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suit jacket confusion

I've taken the plunge, and the linen suit project is well underway. Of course I can't just do the simple thing and follow the instructions, nooooo, I have to make improvements, and now I'm mightily puzzled.

I'm using Vogue 2853, a snazzy little Anne Klein number:

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'm doing it in a light blue-green linen which I've laundered because Ilike it better that way, even though the suit will be dry-clean. Armed with my copy of 'Classic Tailoring Techniques' I set about ignoring the instruction to fuse interfacing to all the jacket pieces and substitute a more, well, tailored approach.

Problem is, the instructions for making the canvas front don't exactly work with the pattern, because of the dart that ends in the pocket. The tailoring book assumes a body dart that is pointed at both ends, but this one just ends and full width in the pocket slash, then the lower part of the jacket is cut narrower. you can't really sew the dart without slashing the pocket, whereas the tailoring book wants you to wait to cut the pocket till the front side piece is stitched on.

That would be way easier, I've already got one pair of fronts with wrinkles around the pockets. I'm ready to scrap those and try again - I've got plenty of extra fabric. I'm wondering if there is a way to stitch the dart and slash the pocket after, with the welts in and all.

My other source of confusion is more general. I went with silk organza interfacing for the back pieces (I just love that stuff!) and it is perfect

- crisp and lightweight. If I use the canvas in the front, the front, I'm afraid the front and back will be too different, and If I use the canvas in addition to the organza, it will be too heavy in front, but the organza by itself probably won't do the job.

I guess what I really want is something in between the easy RTW approach of the pattern instructions, but not quite so built up as the fully traditional tailored route. Any good suggestions - especially for a favorite book that will help?

Oh well, worst comes to worst I can try it a couple of different ways and chalk it up to learning experience.

-Liz

Reply to
Liz S. Reynolds
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Try using two layers of organza in the front for the additional support you need, and fusing them in place temporarily with basting spray. There is no reason why, doing this, you cannot make the pocket slash before doing the dart and attaching the welts and flap. Just run a line of machine basting round the placement lines (actually, a tad inside so they don't show later!) for the pocket before making the slash and the dart, so that the slash doesn't distort as you do all the other work.

Reply to
Kate XXXXXX

Dear Liz,

You really should have followed the directions and used fusible interfacing. When a pattern calls for the entire thing to be interfaced [underlined], the fusible tricot available about everywhere is the product of choice. The pocket has to have the dart in place before the welt is applied, because it takes up space that would otherwise make the hip too wide and the welt not wide enough.

I didn't like to use fusible interfacing until I did some experiments, and found that the only type that bubbled and gave a "home made" appearance was the Pellon types. I now use fusible hair canvas for some projects, and fusible tricot for many things. You need to do samples before using any interfacing on your project.

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

Oooh, never thought of that. I've got a can of stuff I use for machine embroidery to glue small items to the stabilizer for hooping. Sulky Temporary Spray Adhesive I think. Suitable?

Do you mean stablizing with the organza will make placing the welts and flaps into the already slashed pocket less error prone? That sounds eminently plausible. Woohoo, thank you, maam!

-Liz

Reply to
Liz S. Reynolds

Aha, and my bad experiences have been exactly with Pellon. I actually bought fusible tricot as per the instructions but I couldn't stand the way it felt. It just bothered me to be fusing this poly-whatsit to my lovely linen. Confessions of a fiber snob!

-Liz

Reply to
Liz S. Reynolds

Dear Liz,

The poly yucky feeling will go away after being fused. Just make sure that you (1) hold the iron (with steam) over the interfacing before attaching it. This is the way to shrink it before fusing and (2) fuse by pressing, not ironing, for the length of time prescribed by the manufacturer. I think you'll have an epiphany....

Teri

Reply to
gjones2938

I share your reluctance to use a fusible on light linen for several reasons. It will likely change the hand considerably. The (usually) synthetic fusible doesn't breathe, making warm weather garments hot and uncomfortable. Even when applied exactly as instructed, too many things can cause the fusible to ruin a garment including less than careful treatment at the dry-cleaners. I tend to use it only when it will not show and where the time and money investment is not too great. I use far more sew-in interfacings; that's just my personal preference.

Silk organza makes a very nice underlining for linen, minimizing the wrinkling.

Reply to
Phaedrine

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