I'm expecting to turn a set of chessmen (pretty aggressive first project in many years on a lathe) of probably Juniper and probably Maple, pine or another light colored wood. I'm trying to figure out what would be a good finish for the set. I'm considered wax as I think I can do a lot of it while the pieces are still on the lathe but am unsure of how often I may have to rewax it - never used wax on wood before. Any comments on using wax for a chess set?
I've also considered lacquer or one of its derivitives or similar products and dipping the pieces several times to build up a nice thick finish & shine. Did this many years ago with a gearshift knob(60's, what else?). I know how it'll turn out with this but really am curious about using wax. FWIW, the chess board will be etched glass set in a nice wooden box yet to be made.
You don't want to use wax as an only finish. It just doesn't hold up to the use (I assume it's to be actually used as opposed to just a display) even with a good hard carnauba wax job.
Use the lacquer or a polyurethane but I wouldn't think you would want to have a heavy feeling to it as you would with many coats. Just 5 or 6 thin even coats of good quality spray lacquer (with sanding between) and then a light buffing would wear very well and look great.
If just decroative, then whatever finish looks good. For a working chess set, then you need polyurethane. Suggest dark walnut for black pieces and clear poly for white
Hmmm, good points you and Andrew make. It will be used on occasion but not very often. In fact, if I whoop my oldest son's butt like I expect, it'll probably get used even less. Sounds like Poly is the way to go. Thanks!
Which is, in essence, polyurethane and linseed oil. Not a bad wearing finish as long as you make it thick. But, somewhat like epoxy, too thick a coating doesn't feel good. You have to balance feel, looks, and protection.
...That feels good to the hand. If I want plastic chess pieces, I can go buy a set made of plastic; I don't need to coat wood in plastic until my fingers can't tell the difference. If the set is extensively used, the plastic will eventually wear off unevenly, and result in a refinishing problem of significant proportions if plasticated. An oil/wax finished set will be easily refreshed, and will be enchanced by the natural wear patterns, as they won't be cutting through a layer of plastic. And they will feel good to handle...
*sigh* Ever seen a regularly used chess set (or checkers/backgammon/hammer dulcimer strikers/etc.) finished only in an oil/wax? They look terrible. They have dark and light spots (those *wonderful* wear patterns!) and the wood is visibly, physically worn unevenly. That "enchanced (sic) by the natural wear patterns" idea is somewhat romantic in notion and hides a poor finishing choice for the items' use in that very idea but does a dis-service to the owner of it. They want something unique, handmade, attractive and meant to stay that way over the long term.
Easily renewed? Sure. By whom? You think a customer is going to actually do it? And you think that a customer wants an item that they HAVE to renew the finish on if they are going to use it regularly? Why make them do that when they don't have to?
You like that slightly tacky feel of a wax outer coating ("feels good to the hand")? I certainly do in many cases depending on the item I'm using. That's why I recommended giving the items a good, durable, light coating of a lacquer or urethane (too much makes it heavy and, in your term, "plasticated (sic)") with a hard carnauba wax buffing. You get the best of both worlds in this particular case. A few thin, quality coats of lacquer does not give a "plastic" feeling. You're not going to wear through the lacquer coating if it's done with quality lacquer and applied correctly. Nothing will help a poor finishing job or with poor quality components.
A customer isn't buying (or receiving as a gift) a hand-turned chess piece just for the finish used. They're going to like it because of the wood used; the thought going into it by the creator; the hand-made (sort of) process that went into it. The finish is, obviously, an important part and time/effort needs to go into it just as much as the rest. Don't skimp on just oiling/waxing it and then putting the burdon on them to do the job that you should have done in the first place over and over again.
If the chess set isn't going to be used all that much, then I'd say go for the oil/wax finish. It's easier/quicker to apply; will look good for long enough; and protect the items sufficiently.
There are lots of ways to go about finishing as there is anything else. I don't purport to suggest that there is ONLY one way as many woodworkers/woodturners ONLY use one method of finishing for everything. I use a variety of finishing products and techniques. I fit myself to the item and not the other way around. Use what you want but be aware of the issues involved so you can make informed choices.
Tung oil. MY *tung* ... oil. You know ... licking it.
Actually, I think the worst wearing common finish I've seen is just a plain non-drying oil like mineral or vegetable. Of course, they have their uses and I make lots of kitchenware and use these (well, never vegetable) alone all the time. But I don't expect them to last and protect. Some do. Go figure.
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