Pattern alteration question

The impression that it's a tent could also be due to the fabric... drapeable fabric in size T will look smaller on you than fabric with more body in size T. The converse holds true, too... a pattern designed for a fabric with more body will look cheap-and-skimpy made up in a much drapier fabric.

Is the neck also way too big? I'd guess that's probably true from your solution on the garment. If so, that will work if you true up the neckline. Otherwise, I'd take it out in several places along the width of the pattern.

My experience is that most of the Big 3 pattern companies produce patterns that seem somewhat random in their size designations. I'd much sooner work with KwikSew, Stretch and Sew or Burda, just because of consistency. A small "wardrobe" of basic patterns in the silhouettes you like can be a great basis for a real world wardrobe. Or at least you can drop the basic pattern on top of the new pattern and see what's different in sizing, and if you like the new pattern based on that.

Borrow a neckline that will fit you from a well-drafted pattern. You, like many other people, have been victimized by over-grading. Most pattern companies take their sample size and grade it up to size whatever, adding (if I recall correctly) 1/8" width at the neckline and 1/4" width at the shoulder seam per size. People's necks don't get that much bigger when they get rounder. For sure, their shoulder bones don't get larger.

Vogue/Butterick were one for many years....

What's the pattern number you used? It's really quite easy to do a bit of minor redrafting for style on a pattern that is properly drafted and well-engineered. A lot easier than redrafting one with details you like and is totally mis-sized. KS and S&S don't look like very stylish patterns, but they're wonderful basics patterns... make them up in great fabrics (even as they come out of the envelope) and they'll look much better than the pictures on the patterns.

Kay

Yep, that's what it looked like- entertainingly, though the sleeves were just right for me, they would probably have been way too small for someone with as large a waist at this pattern seemed to expect...

While they do seem to be owned by the same company, I discovered to my great annoyance when ordering this pattern from their web site that you cannot combine Butterick and Vogue orders. Grr!

3943, but not from their regular line- from their discount "extra easy" line, See and Sew.

Interestingly, I have so far found with my drafting experinces that I am better at resizing than at understanding how a certain curve will give me a certain silouette or shape of armhole. At some point I will be able to afford to buy some of the fitting/drafting books recommended here, and then maybe that will change.

Heh- I've never thought of myself as looking for "stylish" clothes- I don't follow fashions at all- but I like things that are more shaped and fitted than the square way the Stretch and Sew patterns look on the envelopes. Moreover, the drawn models all seem to have big boxy shoulders and large shoulder pads... and shoulder pads look awful on me. :)

Thanks again, Courtney

I'm trying to picture this, and I'm failing to understand how this will affect/help the shoulders. I'm happy with the width of the fabric that sits on my shoulders, I think; simply moving the armscye in until it actually sits in the right spot on my body causes the shoulders to look fine. If I understand you correctly, what you're suggesting would narrow the pieces of fabric that sit on my shoulders- is that correct?

I will, espcially since I've started this adventure with a cotton ribknit with lots of body and will move next to a polyester knit that's so drapey it droops. :)

Actually, given that I've never used a poly knit like this before and I started with a very different knit, are there any anticipatory changes you recommend? (...besides getting the damn thing to fit properly in the first place, of course.) This is going to be the exact dichotomy that Kay mentioned and that you are cautioning me about.

Thank you, Courtney

Pattern alteration question Group: alt.sewing Date: Sat, Aug 23, 2003,

I've had two full prices Simplicity patterns in the last year that did this! I measured carefully and cut out the pattern according to the 'correct' size for measurements: I cut at least 8" out of each garment to get them to fit! Hopeless! I won't be buying from them again!

The best way to get round it that I can see is to 'tissue fit' the pattern: pin it together and pin it on you - you will need a sacond person for this! Take it in where needed, draw lines on it where you take it in, and trace it off to use rather than cutting the pattern: that way you have the original in tact for referring to should you need to! Don't forget to add seam allowances to your traced copy!

I understand now. The shoulders overall were too wide, but when I read your message I had already altered the rough draft shirt by taking it in in one tuck down the middle, and I was thinking "but it looks fine on! Why would I make the fabric over the shoulders narrower?"

When I went to transfer my changes to the pattern it all made sense again. Momentary brain error. :)

That's an excellent point, and on the strength of your recommendation I've decided to use the other fabrics I picked up for this pattern first and leave that one for later or something else. (I have a textured double knit in shades of purple and black with gold silkscreened accents, burgundy stretch velvet, and dark plum stretch velvet. :)

Thanks, Courtney

Excellent suggestions. I've been tracing all my patterns anyway, since I tend to buy a pattern and then make 5 identical garments from it in different fabrics. :) I use clear plastic film and a sharpie; durable and easy to alter if I need to. This also allows me to not cut the original tissue and not lose any information on multisize patterns.

At this point, the black one that I did all the fitting with is finished and looks good (even though it's not exactly what the pattern shows :), and I have another that came out perfectly in the purple textured knit I mentioned in a previous post. Now I can run off several more in quick succession. :)

Thanks again for all the help and advice.

Courtney