I have been using the formula outlined by Nancy Zieman in "Fitting Your Figure" - a Taunton Press publication, with a number of excerpts on this subject from Threads. I have just altered a pattern using the pivot method she uses after previously measuring all the necessary bits on the chart in the book.
The formula and the fitting works very well except for my necklines - all of which gape to a greater or lesser extent depending on the type of neckline. (No gaping with V-neck of course!) I like a reasonably high round neckline - I think it is called a jewel neckline. I never have any problems with necklines when using knit fabrics.
My shoulders are square and NOT broad - and most patterns seem to be of the right shoulder width. I am high-busted and I allow for that in the pattern alteration. I am wondering if my short neck and narrowish width across the upper chest area are the problems. I am also rather fleshy in the upper back (not a hump - well not yet anyway!) and most back bodice patterns for me are a size 12. I can sometimes adjust the gape at the neckline by lifting the front shoulder seam up at the neck edge. But I don't think this is the correct thing to do.
According to Nancy's formula my correct pattern size should be 14. Since I am a 37 inch bust, I have to enlarge 3 inches from a size 14 to cope with this. I am also short-waisted, but this is easily adjusted.
Does anyone know which step I should take next please to help with these ill-fitting necklines? I'd appreciate it.
TigsNona