For my birthday this past weekend, my wife told me to get what I wanted within reason (meaning if I washed the dishes a couple of extra times I could spend around $100). So I ordered the Beall Buffing System as recommended by many on here.
After taking apart the old bandsaw in the corner, I found I had a 1/2 hp motor that turned 1725 (seems to be what was recommended). I assembled all the parts together, put the buffs on and WOW. Quick, painless, and perfect. Finally a finish that I don't mind putting on.
I'm learning with each piece I buff (learning more about my failures in sanding than I care to share) and now the plan is to get some bowl buffs to go with my collection. FYI, anyone considering getting this buffing system, don't hesitate. I can tell I'm really going to be pleased with it.
The only problem I've run into thus far is after the first couple of bowls I looked like I was the lint catcher in my wife's dryer. Man do those buffs throw off a lot of fluff. That seemed to be going away by the time I got to the last few bowls I had prepared for buffing.
Anyway, thought I'd share and say thanks to those who helped me to make the decision. Money well spent.
"JD snipped-for-privacy@wku.edu" The only problem I've run into thus far is after the first couple of bowls
just bought one myself and hooked it up last night. I, too, ignored the directions about this and learned about lint. Must be a Kentucky thing. I'm sure all other men read and follow the directions.
Not having one of these kits and going back in memory 30 years .Buff lightly and if you have loose edges or need to remove old compound lightly press a file against the wheel ?
A question for those who have used a shop version of the Beall system then changed to the real thing. Was the Beall system distinctly better? If so how much do you think was due to the progression of tripoli->white diamond->carnauba compared to the progression of linen->linen/flannel->flannel buffing wheels? I'm assuming the same rpm.
A similar question for those who have made shop versions of the Wolverine sharpening system and changed to the real thing.
I'm _not asking for opinions about other ways or systems for buffing or sharpening or whether to buy or not buy the branded products.
Just a note on compounds, Arch... We started with the little buffer from Penn State Ind. and it was pretty bad, but the compounds that came with it were very inferior, especially the wax stick.. Even on the 8" wheels from Beall, the PSI wax was cloudy and sticky compared to the wax from beall..
If I was building my own system, I'd start with the 3 sticks from Beall... YMWV
Who doesn't do progression of compounds? It's always done for sanding, plane or scrape-sandpaper-steel wool.
As to linen/flannel, I've used other materials including sisal, denim, string and nylon for wheels and they each have their values. Linen and flannel are very cheap, easy to procur and work well for wood.
I use different polishing compounds in addition to tripoli->white diamond- carnauba and keep a separate wheel for each compound used, beeswax, tung oil, etc.. I use my system for polishing many materials, wood, metal, glass, seashells, stone, etc..
I use variable rpm, different processes need a different rpm.
No experience with wolverine, made my own jigs for sharpening.
Excuse if this is a dumb question Joe, but I'm interested in your 'tung oil' buffing technique. I've not had a lot of success using tung oil in any way and I still I have a bunch to use up :) Also, what other compounds do you use othe than those you've mentioned?
No real technique, just apply and buff. Try to buff at an slight angle
5-10deg off of grain. Use heavy pressure for earlier buffs and lighter pressure for subsequent buffs. Don't contaminate. Use rags, pads, buff wheels, etc. for only one type of finish each. Don't burn or overheat when buffing. Use more heat for lower layers and less heat for final coats. Graduate abrasives and compounds for buff finish as in sanding from course to fine.
A standard treatment; Often but not always, apply shellac sealer. Let dry 6 hours. Apply another coat if needed for staining (colored shellacs) or if wood is highly absorbent. Sand lightly with #000 steel wool. Buff lightly with linen wheel. Pad apply Tung oil cut 50/50 with mineral spirits onto wood. Two methods of application based on results desired.
Thicker coats - Coat until stays glossy, usually 3-7 coats. Let sit 40 minutes. Wipe excess off lightly with cotton rag. Better for fine grained hardwoods. or Thin coats - Pad on liberally then wipe off immediately with hard downward pressure. Better for porous and soft woods.
Place on waxed paper while drying/curing. Let dry overnight. Sand lightly with #0000 steel wool. Repeat 2-7 days until no more Tung is absorbed during the 40 minute soak or for however many thin coats you want. Dry/ cure for 16 days plus 2 days per coat; 3 coats = 6 days + 16 = 22 days total cure, 7 coats =14+16= 30 days total cure time.
