Richard Raffin - wax finish?

I think he is using beeswax at least that is what he uses in his video. I like using a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax. Melt the wax in a double boiler then add the same amount of mineral oil so you end up with a 50/50 mix. It sets up to the consistency of hard shoe polish.

Stuart Johnson Red Oak, Texas

I use a oil/wax finish very similar if not identical to RR's. When the wood is (finally) sanded, I liberally apply oil, usually just vegatable oil (althogh some say that it eventually turns rancid, but i have applied this same finith to hundreds of items without problem), then as the lathe is spinning, wipe most of it off, really not allowing any time of it to "soak" into the wood. When the surface is again dry, I crayon beeswax onto the work, just rubbing the stick (lump, eventually) on the spinning work. Then I go at it with a soft cloth, applying enough pressure to melt the way into the oil/wood.

This is NOT a durable finish, but it is inifinitely reparable if it wears or is washed off. A quick wipe of vegatable oil, a buff with a wax-impregnated cloth and it looks good as new...

Michael Latcha - at home in Redford, MI

thanks for the help

Dale

wax-impregnated

I agree with all the above information but I will add that it is best to use mineral or walnut oil. Walnut oil is the best as it is one of the few oils that dry. I would use mineral and not have to worry about customers having allergies. As far as wax, Raffan used beeswax, appearing to be a white bees wax. I have yet to try white beeswax and I'm not aware of any advantage over yellow [beside using it on very light/white wood] and can only think of the disadvantage of using it because of the steps involved to bleach it. I also use a carauba/beeswax stick that I make which is similar to Hut's sticks or I'll use just plain carnauba on hardwoods, there is nothing stronger.

I also use a

How do you make the stick?

John

Hi Dale, It's beeswax. He pushes the wax bar into the wood and uses the oily rag (mineral or peanut oil) to friction heat and spread the wax while mixing it with the oil. In the end he gets an oil/beeswax finish. He also uses orange oil on occasion, but it's expensive. You can get beeswax commercially, or check your local yellow pages for beekeepers in your area. You may be able to get it really cheap. The mineral oil can be purchased at any pharmacy or veterinary supply. The rag, well.... check your laundry basket ;)

-Jim Gott- San Jose, CA

once again - thanks to all for the good info

Dale