Fitting Pants

I use two methods of measuring the crotch length in pants. #1. Have the person sit in a straight back chair, such as a dining one. Measure from the waist line down to the top of the chair seat. #2. Measure the person by bringing the tape measure up between the legs from the back waist to the front waist. This measure then is divided in half for the front and back. Of course, some people with a big stomach may need a bit more in the front than the back. In that case, you might want to make the front a little longer than the back. It will be a good idea to make a muslin, that is for a sample: make a pair in scrap fabric, I use old sheets, pillowcases, etc for this; some people find cheap large remnants at a good price at the fabric stores. I find if I made a muslin for my children/grandchildren, it's not necessary to measure them each time I want to make something new, that is until I notice they were outgrowing the items. HTH, Emily

You'll need a couple of measurements for this. Both are taken by tying twill tape around his middle at the point where the bottom of the waistband is going to sit. Since 5 year olds are squirmy, I'd suggest then putting some stickers or a dot of ink on his skin at CF, CB and side seam/waistline intersections.

Crotch depth is determined by measuring from the side seam/waistline intersection over the hip and straight down to a flat, hard surface the child is sitting on... a table or a step is perfect for this.

Now take a look at your pattern: Draw in the seamlines for the crotch curve and the waistline and inseam. You'll notice that the seamline for the crotch curve near the inseam extends out at a 90 degree angle to the grainline markings on the pattern. Draw that line across the pattern to the outseam -- just a straight line perpendicular to the grainline at the level of the crotch extension.

The measurement you've just taken should be a little less than the distance from the waistband seamline to the line you just drew. How much less? That's a hard one for me to guesstimate -- I'd guess a minimum of an inch, but you can hone that fairly easily at the muslin stage.

Anyhow, fold out length from your pattern that's in excess of your crotch depth measurement + 1" -- I do it where it's least likely to make you re-true a seamline, which usually means right about the high hip position. (I do adult pants for both genders, so I'm a little iffy on ease needed in kids' patterns)

The second measurement you need for this is the total crotch length. What you want is the measurement from the CF/waistline intersection, through the legs, to the CB/waistline intersection. Add an inch to this. (Again, my best guesstimate for ease for a child -- and again, it can be change in the muslin fitting.)

Now measure the seamline of the front and back crotch curves -- this sum should be your total crotch distance. If your measurement is too big for the pattern, you can get some extra by scooping the (I'd guess front curve for this child) pattern's curve slightly.

Make up a muslin for the pattern now, marking in front and back grainlines, nominal waistline and adding an extra couple of inches of extra height at the waistline, so you can tuck the extra fabric under some elastic for fitting purposes. Fitting will be easier if you sew the two fronts together, the two backs together, and then the two side seams and the inseam. The typical pattern method of sewing the crotch curve front to back with one leg inside the other doesn't work nearly as well for fitting purposes.

Put them on the child, and pin the muslin to the elastic at CF, CB and side seams, and watch him walk and sit. If the crotch depth is not correct, the pants will look saggy or you'll see binding as he walks. Readjust at the waistline as needed.

Then watch when he sits down. If the CB of the pants dips down, he needs more crotch extension -- he's deeper front to back than the pattern allows for. Rip the crotch seam from inseam to inseam and insert a gusset that allows him to sit correctly.

If the crotch extension is too long for him, they'll look like clown pants, with extra fabric front and back. Resew the crotch from inseam to inseam taking out the extra.

Transfer the changes to the pattern.

Kay

Men's (boys') pants are measured different than women's. Establish the waistline with a piece of elastic tied around the child's waist. Measure from the elastic to the floor in three areas--center front, center back, and side seam. Now measure from the inside of the child's leg to the floor to establish the inseam. Use the longest outseam measurement to draft the pattern, or to measure on the pattern. The pattern should be purchased by the hip measurement; the waist is easily adjusted. Then make other changes to the pattern. And by all means do a muslin first. Only the front and back are necessary; you don't need pockets or waistbands. Use basting stitches to put it together, so it can be easily ripped. Pinch fabric, pin out--whatever is needed to give a good fit. Then rub all the seams with a wide marker to mark the seams. Rip it apart, cut off all the seam allowances, and sew in the pinches. Then use the muslin for the new pattern, adding the seam allowances back on. If you're happy with the result, use the muslin to make a new, permanent pattern for more pants. He'll love them!

Teri

I'm fitting a pair of muslin pants and I have wrinkles straight across the fabric at the back the crotch line. What do I need to do to remove these, add or subtract fabric?

Thanks, Andrea

Dear Andrea,

That means that the crotch is not deep enough. Rip out the top of the legs, where you sewed the "U" of the crotch curve. Rip the legs down to the knees (or thereabouts). Add a triangular piece about the width of the crease, tapering to nothing at the knee. Sew it back up. If this works, divide the triangle in half lengthwise, and redraw the inseam for front and back. Remember to add seam allowances to this piece when you make your permanent pattern, or cut the fashion fabric.

Teri