how to orient stretch materials for odd shapes and curves ?

Err, no help directly on your problem, but I've had some success using a soft kid material for doll shoes. I used a fairly narrow silk bias binding around the top of the shoe, hand stitched in place.

Thinking about the size, have you considered checking at your local library, see if they can get hold of a book on making doll shoes? I'm guessing at that age the shoes will be more for covering than for walking, so doll style shoes might fit the bill.

How about running a cord through the binding or rolled hem, then pulling it into shape and sewing down the ends of the cord, or leaving tails to make a bow over the instep? But remember if these are for infants, that they will get kicked off and/or go into the mouth.

length i

orientation

is

like

the

success using a

bias binding

local

shoes? I'm

for walking,

Thanks Richard,

yes they are for covering but i intend for them to be functional as well. stylish but functional shoes for early walker/cruisers. I am essentially just trying to make stylish soft sole shoes and I want the sole to protect the bottom of the feet.

I am experimenting with different materials and designs etc., different things from leather to a durable poly/vinyl etc

I'll look for the book, Thanks again robb

length i

orientation

is

like

the

then pulling

tails to

infants, that

Thanks Joanne,

by cord would #10 knitting thread count as cord ? or is there some other cord you were thinking ?

also if i am using a rolled hem foot , can i feed the cord through the foot as i am having some difficulty getting that to go through. maybe i need to think about where it sould go through.

I'll be cheating ? a bit ? with some elastic inside casing around te ankle part to impede any kick offs :)

thanks for help robb

Try looking for rat-tail cord. Good haberdashery suppliers will have it. It's a very fine cord, 2mm diameter (less than 1/8") and you can get it in various colours. I've just recently bought some for the lacing on a doll corset.

Another look-for, a flexible bodkin. One of my really good purchases when I spotted it, wouldn't be without it. It's a length of fine wire with a tiny smooth plastic bobble on one end and a closable loop on t'other that feeds easily through narrowish casings. I use mine a lot when it comes to making the soft parts of doll bodies, they are tied around the edge of the porcelain body parts. One thing to bear in mind, if you've any seams in the casing they can be a bit problematic when it comes to threading. It's oh-so easy to get the end of the bodkin trapped behind the seam allowance. BTDTGTTS,

I'm not sure what a #10 knitting thread is. I'm more familiar with such descriptions as 2/24, 2/12, and the cottons that are the reverse of that. It would depend a lot on what the fiber content is, too. I think maybe perle cotton might be good, or a fine nylon cord like that used for Roman shades. I use both of those for separating knitting on my machine. They're strong, but fine.

to

with such

reverse of

I think

that used

on my

oops sorry Joanne,

I should have said size 10 crochet thread. it looks like heavy kite string but it is mercerized cotton.

I have a variety of nylon strings around. i'll give those some experimentation too.

thanks again, robb

top

something

either

direction.

leaving

have it.

can get it in

on a doll

to

purchases when I

with a tiny

that feeds

comes to making

the

seams in the

threading. It's oh-so

allowance.

Thanks again Richard, Sounds like something i could fashion out of steel guitar string (fine, strong and stiff) if i can't find it in any of our woeful stores.

maybe a small round loop on one end, maybe even just a long piece with a bend and a twist to create a loop

Thanks for the ideas , robb

Nah, ain't worth the effort. The commercial thing costs $2-3 only. Google for flexible bodkin, I found quite a few US stores selling them.

I think I found mine at either Hancock's or our local Mill End store. I am a gadget junkie.

Dear Robb,

I remember we discussed your shoes some time ago. I would put the most stretch across the width of the shoe. Finishing the upper edges could also be done with a lining. Since you're using doubleknit, I would use a lighter weight knit, such as lingerie knit. Richard's suggestion of bias is also excellent. I, too, make doll shoes frequently, and because they are so small, the easiest way to finish them is with a lining. I have recently begun foxing my shoes, and have excellent results with this. I can't remember if we discussed this before, but foxing is done with cardboard for my doll shoes; to make them washable on your toddler shoes, you could use plastic or stiff interfacing, and would glue the foxing to the uppers well above the seam allowance that is gathered around the inner sole at the front and at the heel. The pattern shapes for these pieces are made from the upper pattern, sans seam allowances, and a heel pattern that follows the seamline at the lower edge to be gathered around the innersole, and curved at the top. Examine a regular shoe and I think you can see these shapes.

Teri

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Richard's

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think

Thanks Teri,

yes, your memory serves you well. my last set of questions had to do with making basic shoe patterns and how to fit the curves or pattern the curves that get sewn together without bunching . I was using woven fabrics (not stretchy)

Now i am experimenting with different shoe styles/designs (like ballet shoes) and using stretchy fabrics and i was having trouble with tightly curved seam finishes. Since the seams were highly visible i was a little more particular with the seam finish.

thanks again robb