I am in the process of learning how to make a welt pocket, starting with the slanted breast pocket. I have tried half a dozen different procedures with varying results but one basic detail escapes me in all the instructions.
What is the relationship between the width of the welt and the width of the slash?
Is a pocket defined by the welt, the slash, the opening, the pouch?
The other problem I have is that after stitching the slanted welt in place and turning it up, there is always a tag hanging out on one side. If one cuts a parallelagram out of paper and folds one long side a seam allowance from the edge, the problem is obviously real. How does one deal with this.
it should be on the inside, so it wouldn't matter. if it is on the outside, it means you probably didn't turn something in when you should have.
the width of the pocket is the pouch.
the welt will appear to be as wide as the slash, but will continue on the inside for a half inch or so on each side. on the inside, that extra should be stitched to the pouch, when you stitch the sides of the pouch, so it can't fold back out again. everything you would see or feel from the outside should be completely finished, no loose threads or unfinished seams or edges. all the edges of the fabrics are only visible on the inside.
I'm assuming you're doing a single welt. Construct the welt first. Don't do any slashing until the welt and pocket bag are sewn in place. Careful marking of the pocket bag is crucial, because it folds over and sews together after it's turned to the inside. Mark the lines for the slash on the inside of the garment. Baste the welt in place (upside down, with raw edges at the center of the marked opening) on the outside. Place the pocket bag on top of the welt. Now begin sewing through all layers, from the inside of the garment, so that you can see the markings. Before cutting anything, check the ends of the pocket to make sure that you are exactly at the ends of the welt. I like to backstitch to strengthen. Leave 1/2 inch uncut at the ends of the slash marking, then cut into the corners, making "pie" shapes at the ends. It's important to snip right up to, but not through, the stitching. If done correctly, the pocket will fall into place when turned, and needs only pressing and sewing of the sides of the pocket bag. I like to hand-sew the ends of the welt, so nothing shows from the outside.
On 2005-06-19 snipped-for-privacy@schmidling.com said: >Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,alt.sewing >I am in the process of learning how to make a welt pocket, starting >with the slanted breast pocket. I have tried half a dozen different >procedures with varying results but one basic detail escapes me in >all the instructions. >What is the relationship between the width of the welt and the >width of the slash? >Is a pocket defined by the welt, the slash, the opening, the pouch? >The other problem I have is that after stitching the slanted welt in >place and turning it up, there is always a tag hanging out on one >side. If one cuts a parallelagram out of paper and folds one long >side a seam allowance from the edge, the problem is obviously real. >How does one deal with this. >js >-- >PHOTO OF THE WEEK:
Sometimes it's helpful to see a lot of construction pictures. This book
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is a good one. "Just Pockets" by Pattricia Moyes. Great instructions and great pictures throughout. (I have this one in my sewing library, because welt pockets made me nuts when I first tried them. lol) Check your local public library too. But if you were of a mind to put together a good sewing library, this might be a good addition. ;)
Good luck!!
Sharon
---oh, and my only other advice on welt pockets.....a good cussing seems to help the really tricky ones fall in line. ;)
Welt pockets are right little b*gg$rs aren't they. I made a waiscoat (vest) for my Dad for Xmas 2004, and had to read the directions about 5 times (which included turning the book through 90deg a couple of times, going "you what?" in a clueless fashion, and asking for some help here!) and do two practice pockets before I felt they were good enough for the real thing!
As others have advisded, it may be worth your time to get one or more books out of the library that show how to make pockets - it may be you find a clue in one book that gives you the ! that's how to to it ! moment.
The width of the pocket opening is determined by the length of the slash, in the rectangle you sew to contain the welt / slash. The depth of the welt is determined by its width and how you position it with respect to the opening, the trick is to get that opening the same width as the welt (or welts).
You must ensure that the welt (or both welts with a double welt pocket) is longer than the slash by two seam alloances - i.e 1 to 1.5 inches longer, and that the pocket bag is the same width as the welts.
Once you get your mind round HOW the wretched things are made, its just down to precision, accurate to the last mm sewing, cutting and pressing. Following each step in the book, even if it doesn't make sense to start with is good as well.
One thing I can tell you is that everything should end up on the inside, leaving you a smooth, flat surface on the outside, with no hint of construction showing. You do partially construct it from the outside before turning it through the slash.
Why don't you practice on a horizontal welt pocket first, rather than attempting a diagonal one? It will allow you to get the technique correct using on grain fabric, before you have to start worrying about technique and bias cuts at the same time.
Try also looking at the directions for making welt buttonholes - VERY similar, and I actually found these directions easier to understand than the pocket ones!
This is good advice. One other thing I would mention is a possible difficulty with the V-shaped clips at either end of the stitching; if the fabric isn't tightly woven, it is apt to fray at these points. In my experience, with many fabrics it is a great help to first attach a rectangle of fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the garment, just a little wider and longer than the area to be stitched. This acts as a stabilizer...it's also easier to see the stitching lines when they're marked on interfacing, usually.
I have every confidence that Jack's welt pockets will be splendid.
I used to be very afraid of welt pockets: the patterns never seemed to quite work. Then I did 25 or more waistcoats for a craft fair, each of which had two pockets! I didn't really use a pattern for the welts. After that, they have never been a problem. Something you might like to see is Just Pockets by Patricia Moyes, ISBN 1-56158-170-4 (Taunton,
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