ARGH! Need help on a gusset or four

This is a bit difficult to describe without pictures, but I'll give it a try.

1. stitch a line of reinforcing stitches within the seam allowance on the piece which will have the gusset inserted *into* it. That is, stitch to the point, pivot and stitch back out to the edge.
2. slash the seam allowance *carefully* just to the point BUT NOT THROUGH THE LINE OF STITCHING.
3. place the gusset and the body piece (for lack of a better term) right sides together, lining up the seam allowance on each and matching the *slashed point* with the dot (or whatever mark you have made in the gusset) and pinning (or basting) ONLY ONE HALF OF THE SEAM, right up to the slashed point.
4. begin stitching the seam allowance BODY SIDE UPPER MOST, GUSSET PIECE AT THE BOTTOM.
5. when you reach the *point* leave the needle down, raise the presser foot, and pivot the gusset about 90 degrees, and pivot the body piece further around to match the new seam allowance on the second side, being very careful everything is smooth and excess fabric is out of the seam allowance..
6. complete the second half of the seam.

Hope that helps, I know it sounds weird, but leaving the second half of the seam unpinned/unbasted allows you to pivot the pieces with the needle down right at the corner, making for a smooth seam all the way.

If you can't visualize this, I'll try to get some pictures of the process and put them on the web.

Beverly

Dear Sue,

I have made martial arts garments for my son. I imagine they are made in a similar way to your Tai Chi garments. The gusset is a large square. Half of the square is sewn to the front body and front sleeve; the other two raw edges are sewn to the back body and sleeve. The folded center forms the diagonal underarm edge. This is a very old method in both the East and the West, and served for hundreds of years for shirts and chemises.

Teri

I *think* that makes sense. I've cut out several pieces that are just the armpit with its little wedge-shaped hole for the gusset and, of course, a similar number of gussets. I shall give your directions a try and keep my fingers crossed! I think you're saying basically the same thing my grandmother was, but a lot more clearly (or maybe it's because it's written down).

Thank you! I'll let you know if I get it to work!

Sue

Teri,

*nod* I found instructions for this on the web--an SCA member's site, I think. Unfortunately this is not the way these gussets work; they are actually going into wedge-shaped holes in the armpit area (which I think I forgot to put in my original post). Though if I am not able to make the others work before I start beating my head against the wall...I may try this way instead.

Thank you!

Sue

Dear Sue,

I've done this type of gusset, too. It was popular in tailored garments in the 1950s (I'm old). The most important part of this type of gusset is to stay-stitch it exactly on the stitching line before slashing. It helps to draw the stitching line on the gusset; otherwise, it won't fit when you try to sew it in. One usually doesn't want to begin sewing in the corner of a box, but in this case, it may be easier to do so.

If this doesn't work, there is another way to get it perfect. Cut a double set of gussets--one for inside, one for outside. Press in the seam allowances, and stitch it by hand into place. Use the second set of gussets to sew to the inside. This will hide all the raw edges. Good Luck!

Teri

I hope it does help. I finally developed this technique after *years* of frustration with gussets and other types of insertions. Just call out if you want some pictures.

Beverly

Thanks to you both! I did the stay-stitching, which enabled me to cut

*right* up to the corner, and things smoothed out nicely. I'm still not sure they're needed, but it doesn't matter so much now that I can do them acceptably.

Sue

Congratulations! One always needs to master new sewing skills/techniques. You will almost surely use it *sometime*. ;-)

Beverly