trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?

Hello all,
i made a muslin of a raglan shirt pattern with a contrast panel
on the both sides that goes from the arm pit down to the hem .
I did not like the fit completely,
the under arms had a bit too much slack and poof out (arms down)
the raglan sleeve line was a bit to steep and under shot my pit
by 1.5 inch or so.
and the contrast panel was a bit to subtle.
So, i drew new shape lines on the muslin,
i changed the sleeve line angle so thet raglan sleeve line aimed
at top of the pit (arms down).
i also redrew the front panel line to where i wanted it to follow
my general shape just along and the edge of the pecs then down
with slight flair out.
Problems come trying to transfer to the pattern.
1, transfered angle to the sleeve front/back and to the body
panels front and back.
add to body panel and remove from sleeve.
2. then transfered the re-shape lines to the front and back body
panels along the sides where it attaches to the side contrast.
3. altered the side contrast panel edges to add the part taken
away from the body panel's side reshaping and also adjust the
curve in the top of the side contrst panel where it will join to
the sleeve under the arm.
Problems,
1. the armpit poof got worse pokes out from under the armpit
more.
2. the sleeve does not match up with the arm hole, the sleeve
edge is about 2" longer than the edge it attaches to on the body
panels/side contrast panel. i tried to reshape the side contrast
panel but it really makes a deep U to take care of all that 2" of
extra length sleeve edge ?
3. The raglan sleeve angle line looks good
4. the body panel (front and back) reshape looks good/acceptable
4. the contrast panel went from too subtle to grotesquely
big/wide even though it does not appear to be so big on paper.
maybe i have not followed good sound pattern adjustment practices
?
any hints or tips on how to properly modify this raglan sleeve
and shape.
thanks for any helpful ideas,
robb
Reply to
robb
Dear Robb,
It sounds to me like you altered the pattern, rather than altering a muslin. You can't do that--it never turns out right. Make a muslin from the original pattern, sew it together with basting stitches so it's easy to pull apart, then make all your alterations on the muslin. Don't transfer these marks from the muslin; sew any that need sewing, and then use the muslin for your pattern. You'll get much better results.
Teri
Reply to
Teri
"BEI Design" wrote in message news:h0183r$3d2$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org...
Hello Beverly,
I am using this pattern (shirt only)
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i am trying to make the pattern a loose fit according to thesizing chart advice given at the bottom of the following pagefor having swimshirts fit more like a T-shirt than a surgicalglove.
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already went up two sizes in the pattern and if i go up morethen i may have to make more reduction adjustments to other areasrather than increase the width of the side panel on the size i amcurrently using. I could probably go without the otheradjustments (ragan angle and front panel shape ) *BUT* thats onereason i like to sew, to customize and make unique changes. Thanks for any helpful advice, robb
Reply to
robb
Is your muslin fabric "two-way stretch fabric with 75% stretch on the lengthwise grain"???
"The shirt, shorts and trunks are designed for two-way stretch fabric with 75% stretch on the lengthwise grain. We suggest using swimwear fabrics with spandex-Lycra¨. The men's pull-over, very close fitting shirt has short raglan sleeves and a collar."
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the saying "Trying to make a silk purse from a sows ear" strike a chord???
Disclaimer: I am not a big fan of KwikSew patterns. I have tried several and never yet been satisfied with the fit, drafting, or design.
That said, I would start over using this one of these or something similar:
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?tab=unisex_men_uniforms&page=1Sized for stretch knits, but not meant to be skin tight. It seems to me your desire to "...customize and make unique changes." often results in banging your head against a wall. Doesn't that hurt? After you have been sewing for 10+ years, you will likely find it somewhat easier to make major pattern alternations. ;-) This profile confirms my recollection that you first posted here just a couple of years ago:
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give yourself a little more time sewing *exactly as the pattern designers intended*, and THEN start tweaking the design elements.That included following the "suggested fabric types", etc. I don't know what fabric you are using, however, if you try to make a garment from a pattern created to utilize the properties of 75% stretch knits, but substitute a woven (or even a knit with less stretch), you are doomed to lots of frustration and/or failure. JMHO
Beverly
Reply to
BEI Design
altering a
muslin
stitches so
that need
much
Thanks Teri,
You are correct that i tried to transfer my muslin markings back to my pattern copy.
