Zipper Fly Advice Needed

Must you have a fly front? I have returned to having center back or sideseam lapped zippers. I figure (1) I am female, and therefore do not need front opening pants, and (2) my tummy is quite big enough without adding a fly to emphasize the fact.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

Donna, try Sandra Betzina's tutorial

chris

:-)

Thanks for your suggestion, Chris! I had looked at that one, but it doesn't have an underlap. Sandra Betzina says you don't need one, but I think it looks incomplete and sloppy without one. Also, I don't want an exposed zipper that can catch on my under garments--or bare skin, since part of the zipper will be above the underwear.

Her method looks easy and pretty much fool-proof, though. I'm wondering if it would be difficult to add an underlap myself. Might experiment with that. Thanks again.

D>

Donna,

It is not difficult to add an underlap - just go for it.

I put off making trousers for years, and when I did eventually make my first pair I thought - Why the h*ll did I wait so long! (Probably the same reason I put off buying an overlocker - intimidation!)

I only learnt how to do a proper fly zip installation a couple of years back, and it certainly looks better than any other method. I've found popping a bit of interfacing into the fly can help prevent it wrinkling during washing. It's something that had bugged me about home made trousers - the fly front always wrinkles in the wash, and never irons flat! Bit of interfacing fixes that...

I used the instructions in the Dorling Kindersley Complete Book of Sewing - which include an underlap.

I have to say the first time you read the method through you think "huh?" as it looks weird - but trust me it works, and it all comes out the right way round and in the right place if you follow the directions. The good thing about this book is LOADS of photos - real step by step. I actually like this book better than the Readers Digest Book of Sewing, and I'd recommend it to anyone.

HTH

Sarah

Dear Donna,

This is the foolproof method of installing a fly zipper that I taught my students. First, take the fly pattern and tape it to the center front, matching the seamlines. If you want a zipper guard, make a copy of the fly pattern, and cut it with the curved side on the fold as far as possible. Serge of overcast the remaining curve part of the zipper guard. Set aside.

Mark with a snip where the fly will be pressed under. On the upper side, the snip will come exactly at the center front. On the under side, the fold will come 1/4 inch over into the fly, so that there is a wide overlap. Sew the fronts together for one inch below the zipper opening, just enough to hold the two pieces together while the zipper is inserted. Press under the fly pieces, using the snips (NOTE: The zipper is the first thing you do when you make pants. The pockets are next. The long seams are the last things to do.) Open the zipper. It can be any length longer than the opening. The opened zipper tab should be at the lower opening where the zipper is to be sewn. Sew the under side of the zipper from the top down to the tab. If you use a zipper guard, sew it in now, using the original stitching as a guide, and stitch again along the same line of stitches.

Pin the upper fly over the under fly from the right side. Turn your work over so that the wrong side is facing you. Sew the fly--only the fly--right next to the other side of the zipper. Now turn your work back to the right side, and topstitch the fly for the upper side in place. If you need to, mark it with chalk. Make sure that you miss the stop on the zipper when you mark it, and backstitch or bartack at the end of the topstitching. Done.

Teri

Thank you for your detailed reply, Teri. I'm printing it out for reference.

D> Dear Donna,