How to sew badges onto a lined jacket and not stitch through the lining? (2023 Update)

The customer for whom I am "removing old/sewing on new" arm badges on a dozen or so shirts is very pleased with the ones I've done to date. I just received the 2nd batch of laundered shirts.

Now they have asked me if I would be able to 'remove old/sew on new' badges on some jackets they have.

What puzzles me is the badges and how to remove the old ones and put on the new ones. The jackets are completely lined and the naturally the badge stitching does not go through both the sleeve and the lining.

But I see no obvious way that whoever put on the badges could have put them on --- unless they did it at the time the jackets were made, as the sleeves.

Anything I think of -- such as opening a seam to get to the jacket arm, and then sewing it back up on the machine -- is going to result in a not-as-nice looking result because stitching will be visible.

Might anyone here with more experience in these matters have any suggestions?

-Irene

Reply to
IMS
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Sewing badges onto a lined jacket can be a bit tricky, especially if you don't want to stitch through the lining. This can cause the lining to become visible and can also create holes in the lining, which can be unsightly. However, with a few tips and tricks, you can sew badges onto your lined jacket with ease, without having to worry about damaging the lining.

Choosing the Right Needle and Thread

The first step to sewing badges onto your lined jacket is to choose the right needle and thread. For a lined jacket, it is important to use a needle that is thin and sharp, such as a universal needle. This will help you avoid damaging the lining, as well as make it easier to sew through the fabric.

When it comes to thread, it is best to choose a strong and durable thread, such as polyester or nylon. This type of thread is less likely to break or become tangled, and will hold up well against the elements, such as wind and rain.

Preparing the Badges and Jacket

Before you start sewing your badges onto your lined jacket, it is important to prepare both the badges and the jacket. First, lay your jacket flat on a clean, flat surface and make sure that the lining is smoothed out. Next, place your badges in the desired position and pin them in place.

It is also important to make sure that your thread is long enough to complete the entire sewing process. If necessary, cut a new piece of thread and knot it to one end. This will make it easier to thread your needle and will ensure that your thread does not become tangled during the sewing process.

Sewing the Badges

Once your badges and jacket are prepared, you can start sewing your badges onto the jacket. To do this, insert your needle through the fabric and lining of your jacket, making sure to avoid stitching through the lining. It may be helpful to use a thimble to help push the needle through the fabric and lining.

When you have reached the other side of the fabric and lining, pull the thread through and knot it securely. Repeat this process until all of your badges are attached to your lined jacket.

Finishing Touches

Once all of your badges are sewn onto your lined jacket, it is important to give your jacket a final inspection. Make sure that your thread is secure and that the lining is not visible. If necessary, use a needle and thread to make any necessary repairs or adjustments.

Conclusion

Sewing badges onto a lined jacket may seem like a daunting task, but with a few tips and tricks, you can do it with ease. By choosing the right needle and thread, preparing your badges and jacket, and taking your time when sewing, you can have a lined jacket that is both stylish and functional. So why not give it a try today and see for yourself just how easy it can be?
Reply to
Crafty

First, do the customers *care* whether or not the stitching shows on the lining? If not, you could very carefully line up the two layers of fabrics and apply the badges through the whole sandwich. But be *very careful* about lining the outer and lining fabrics up, even a small misalignment will pull the fabric out of line.

If they *do* care, how is the lining attached at the hem of the sleeves? If its stitched 1/2" short of the outer fabric, it would be fairly easy to unpick the stitching, sew on the badge and then hand stitch the lining to the sleeve, and it would never to show. (Well maybe to *me*, but I'm not the one you're doing this for.)

If the jackets have a cuff, then that won't work. If you unpick the underarm seam of the *lining* several inches, you will be able to apply the badges, then either machine or hand sew the opening closed. In either case, it would be a fairly picky customer who would even know how you had done it.

Beverly

Reply to
BEI Design

That's a good quesiton! I never thought to ask them if it would be an issue if the stitching shows on the lining. I will. (It would sure make things easier.) You're right about lining the fabrics up, of course. I'll check with them about it.

The jackets do have a cuff, so I'll use your suggestion about the underarm seam of the lining if they are picky about whether or not it shows.

Thanks so much for the feedback on thsi, Beverly.

-Irene

Reply to
IMS

I am not qualified to input on the procedure but I think sewing the lining to the sleeve would make in uncomfortable. The linings like to move about freely and when you sew it in it will be com restrictive. Just my couple a pennies

Reply to
Ron Anderson

You always have good pennies, Ron. ;) I was going to mention this too. Not just that it impedes the way the lining moves. But if you use invisible thread on the right side of the badge (only thing I put them on with. Color matching thread in the bobbin. Invisible in the needle) it can be pokey/scratchy too. I use regular thread in the bobbin, like I said, and that lessens that. But you do sometimes get that one or two stitches' worth of invisible thread that works through to the inside after a few washings or wearings. Then it will poke. The lining will serve as a barrier to that happening.

I loathe and despise taking apart the lining to put on patches. So I charge a lot more for it. ;)

It is sometimes easiest (even w/o a cuff wrist) to open the lining at the shoulder. What I usually do is open it clear out across the top of the shoulder/armscye. That way I can normally get the free arm of the machine in there so I can get at the top of the sleeve to put the patch on. Unless the patches are on the forearm of the jacket, this is much easier. And, pretty easy to hide the hand stitching when you put the lining back together. ;)

Sharon

Reply to
Sharon Hays

I'd either do it by hand (only if the badges don't have that wretched plastic coating on the back) or split the seam and get in that way.

However, has anyone lifted the old patches to see if the jacket has faded? Particularly if the new patches are not exactly the same size and placement as the old?

Kay

Reply to
Kay Lancaster

Well, that's a good point, Ron! I thank you for raising it. All the more reason for me to ask them about it. Thanks for the feedback.

-Irene

Reply to
IMS

Sharon, Thanks for outlining the method you would do -it is much appreciated. It sounds easier, too, than what was going through my mind :)

And thanks for pointing out about charging more...it is gong to be more work, that's for sure.

-Irene

Reply to
IMS

Alas, they do have the wretched coating :) Thank goodness for my trusty old Viking 6570 - with the reduction gear enabled, that machine will sew through anything I can fit under the foot!

The jackets are like new, and the new patches are exactly the same size as the old, and will go in the same place. That's one of the things making this job a little easier :)

Thanks for the input, Kay.

-Irene

Reply to
IMS

When I was in the Army in the 50's I glued all of my patches on class A's with linings with no problems at all. I even glued them on unlined fatigues. Today I'd do the same thing, but would use the iron-on adhesives available and that would be even faster/easier.

JPBill

Reply to
Bill Boyce

So glad to help, Irene. And always remember to charge more when there is more work involved. ;) Let us know how it turns out ok?

Sharon

Reply to
Sharon Hays

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