Best Way To Remove Bowl????

Neither. Find a nice, sturdy knife. Place the edge precisely on the glue-line. Tap the back of the knife with a mallet. Have something soft placed to catch the bowl. Sand the remainder of the paper off the base.

I use a parting tool, part in a bit, stop the lathe, give the bowl a tap and repeat as needed.... As, for doing the bottoms, you can do it by hand or use a chuck of some sort.

You can buy or make a chuck, depending on your budget and the amount of turning you plan on doing...... The bottom line is to, Practice and have fun with it..... Ken......

Hi, There are a lot of different approaches to removing glue blocks from the bottoms of bowls. personally i use hot melt glue when using a glue block but i have also tried out using different wood glues too. i suggest that you part on the glue line at a fairly low speed down to a tennon of around 1 1/2" inches ( depending on how large the bowl is), removing a slight bit of the bottom of the bowl, and then cut through the rest of it wit a thin bladed saw( hacksaw or similar) and then sand using a circular sanding disc on your lathe or hand sand it, and finish it using whatever oil or finish you have on the rest of the bowl.

Hope this made sense.

John

Amen, thats how we were taught in HS in the 60's, a knife or putty knife.

Hi Gerald, I have used double sided tape with good results, but I've always used the thin stuff. I'm just wondering, the foam tape doesn't give or move while turning? By give I'm thinking small amount maybe 1/64". What size bowls do you mount this way? Martin

Stemo,

I would use a sharp chisel, with the flat side facing your bowl so the bowl base isn't damaged. Tap the chisel into the joint at several locations until the bagged joint separates. You should put something under the bowl so it doesn't fall onto your lathebed (or floor) and get damaged. Sand off the bag and remaining glue or reverse turn the bowl.

Kevin

For removing the bowl from a "paper joint", I have a stiff putty knife that has a double bevel ground on the end. Just line it up on the paper and give it a good wack with a carver's mallet. Wide bench chisels can be used but the slingle bevel will sometimes cause it to "dig in" if you are not careful. Scrape the paper and glue away with a cabinet scraper or reverse it in a compression chuck or vacuum chuck and turn the base. Glue and paper will load sandpaper very quickly.

Hi Stemo, glad your bowl turned out well. As for the bag paper, it's useful to use for 2000 grit sandpaper, but like spats, bustles and dead tail centers, IMHO, its time has mostly passed, except to read about in old books. Although I think glue blocks are still very useful, interposing paper seems unnecessary with today's glues and parting tools. I wonder why you, and it seems many others put paper between the join. Somebody correct me. Arch

Fortiter,

Inch and a half chisel my choice, used as Kevin says, so the compression damage is _only_ in the waste. Symmetrical stuff like putty knives will work, but sometimes leaves marks on the piece as well.

I try to avoid such things by parting nearly off and making a slight concavity in the base of the piece, which is the best way to have it sit flat. Be reasonably generous in what you leave, depending on attachment method, and finish - power off - with a saw. The nub you leave behind can be whittled away quickly with a curved knife and blended with sandpaper.

NY

Stemo, my two remaining grey cells kicked in and I do recall making a 'front & back turned, half moon shaped' piece by cutting a platter in half and gluing the backs together. I used a paper joint when making the platter so that later when gluing the two halves together I kept the loss of wood at the join as small as possible. Anyway, who cares? ;) Arch

Fortiter,

I also use a chisel to remove it. The first few times I did it, I completely saturated a thin paper bag with glue to glue it up. (I think that I used a lunch bag.) I was unable to get it to fall apart on the glue line, and had to chisel away the wooden block one bit at at time.

I switched to thicker brown bags (the thickest grocery bags I could find) and used less glue. It came apart in a couple of whacks, right along the glue line.

David

My wife and I use a good sharp chisel, flat edge down and tap the handle with a mallet. The sloped side of the chisel helps raise the wood puck and split it off. Then sand and finish by hand.

We usually do this off the lathe, with the bowl on a non-slip rubber pad. Works well for us...

Dave

Thanks for all your suggestions. I tried the double beveled putty knife method and with a rocking gentle pushing motion, the thick brown grocery bag split right down the middle with no damage to the bowl or the mounting block. I used a scraper to remove the bag and glue from the bowl and sanded what little glue was left. The bottom is perfect and my first bowl lives!!!! Thanks again

STEMO