Buff at high speed using lambs wool or sometimes step like sandpaper from fine synthetic abrasives like the white 3m wheels to denim or sisal to lambs wool. Be careful not to overheat and burn. Assign the buffing wheel to a finishing compound and only use it for that type of finish.
Occasionally apply a finish wax, beeswax, carnauba or microcrystalline, as final top coat then a final buffing.
I find buffing along the way keeps each layer clear and enhances the overall final finish. Conversely, with distinct grain sometimes a quick finish and wax buffing can get you over 90% of the way there with 10% of the work. Sometimes you can't tell much difference in a quick finish and a multi-step finish until months later or after distress, water damage, UV exposure, etc..
Many, how about Walnut shells. Walnut shell compounds are great for brass, glass, stone or other inlay in wood to polish both the wood and the inlay at the same time. Works well with a microcrystalline wax. Walnut shells are recommended often for water ring finish repairs. What specific application are you interested in?
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 06:39:38 +0000, Tom Storey wrote:
Not much technique to it. Don't contaminate, use one wheel/rag/sponge applicator per compound. Don't overheat or burn, use more heat for first layers and less heat for top coats. Buff 3-10deg off grain. Use more pressure for first layers and light pressure for top coat buffing. Slower speed for first layers and higher speed for final buffing. The sanding and smoothing should be perfect both before and after the sealer and before and after the finish. If you cut through the sealer or finish you need to sand and re-apply until a thin even coating is achieved. Using Tung as the sealer can be tricky if you don't wait long enough for it to cure before sanding or if you apply it too thick. You don't want any stickiness left on the Tung finish before you attempt to buff it. The most common mistake I've seen with Tung oil is buffing before fully cured. Humidity and possibly even wood moisture content could affect cure time needed. Tung and other slow drying finishes lend themselves well to larger workloads. Work can be staged at different drying points since each piece can take up to 45 days to complete because of the curing/drying time needed. Other than that, some finishes don't get along. Some need to be on top while others need to be on the bottom. You need to keep a chart of products that work and don't work together. Most make sense, volatiles under sealers can't vent. Waxes can cause stain penetration problems. Tung is fairly workable with other finishes, under or over shellacs, under wax and over stains. Most of the "extra" work won't be noticed until a few months have passed, UV or moisture exposure, fingerprints from handling, etc.. A quick oil base and wax top coat buffed out can get you visually on first inspection about 90% of the way there for about 10% of the work.
A general Tung Oil finish procedure:
Finish sand object up to 220-320 grit. Often I use shellac as a sealer. Apply and dry for 6 hours. or Use Tung oil for sealer, apply thin coat as described below, let dry for
7 days.
Sand with #000 steel wool to cut off the raised grain. Slow speed buff using heavy pressure and a synthetic abrasive wheel. Then medium speed buff using light pressure and a sisal wheel with a wet or dry abrasive compound mixture depending on the wood. Re-apply second coat of sealer. Sand with #000 steel wool to cut off the raised grain. Slow speed buff using heavy pressure and a denim or sisal wheel. High speed buff using super light pressure and a lambs wool wheel. Repeat if needed for full coverage.
Use a pad to apply Tung Oil cut 50/50 with mineral spirits or other thinner. Use one of the two application methods below based on layer thickness desired.
For Thick coats - pad generously until surface remains glossy, 3-7 coats. Let sit 45 minutes. Wipe off excess lightly with cotton rag.
For Thin coats - pad generously. Wipe off immediately with a hard downward pressure with cotton rag.
Place on waxed paper and let dry overnight. Sand lightly with #0000 steel wool. Repeat 2-6 times until no more Tung oil is absorbed during 45 minute soak or as many thin coats as you desire. Let dry/cure for 16 days
2 days per coat; 3 coats = 22 days, 7 coats = 30 days. Slow speed, medium pressure buff using denim. Medium speed, light pressure buff using sisal. High speed buff, super light pressure using lambs wool.
Optional apply finish wax and high speed, light pressure buff using lambs wool.
Many. Walnut shell compounds work great for projects containing inlays of metal, glass, stone, etc.. You can polish both the inlay and the wood at the same time. What application are you specifically interested in?
InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.