That is ... I made a pattern copy. i made a muslin. i made modifications/lines on the muslin and tried to transfer those markings back to my pattern copy and then make another muslin from the altered pattern.
i will try your suggestion out
thanks robb
Reply to
robb
"BEI Design" wrote in message news:h069ev$ijj$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org...
Thanks for the help Beverly,
i thought muslin was just a metaphor for a first pass sewing draft of a pattern. i am using this fabric for my muslin
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i plan to use this fabric in a different color.http://www.rockywoods.com/Welcome-to-Rockywoods-Outdoor-Fabrics/4-way-stretch-Sun-Blocker-Fabric-Lavender
I want to make a swim/rash guard shirt for some wave riding/boogie boarding and to provide some sun protection too. i thought starting with a swimwear style shirt pattern would be better or closer than trying to use a pajama or t-shirt pattern which is very loose.
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Does the saying "Trying to make a silk purse from a sows> ear" strike a chord???>
i think in my case a closer analogy would be. making a loose sow's ear from a tight sow's ear pattern.
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Sized for stretch knits, but not meant to be skin tight. It> seems to me your desire to "...customize and make unique> changes." often results in banging your head against a wall.> Doesn't that hurt? After you have been sewing for 10+ years,> you will likely find it somewhat easier to make major> pattern alternations. ;-)>
challenging activities have never stopped me from trying something as a learning experience and making mistakes has never scared me away from learning. as for learning i think people learn more from their mistakes
sometimes one has to bang on the wall to understand the wall and to know how challenging the wall really is.
I don't think i have tried to hide the fact that i just *stumbled* into sewing about two years ago. When id did start with even the tiniest sewing project i thought it was fun and i quickly look for the challenging aspects when i start any new hobby .
i do sew the straight patterns too but if i can not find a pattern that suits my project then what am i to do but find something close and try to alter ?
thanks again Beverly, for the helpful advice. robb
Reply to
robb
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should suit the suggested fabric for the pattern nicely.
I did not understand why you wanted to make major changes to what seemed to be a less-than-perfect choice of patterns. I also did not know that you WERE using a stretch fabric for you muslin.
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>> > Does the saying "Trying to make a silk purse from a sows> > ear" strike a chord???> >
;-) Agreed. However, then you say:
So I couldn't understand why you were using THAT pattern as it apparently did not meet your needs/requirements. Going up TWO SIZES and still not getting the desired result would send me off in an entirely different (vis-a-vis pattern selection) direction. But maybe that's just me. ;-)
But, pity the innocent wall.... ;->
I have to liken that to a desire my to race in the Indianapolis 500. Looks like a ton of fun! But no matter how many times I hit a wall or spin out or roll my vehicle, those challenges really are not going to qualify me for Memorial Day weekend. I will have to come up through the ranks and that means starting out on small local tracks, learning the vagaries of downshifting, exactly where and how fast to enter a turn, how to accelerate out of the curves, and learning all the other skills, a race at a time, over many months or years. Then maybe I'll be able to race the 500. Well, after finding deep pocketed sponsors....
;-)
Have you taken a class in pattern alteration? Or at a minimum stocked your library with some good books on the subject?
Robb, don't get me wrong. I admire your get-up-and-go CAN-DO attitude. I really do. Just once in a while I wonder why you have set yourself up to struggle so. This was one of those times.
You're welcome, carry on....
Beverly
Reply to
BEI Design
Does it have to be raglan? If not, there's a few options out there. I would think that a cycling jersey (Jalie 2216 , Green Pepper 402) would be good for this -- just cut the hem even. Or kwik sew 3570 .
Jalie 2212 has a nice fitted T-shirt -- should be easy enough to lengthen the sleeves.
Starting over might be easier than trying to get this one to work. Then again, if you're in it for the challenge.....
-- Jenn Ridley : snipped-for-privacy@newsguy.com
Reply to
Jenn Ridley

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