how to grade patterns?

Dear Kitty,

I am a retired professor--Director of two fashion design programs, and I taught at four institutions. I preferred teaching fit, rather than grading, because grading, as done in industry does not work.

Think about a patternmaking program if you have many clients. If you sew just for your family, purchase patterns that fit the armhole best (this is the most difficult area of the body to fit). Then look at some books at the library on fitting. Industry uses a grading system that changes patterns in several places in 1/8-inch increments. Two of these areas are the armhole and the shoulder--two places where people usually don't gain weight. So, when one looks at RTW the shoulders and armholes are usually way too big.

ALWAYS make a muslin before cutting into your good fabric.

Teri

wrote

I have taken pattern adjustment and fit in college +25 yrs ago. Remember some things but no longer have the books. Maybe a good fit book it what I really need. I want to increase the size of vintage patterns. Most of the goodies out there on ebay are sz 10. I have not been a sz 10 since college. IMO, pattern sizes seem smaller than RTW clothes. Anyway, can anyone recommend a good book or web site?

Kitty

I had a nearly identical discussion about this awhile back and was also convinced that grading was definitely not the way to go. Vintage patterns are wonderful but the available ones are mostly pretty small. I've been upgrading my fitting and pattern re-drafting skills too. I'm especially fond of the Helen Joseph Armstrong book, though it is pricey, "Patternmaking for Fashion Design". I have the third edition but there is a 4th available. She also has one on draping but I do not have it. Other good books on fitting and pattern alteration are:

"Fast Fit" by Sandra Betzina "Fit for Real People", Palmer & Pletsch "Fitting Finesse" by Nancy Zieman

They all have different methods and that's good because alternatives are useful.

Phae

"Phaedrine" wrote

Thanks for the suggestions. I will keep this list and look for these books. There is a cheapo on ebay called "Pattern Adjustment". It is a Better Homes & Gardens publication from the 60s. I know that is old, but does anyone know if this book is worth buying for a few bucks?

Dear Kitty,

The Armstrong book is a traditional college textbook, and is more than likely available at your library. I have a couple of copies, I think of the third edition. There were serious errors in the first edition, that were pointed out and corrected in subsequent editions. Where are you? Perhaps I could send you one of my copies. I've pretty much memorized it and won't be needing it anymore.

Teri