adhesive for replacement velcro on sanding pads

Yes George try the 3M adhesive. It comes in a spray can and work very well. I have also used a product called "Sticky Glue" used in floral craft places. It is white drys fast and is sticky sticky.

George Saridakis wrote:

sanding pads (I use many as I turn professionally), and although Liquid Nails did fasten the replacement Velcro, it stiffened the pad and changed it's sanding characteristics.

Hi Folks,

I have been experimenting with gluing Velcro on those replaceable = sanding pads (I use many as I turn professionally), and although Liquid = Nails did fasten the replacement Velcro, it stiffened the pad and = changed it's sanding characteristics.

Any suggestions?

thanks George

(I use many as I turn professionally), and although Liquid Nails did fasten the replacement Velcro, it stiffened the pad and changed it's sanding characteristics.

I use 3M spray, in the "removable" method, on 9 & 12" disk sanders, haven't tried it on small ones yet..

Personally, I think good ol' rubber cement worked better...

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

The 3M Super 7 aerosol has done well for me. Cleaning the surface properly before use makes a difference. Lighter fluid -Naphtha - works on the goo and not on the rubber.

George I have been using simple hot glue without any problems. Try looking at=20

I have tried several products in the past to solve this problem. = None of them worked satisfactorily!!. I have found a product that is = perfect though. It is called Shoe Goo and is for repairing shoes and = boots. I tried it on my sanding mandrel and it works great.......!!! = It doesn't get hard or brittle but still holds like steel. If you can't = find it locally their web site is

Tried it, left lumps. Went back the other way.

Could be the type of hot glue.

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message news:iEeDd.53131$dv1.18054@edtnps89... George I have been using simple hot glue without any problems. Try looking at

Like Denis, I've had good luck with contact cement. I repaired 2 mandrels about 5 years ago and they still stick.

Art Learm> Hi Folks,

Tim Skilton, the manufacturer of one of those pads, recommends contact cement. I have used several different types of glues and found that most will give good lumps, noticeably stiffen, or be too brittle. Contact cement is the best compromise of all of them. Standard Home Depot/Welbond works great. If it is coming apart from heat, you are using way too much pressure/speed. Steve Worcester

Art and Diane wrote:

Hi Folks,

I have been experimenting with gluing Velcro on those replaceable = sanding pads (I use many as I turn professionally), and although Liquid = Nails did fasten the replacement Velcro, it stiffened the pad and = changed it's sanding characteristics.

Any suggestions?

thanks George

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I would have thought so but it has not for the last four or five years, may be it won't?

actually, Darrell, I'm surprised that you NEED to sand... *g*

You probably have a light touch on what sanding you have to do, and don't build up much heat..

I'd have to use a bulldozer or plow first on mine.. lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mac With some of the woods I use I may start sanding at 180 or as low as 40. In fact for some of the really spalted stuff, the last "cuts" are likely 40 grit. It is a pleasure to take a shear scraper to a piece of really nice dry maple and have a surface that only requires a bit of 120 or 180 before settling down to the fine grits, but it seldom happens. Cross grain is likely to pull or tear and who knows what burl will do? Ken Bullock habitually starts to sharpen with 40 or 60 grit and he has turned and sanded thousands of bowls. I guess my philosophy of sanding is to sand with as coarse a paper as needed to get the job done as quickly and efficiently as possible. Then I get to turn the next one :-)