Pants Fitting Frustration

I share your pain, I think pants-fitting issues are the hardest. I finally got one right about twenty pounds ago, and I have graded the pattern several times, I just refuse to start over from scratch.

I finally took a pair of RTW which fit really well, and used them to adjust a commercial paper pattern. This might work for you if you have some pants which fit well. I think it works better than attempting to fit on your own body.

Beverly

Dear Donna,

I'm sorry you're having so much trouble making pants. At least be assured that once you get a basic pair of pants fitted, you can make any style of pants from the same pattern.

First, take some measurements. From your NATURAL waist in front, to your natural waist in back, through your legs. Divide the measurement in half. Add four inches to the back, and subtract four inches from the front. Measure the entire measurement of the front and back crotch on the pattern. You only need about 1/2 inch ease, so if there is more than this difference from your measurement, this is where you need to make adjustments. Do it by slashing and adding, or folding and taping. This won't completely fix the problem, but it will get you closer.

Your pants should hang perfectly straight from your butt down. There should be no creases or stress wrinkles. And, when you sew your muslin (and finished pants), you should stretch the back crotch with steam, so that when you fit them, they should cup your butt nicely without pulling.

Getting the crotch right is the key to making great pants. Also, make sure that you don't change the crease line, which should be the center front and back of each leg. Once the pants are cut out, you can't change this--it's also the grainline. If changes need to be made in the legs, be sure to make the changes above the knee. Below the knee must be adjusted equally on both sides of the leg, or the legs will twist.

Good luck!

Teri

Donna, get someone to measure you in a few non-standard places. Tie a twill tape (not elastic...it crawls) around your midsection where you want the bottom of the waistband to be. Have your friend measure CF/waistline to floor, CB waistline to floor, Sideseam to floor, and total crotch length, CB/waistline to CF/waistline.

Now, without letting the tape move, measure sideseam waistline to chair seat when you're sitting on a nice, flat hard surface (coffee tables are great for this measurement).

There are a couple of things that I can think of that could be happening to give this wad of fabric:

1) you need more crotch extension than the pattern allows for, so you're "stealing" fabric from the front crotch length, producing little wads right about the level of leg creases. (comparing the actual seam length of the entire crotch curve to the crotch length measurement should tell you if this is happening -- I like about 1" ease in this measurement in smaller sizes, about 2 for larger sizes) Another check... open the crotch seam from inseam to inseam and walk a little, then check to see if you have a front-to-back gap opening there... that's the extra extension you need, if so.

2) your front waist is lower than your back waist ("tilted waist"), and extra fabric is being forced lower as the waistband moves to where you want it to sit.. (comparing the CF to floor and CB to floor will tell you this)

3) the crotch depth ("rise") is too long for you. Measure the side seam of the pattern to the level of the crotch extension's seamline and compare it to the "sit depth" you measured.

When I'm doing pants muslins, I draw in the true grainlines on both front and back legs (fold in half lengthwise at the hem), and perfect crossgrain across the widest parts of the belly, behind, and thighs. I baste the muslin seam allowances out and try it on. First I adjust everything so those grainlines are perfect... then I take care of fitting issues by pinfitting. For me, this is the most efficient and logical way to proceed.

Kay

Thank you for the suggestion, Beverly. Unfortunately, I have four pairs of pants that fit well enough to wear, sort of, but none that fit exactly right. Not being able to find much in ready-to-wear is one reason that I am trying to make my own.

Donna Gennick Michigan's Upper Peninsula

Thanks, Teri. I measured like you said and checked my pattern. According to the measurements, I should add 2" to the center back seam and subtract 2" from the center front. However, even when I pull up on the center front seam, it doesn't solve the problem. I will keep this formula in mind for altering the pattern, though.

Donna G. Michigan's Upper Peninsula

Thank you for your detailed response, Kay. I haven't had time to check them all out yet, but they are worth looking into.

The main problem I have is that there is too much fabric between my legs at the front crotch. It forms vertical folds (parallel to my legs), and shortening the length of the center front seam does not improve the problem. When I sit down, I get a big mound of fabric in my lap.

I think I'll go make a skirt for now. The pants can just go sit quietly in a corner until they're ready to behave themselves.

Donna G. Michigan's Upper Peninsula

No, that doesn't solve it. Maybe I wasn't clear enough about the problem. I have too much fabric between my legs at the front crotch, forming vertical wrinkles, and when I sit down, I have a big mound of fabric in my lap.

Okay, but I'm trying to get the pants front/crotch area to fit closer to my body. Was I on the wrong track?

Think I'll just go spend some time on the skirt I've been really wanting to make. It's this one:

Donna G. Michigan's Upper Peninsula

Dear Donna,

I know how frustrating this can be. The skirt is probably a good idea before you go back to the pants. Here's something else to do to your muslin. Press the creases, front and back, then draw an easy-to-see line along this crease. This is the grainline. Now when you alter, you can see if you're distorting the pattern. Just pin out this bunch you have in the front. Walk, sit, bend, to make sure you aren't overfitting. Then, use the muslin for your pattern. It wouldn't hurt to make another muslin with all the changes before doing a good fabric. Then make a permanent pattern on pellon for the rest of your pants. I've used essentially the same pattern for twenty years, grading it up and down as my weight fluctuates. But I still remember stressing over that first draft.

Teri

Oh, Donna, I like this skirt pattern and I have some gray/gray polka dot fabric that I've been wondering what to make with it. How lucky I am, Hobby Lobby has McCall's for 99-cents this week. I hope they have this one. Emily

Can you purchase RTW that will fit like you want? If so, then you might want to purchase a pair, go home and trace out a pattern of these RTW and compare your pattern with the McCall's pattern, and make adjustments. Then, if you want to, you could return the RTW to the store. Barbara in SC

I know I"m coming in late on this, and someone may have already posted my favorite site about pants fitting, but I'll post it anyway:

I don't wear slacks per se, only culottes and split skirts, which are by definition roomier, but this site still has helped me make them to fit.

On the pattern draftign software mailing list I was on (before they moved to web-based message forums, PTUI!) one user group was getting great fit by taking Romex wire (heavy electrical wire) and creating a custom crotch shape and copying that (including some ease) on their patterns.

Melinda Meahan - take out TRASH to reply wrote: one user group was getting

Hmm, that's an interesting idea, Melinda. I might try that! Thanks.

Donna G. Michigan's Upper Peninsula

Melinda Meahan - take out TRASH to reply wrote: someone may have already posted

Nope, no one has, but I found it myself the other day. Thank you for the suggestion.

Donna G. Michigan's Upper Peninsula