Burl for chess pieces

I've turned both Maple (Tiger and Bird's Eye) and Mesquite, and both of them take detail superbly. The Mequite looks like burl even if you get "regular" pieces, so you may be able to save some money by just going with a standard blank for those. Couldn't tell you much about Maple burl (I've been looking and looking for it, but they're not that common in my stomping grounds) but if it's anything like other figured maple, it'll turn nicely and take as much detail as you care to put into it. Both woods are hard, and have good tight interlocking grain. They polish to similar glassy shines even without a finish, too. Good choices for a set! I'd think the Cherry would be a bit of a mismatch, but YMMV.

=============== Brad, I'll back up Prometheus on the Mesquite, as it's about equal to most exotics for polish and detail. Also, there's almost no shrinkage on small pieces. It's supposed to be the most stable hard wood in N. America. The only draw back I'm aware of is the high silica content that wears tools quicker than most woods. In maple, there's hard and soft(er) species. The harder takes detail better than the soft. blanks sould be pretty pretty economical since you don't need large pieces for your pieces. You can probably use pen blanks for the pawns, and 1-1 1/2 inch spindle blanks for the remainder.

Ken Moon Webberville, TX.

Couldn't tell you much about

Hard maple doesn't go much to burl. Most of what is out there commercially is from the left coast broadleaf. Think I've had maybe three maple burls delivered in twenty years, and I live in the midst of loggers. There's a

4x6-footer just off the right-of-way as I head south to the grocery store, but I have this thing about private land.

Yep. I wonder how those snaky-looking welts on the trunks of red maple turns, though. Seems like there'd have to be *something* of interest in the grain under those, but I hate to cut down a perfectly healthy tree just to find out.

They have to be of some vintage before you can turn 'em. Normally those come from injury to the tree, and it takes time for them to close over. If you're lucky, you can get either a fully healed to turn as bottom to show wild grain, or open but healing turned up. The problem with the open one is you have to be able to turn down to sound wood and still preserve your unusual "rim." They, and birch blisters make beautiful work.

Nothing wrong with cutting a healthy tree to turn it. Heck, you'll use it anyhow, won't you? Loggers cut 'em all the time. Cut a tree, plant a new one, just like any other crop. It's not like you're going to shoot a buffalo, take its tongue and leave the rest of it to rot.

I say, if it's on your property or you've got permission of the landowner, cut it, turn it, enjoy it.