What Wax To Use?????

Beeswax is the wrong thing to use in this situation.

1) You'll never get an "ultra glossy shine" from it no matter what you do. 2) It's not wear-friendly. I know, it's just for display and not "use" but it'll still get handled and bumped into by other display pieces. 3) The beeswax is sticky and gathers dust terribly.

Don't use beeswax here.

For that "ultra glossy shine" you'll want to go with a spray clear glossy lacquer (several thin coats) and then buff it well. A final buffing of 70% carnauba wax / 15% paraffin wax / 15% candelilla wax will give you a tough, very shiny coating. There are all kinds of other ways to get various levels of shine such as using the different types of urethane mixtures or friction polishes (both shellac and lacquer based with plenty of resin additives) but a quick spray of lacquer and buffing will get you there quickly and consistently for your situation.

- Andrew

Beeswax will not give an ultra gloss finish at all, you need a finish that will harden such as a urethane, polyurethane, shellac, or lacquer. And for an ultra gloss, you'll need several coats, because parts of the wood (endgrain, especially) will soak up the varnish instead of staying on the surface. So even with a high-gloss lacquer, you need to apply again and again until it stops soaking in--usually at least 3 coats.

Lacquer is the pro's choice for high gloss, but is tricky to use. You could try an aerosol can of Deft, available at most hardware stores. A few coats with a light buffing with very fine steel wool or a Scotchpad between each coat, will knock down the little dustmites.

I prefer the wipe-on oil/varnish mixes such as Minwax Antique Oil (rectangular red can), Velvit Oil, and General gloss finish. Easy to apply, with great results--no brush marks or drips, because you wipe off the excess with a lint-free rag after applying.

For any of the above-mentioned finishes, you can get a very glossy shine if you buff with a muslin wheel using white rouge, after the finish is completely cured--at least a week is best.

A polishing wax, such as carnauba (NOT beeswax), is the FINAL step after varnish or lacquer, using another muslin buffing wheel just for that purpose.

None of this is written in stone, it's just general practice as I know it. I HAVE gotten a mildly glossy shine with beeswax with hard buffing, but it had no durability.

Ken Grunke

I use Johnson's floor wax. Usually 3-4 light coats buffed on a flannel flap type wheel gets you a shinny fingerprint proof finish. I'm told that Johnson's contains carnuba as one of the components waxes.

Butcher's wax is also popular. I understand it's used by Bowling Alleys.

I seems to me that is you can bowl and walk on a finish it should stand up to normal handling.

Juergen

Go NY Giants They St> I am about to finish my first bowl and would appreciate your opinions on

FYI:

Johnson's Floor Wax contains very little carnauba. It's a nice wax but not ideal for a final glossy, durable finish. The smell is a turnoff for buyers too although it doesn't last longer than a couple of weeks. I use it sometimes to seal endgrain and stiffen wood fibers while cutting.

Butchers makes their original polishing wax and a bowling alley wax. Yes, it's durable for a wax but it's certainly not the only finish on a bowling alley. And it's constantly (or SHOULD be!) being reapplied because of the wear it's being subjected to in that environment.

- Andrew

I wax many of the parts of my lathe with Renaissance micro-crystalline wax. It prevents rust and keeps things sliding smoothly. Johnson's wore off much, much faster.

Derek

I've had good results with Trewax. It is, I think higher in carnauba than Johnson's

Kip Powers Rogers, AR