Finish on light wood/sap wood

I have used mostly oil/wax finishes on my bowls: walnut oil, Mahoney's wax, Danish oil with Beall Buffing, mineral oil and beeswax, etc. When I apply these finishes too some light colored woods (light maples, box elder, ect.) or to the sapwood on apple or cherry sometimes I get a shade of yellow that I do not like.

What are some other kinds of finishes that are easy to apply, food safe, easy for the customer to maintain and don't yellow white wood and sap wood?

Thanks, Ted

Reply to
Ted
Loading thread data ...

Hello Ted,

Most all if not all oil based finishes will somewhat yellow light colored woods. I haven't used any of the water based finishes. But I've found that Deft spray lacquer does about as well as anything to prevent color change in the wood when finished. I've never used Deft on items to be used in the kitchen or dining room, but only art type objects. Deft clear gloss lacquer really makes the piece shine if applied properly. I generally use several light coats to prevent any problem of the finish running one the surface.

My primary finishes for turned for use pieces is walnut oil or Kerf's Wood Creme. They are both food safe and fairly durable unless the item is put into a dishwasher. The can also be easily maintained by the end user.

Fred Holder

Reply to
Fred Holder

Hi Ted,

I've had the same experience, and shifted to using shellac on most woods to cut they yellow color.

I use Zinzer's Seal coat which is 2# cut dewaxed blonde. I dilute it about 2 shellac to 1 alcohol to get about a 1.5# cut.

I apply it with a folded shop paper towel. Two coats immediately, one right after the other. Another can be added in a few hours unless drying conditions are really bad. I hand sand lightly to get the fuzz down, using 400 grit or as low as 240 grit if the fuzz is bad. One more coat of shellac, and most things are done. Add an extra one if needed for shine.

I hand buff with gray synthetic steel wool, and add a coat of Renaissance wax, and buff.

Because shellac dries so fast, I do my finishing first thing when I get to the shop, all dust has settled overnight. By the time I'm ready to start making more dust, the finish is dry enuf not to trap dust.

I tried mixing my shellac from flakes, but didn't see the advantage and the price was steep.

Old Guy

Reply to
Old Guy

Reply to
l.vanderloo

Only advantage of flakes is the range of colors available and the fact that flakes last almost forever and premixed only lasts 2-3 years.

If you're happy with the color and you're using up the can before it goes bad, then you're fine as is.

I use shellac in both turning and other woodworking because of its fast drying and lack of toxicity. It's the only finish approved for use ON food - i.e. M&Ms, pills, etc..

BTW, some nice effects can be gotten by adding some dye to the 3rd or 4th coat of shellac.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

Old Guy wrote: : Hi Ted,

: I've had the same experience, and shifted to using shellac on most : woods to cut they yellow color.

Im used to think Deft from the can was colorless, but I did a workshop cabinet in baltic birch plywood that changed my mind on that. Very blonde shellac is close to clear, although it still has a slight tint.

Waterbase finishes are the way to go for true colorless film finishes.

: I tried mixing my shellac from flakes, but didn't see the advantage : and the price was steep.

You get a wider range of types and colors, from ultrablonde (near water clear) to a deep ruby red (garnet shellac).

-- Andy Barss

Reply to
Andrew Barss

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.