1. Home
  2. Sewing Discussions
  3. Sleeve caps

Sleeve caps

Hello All!

I have a question about sleeve caps for a set-in sleeve. I have a rolled shoulder and needed to move the shoulder seam on my bodice forward 1 inch. At the moment I'm working on the muslin and this is for my son's wedding on June 10th. Time is running out!

I've basted the sleeve in and it looks horrible! How do I adjust the sleeve cap to match up to the new shoulder seam? I have it on my dress form now and it appears to have too much fabric (on the sleeve) between the center "dot" and the front notches and not quite enough fabric ease on the back between the notches and the center dot. The couple of pattern fitting books I have only tell me how to deal with the length or width of a sleeve, not what to do with the cap after the shoulder seam has been moved. I'm having nightmares that the sleeves will rip out when I (5' 2") try to dance with my 6' 3" son! Thanks for all your help.

Liz W

Reply to
Liz W
Loading thread data ...

Move the dot the same distance and direction that you moved the shoulder seam.

Joy Beeson

Reply to
Joy Beeson

What's happening to the sleeve's grainline now? It should be perpendicular to the floor. I suspect it's now pointing somewhere behind you. Is that true?

When you moved the seamline, did you change the shape of the armscye? Will the sleeve walk into the new armscye? How much ease does it have?

Reply to
Kay Lancaster

It used to be that the "shoulder" seam was set back, slightly behind the shoulder, running from a bit behind the side-neck center down diagonally over the shoulder blade to about 9 o'clock on the armhole. So it could not be seen from the front at all. This was, of course, in the late

19th and early 20th centuries. IMHO, a modified version of this might be a better option than pulling the shoulder seam forward and emphasizing that one's shoulder(s) roll forward. And Kay makes such a good point about the need to have the sleeve hang perpendicular to the floor. So wherever that line from the floor, running up the center of the sleeve (the lengthwise grainline) hits the shoulder area is where the center of your sleeve should be, no matter where you decide to put the "shoulder" seam.
Reply to
Phaedrine

I'd like to thank all of you for your wonderful suggestions. The grain line does seem to be a problem so after I hit "send" on this message I'll be trying to put the sleeve back in with great care taken to the line. I just received a copy of "Coutur Sewing Techniques" by Claire Shaeffer. There is a chapter devoted to sleeves. I'll read that too.

Liz W

Reply to
Liz W

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.