Botched chess board as turning blank?

Nov 14, 2003 6 Replies

I, well, let's say I learned some valuable lessons from my first attempt to make a real chess board from contrasting woods. It doesn't look



*horrible*, but I can apply lessons learned and do better next time, so I'm not going to bother completing this one. I ruined some nicely figured wood with this misadventure, and I'm trying to think of a way to save it to use some other way.

I have nine strips of not-quite-squares of walnut alternating with soft maple. I'm thinking maybe I could plane the faces flat and laminate all of this together into a roughly square turning blank that would be checkered in three dimensions. The resulting blank would be something shy of 3" square, and a tad over 13" long by the time I take all the humps and bumps out.



I think I've seen stuff like this done before, but I don't remember where. I could use some inspiration, and some pointers. Is Titebond good enough to hold all of this together for turning? Will soft maple and harder walnut create problems? How about the fact that my glue lines aren't quite perfect, and there are some slight voids from faces that weren't exactly parallel to each other?



If I can use it, what could *make* from these things? Would this make a good learner project, or should I save it for later?



My first thought is to glue this up, cut the blank in half and make a salt and pepper shaker set out of it, but that might be both too uninspired and too ambitious for an early project. What else have ya got for me to ponder?


I think Tightbond will work just fine. You might want to consider turning a simple lamp.

Stuart Johnson Red Oak, Texas

Lamp, Candleholder, Billy club. All kinds of things you can make with that size stock. I'd use Titebond 2 if it was me, but that's my opinion.

If you're really a glutton for punishment, you can make one of those open twisted candleholders base on a helix. Nothing else, you will feel like you got your moneys worth out of the wood.

OK, I'm liking the lamp idea. The twisted helix sounds too challenging for a total newbie.

Now, how do I go about boring a hole through this thing? Maybe get a big auger bit, a Jacobs chuck for my tailstock, and crank it through?

I'm sure that's bound to be in one of the books and videos I'm getting with my lathe, but it never hurts to think ahead. :)

Duhhherrrrrrrrrrr. I deserve a smack on the noggin from someone. Round hole, square hole, the wire doesn't care.

I could pro'ly get two lamps out of these strips doing it that way. Hafta be careful not to cut all the way through though.

Harbor Freight and probably a lot of other places sell inexpensive long drill bits (auger, normal twist & wood boring)for tall objects, or a lamp auger as was mentioned. They carry the Jacobs key chuck (½") for $4.99 and Sears sells a morse taper to mount the chuck on. Drilling on the lathe will be the most accurate if you can, however a drill press will work too. If you have a benchtop like me, turn the bed out of the way, and you have all the height you might need. The base usually has a hole in the center where a bit can be run through. A little thought and you can devise a way easily to drill the hole with a benchtop unit.

I'd be inclined to drill it first and then maybe adding some blocks to the ends and turn from there. Probably the wrong approach, but... I have a problem ruining objects (clamp marks, dropping while drilling etc) once they are turned so tend to drill or other stuff like that first.

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