i made a muslin of a raglan shirt pattern with a contrast panel
on the both sides that goes from the arm pit down to the hem .
I did not like the fit completely,
the under arms had a bit too much slack and poof out (arms down)
the raglan sleeve line was a bit to steep and under shot my pit
by 1.5 inch or so.
and the contrast panel was a bit to subtle.
So, i drew new shape lines on the muslin,
i changed the sleeve line angle so thet raglan sleeve line aimed
at top of the pit (arms down).
i also redrew the front panel line to where i wanted it to follow
my general shape just along and the edge of the pecs then down
with slight flair out.
Problems come trying to transfer to the pattern.
1, transfered angle to the sleeve front/back and to the body
panels front and back.
add to body panel and remove from sleeve.
2. then transfered the re-shape lines to the front and back body
panels along the sides where it attaches to the side contrast.
3. altered the side contrast panel edges to add the part taken
away from the body panel's side reshaping and also adjust the
curve in the top of the side contrst panel where it will join to
the sleeve under the arm.
1. the armpit poof got worse pokes out from under the armpit
2. the sleeve does not match up with the arm hole, the sleeve
edge is about 2" longer than the edge it attaches to on the body
panels/side contrast panel. i tried to reshape the side contrast
panel but it really makes a deep U to take care of all that 2" of
extra length sleeve edge ?
3. The raglan sleeve angle line looks good
4. the body panel (front and back) reshape looks good/acceptable
4. the contrast panel went from too subtle to grotesquely
big/wide even though it does not appear to be so big on paper.
maybe i have not followed good sound pattern adjustment practices
any hints or tips on how to properly modify this raglan sleeve
thanks for any helpful ideas,
- posted 11 years ago