Resizing patterns

I have just received Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit and am working slowly and carefully through some of the pattern alteration and resizing techniques. I seem to have struck a small snag.

The ideal bodice top size for me is 18. But I am only 5 feet tall with a high bust measurement of 38" and a 40" waist and 38" hips, so you can imagine my dilemma. My shoulder width measurement is 5" and size 18 is 6". The ideal back measurement for me is somewhere between 14 and 16.

I have a slight forward protruding neck, which I have previously adjusted by lifting the front shoulder by half an inch and cutting the equivalent off the back - and then adjusting the necklines to suit.

When I need to slash the pattern to increase for my full bust should I make the other adjustments first?

Daisy.

Don't assume malice for what stupidity can explain.

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Daisy
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