterns.

just buying

altogether too

Thanks Samantha, for the all the helpful advice and suggestions.

main reason for sewing a gi would be ... i like to sew and i like to sew new and different projects to learn about the craft in general, especially with simpler style projects. Also the Nature of my beast leads me to immerse myself into whatever new thing i am interested in to learn all the various nuances... for instance, the gussets and the breathable panels, different types of non-traditional fabrics that might be better suitted for different martial art forms or events etc...

In this case the neccesity for sturdy construction, comfort and freedom of movement inside a garment made of very stiff or non-stretchy material is interesting. I have already learned lots of new things about martial arts uniforms like the variety of styles that differ between different martial arts forms usually dependent on the types of movements that are made etc

as simple as the uniforms are they are new to me.

i will likely purchase a reasonably priced uniform from the school in support of the school and maybe make something later for fun or as a spare or when outgrown etc...

Thanks again for all the helpful info and advice robb

Got it.

You can copy a pattern from what you buy. You don't need to buy a separate pattern. Then just take your child's measurements and the pattern measurements for a point of reference and simply add length and height as needed to the pattern you clone as he/she grows. Then all you have to worry about is a belt.

I am not sure about karate schools, but for tae kwon do my son is required to wear a dobok (sp? -- it's what the tae kwon do uniform is called) with a screenprint of the schools logo on the back, and the karate school could possibly require the same. For judo, he only has to have sewn-on badges, and apart from the fact that I will never find the fabric they make the jackets out of, that would make it lots easier to make a copy of.

I'd love to clone my son's dobok top pattern and make him a longer one

-- he is 6 feet tall -- but he now has a special uniform since he got his black belt, and it would be that much more noticeable if one I made didn't look perfect, so I have given up on the idea.

Yes. But even if you started with a costume pattern, as long as you make sure there is plenty of ease, and you make sure your construction methods are STURDY, you're fine. You only need the pattern pieces for the shape of them.

Well, that's going to be up to you. We're talking about a young child just starting out and didn't you say karate? You are going to have to look at what the child will be doing. For beginning karate, you're not talking about a lot of HUGE body movements. So you might be OK. Remember LOTS OF EASE. See if you can borrow a pair of pants from the dojo. Look and see what they did on those. Copy, copy, copy.

Remember this is for a child. If you use duck, it's going to be very heavy, as in the actual weight of the garment. (picturing the child unable to do a front snap kick because the pants weigh so much...) The linen I have used is a very heavy, tight weave. I'm not talking shirt linen here. What made it so nice was that it BREATHES. Denim would be fine. Remember, you are making this for a child, no one will be tossing this child around the dojo any time soon. I wouldn't use more than a 10 oz bleached denim. Or a 10 oz cotton twill.

You want sturdy. But honestly, it doesn't have to be cast iron. 1. the child may not stick with karate for long. 2. this is a beginning student, the really rough stuff won't start in the dojo for a long while. 3. kids grow FAST.

Uh...... Ick. I suppose it would be comfortable. But, keep in mind the folks I know are sticklers for Tradition, why not just wear a sweatsuit from wal-mart instead of a gi?? Remember natural fibers are breathable. Stay away from polyester and you will be fine.

No. Would you like to have velcro rubbing on your waist??? Ow!!! And ties won't come undone like velcro will.

Then don't buy a pattern. Use the instructions I gave you. Those just require measuring and drafting to suit. That's really the best way to go on stuff like this anyway. Just remember to add Lots of Ease.

Sharon

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i understand your rationale and i believe you ... but you speak from experience and I am a mere grasshoppa. however, one can not ignore that there are many aspects of garment construction that a **costume** pattern will skip, delete, embellish or ignore. in this case the stiffening of the collar , adding gussets, coat ties, the proper length of coat, the overlap of right and left front coat flaps, reinforcing the pant and sleeve hems and so on.

and since i am not *yet* knowledgeable in those areas i try to avoid those troubles

[trim] ?

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bleached denim.

I did not poo-poo the linen, i think it would be a great fabric maybe for an advanced martial artist and some reading on one of your links shows that linen is a traditional fabric.

I was just thinking of a %100 cotton fabric but again i do not have the fabric repertoire to readily realize a good choice or alternatives. When i looked at a Gi it seemed like some medium to heavy but soft, flexible like a finely woven material but i have no name for it. Some 7 oz cotton twills i looked at may just the thing to try. Thanks for the suggestion.

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these styles are sold on a martial arts equipment web store ? The idea of coolness and breathability seem to make some sense as summer quickly approaches and we are very hot in summer so i thought i would ask.

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got it.

makes

Those just

way to go

i like the instructions you gave a link to i was planning to try it with some muslin for fun and practice.

thanks again for the help Sharon robb

You do not want twill. It is not a durable fabric and will get skinned up easily. Find a good solid poplin. It comes in broadcloth-weight and in a heavier weight. I am sure fabric.com would have it.

Or take your child's gi to the fabric store, f>

I know you weren't poo pooing it. ;) And you're right, for a serious, advanced martial artist, it's worth investing in the linen. For the munchkin just starting out...not so much. ;)

If you want a twill, look for the heaviest they have at the fabric store. (none of it is likely to be as heavy as a stout denim.) Then buy extra and shrink it like crazy. You want to tighten it up as much as possible. For a child, just starting out, that should be a fine fabric choice. Beginning karate usually starts with learning to fall properly, then running through (a million times) how to punch and kick. There shouldn't be any throws in a beginning class. It's not judo, so there won't be much grappling. It should be fine for now.

There are lots of things that get sold in online martial arts stores. A lot of them are good suppliers. But there are also the flea market type stores too. Like I said too, the folks I sew this type of stuff for are very Traditional. But to me, the most important part of martial arts is that tradition. That's the part that teaches self discipline, etc. Anyway...

The other good reason to stick with 100% cotton or other natural fibers is the very fact that you will SWEAT in these clothes. They are white, and they are natural fibers. That means WHEN they get truly gross, they can go in the washer with some bleach. This part of the country, I know hot and humid very well (and my BIL's dojo is in New Mexico. Talk about hot!)

100% cotton you can bleach repeatedly just fine. Polys don't bleach well.

You're welcome. If you run into trouble as you go along, let me know. Too, a fairly good resource for this is Make Your Own Japanese Clothing by John Marshall. I will warn you, you have to flip back and forth in the book a lot and he doesn't use a lot of Western sewing terms. He does describe each method well though. So it's not hard to figure out what he's talking about. For what you want, if you use the jimbei top instructions, that will get you close. when you see it, it will be obvious that you don't want the decorative stitching. You want to use a flat felled seam to attach the sleeves and (if you can) sew the underarm seams. Other than that, it's pretty close to the top you want. Roundearth carries the book. Pretty sure that's where I got my copy.

Sing out if you need help as you go along.

Sharon