Velvet jacket for DGD

I just cannot cut into the velvet I ordered online, as there's probably no way to get more if something isn't quite right, so I am making a toile of some locally purchased blue velvet (it was relatively inexpensive and I have enough to make a jacket and a vest). I'll either give the toile jacket to DGD to have for a back-up (the color's "ok" with the new kilt tartan, just not as vibrant as the online velvet) or sell it to her teacher or online.

I spent the last week making adjustments to a commercial jacket pattern so that it meets the style and fit requirements of the Highland dance jacket. Today I cut out the toile velvet, cut hair canvas for each piece (excluding the sleeves), and mounted all the pieces, sewed the front and back princess seams, the CB seam and the shoulder seams. All seams are lightly pressed open.

I cut extra seam allowance in the side seams so that I can make further fitting adjustments if necessary and the side seams are machine basted. I'll get the two-part sleeves sewn together tonight, and machine baste them to the armscye.

DGD now has a removable cast and she's available tomorrow for a fitting, so with any luck I can tweak the pattern for any final adjustments and get going on the real jacket soon.

Beverly

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BEI Design
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The muslin sounds like a winner, Beverly. I am very happy to know she now has a removable cast. Emily

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Emily Bengston

The jacket body fits well, just needed a few tweaks. The biggest problem is going to be how to make the sleeves fit the jacket. She needs to be able to raise her arms high over her head. Many of the commercially made jackets insert a gusset about 2" wide at the widest point, in the armscye, starting at the mid back and continuing to the mid front. I'd like to come up with a better solution, because 1. it looks like c__p, and 2. it makes for a *very* bulky underarm area.

Hmmmm... I wonder if I can make an insert panel for the jacket side seam continuing up into the sleeve which would provide the needed ease and still look smooth. Kind of a vertical gusset. Guess I'll play around with that idea, I have lots of the toile velvet. I am hoping to meet with the lovely woman who mentored me through my first kilt, but she wasn't home today. I'm pretty sure she must have a solution, she makes jackets for many of the area dancers. I don't want to re-invent the wheel.

Beverly

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BEI Design

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