At what point during the process would I drill the hole in the bottom of the pieces for the weights? Initially, then turn 'around' the hole I drill in it? I don't have a chuck to hold it with (Jet mini) so logic(?) says to do it before I turn. If I wait until its all turned and sanded I'll scratch it up trying to hold it for the drill press or hand drill.
I just got some really nice dried solid cherry branches from a friend who's tree died and I don't want to screw them all up.
Grandpa John
Drill 3/8" hole 1/2" deep. Mount scrap on face plate and turn flat and
1/8" larger than faceplate. Drill 3/8" hole in center of faceplate and glue a 3/8" dowel with 3/8" protruding. Using hot melt glue, glue stock on faceplate. When finished turning part off 1/4". Hot melt works surprising well.I bore the holes after the pieces are complete. My sets have various diameters at the bottom. I took a 2x4, bored holes , sliced in half along the long side. Then bored a hole on each end for a bolt and wing nut. Place the chess piece in the jig ,tighten wing nuts ,bore on drill press.When you slice the 2x4 in half you slightly reduce the hole diameter, this helps hold the pieces tight. I punch 1/4" holes in sheet lead with a whitney punch.I bore the bottoms with a brad point bit a fraction larger. Drop lead into hole and tap it with a 1/4" punch.Depending on the length of the chess pieces I usually bore from 3/4" to 1 1/4" deep. Bore the holes in the jig with forstner bits, you will get clean holes that will not scratch the chessmen. mike
You could use Art's approach with the face plate and 3/8" dowel but then convert it into a pin chuck. For a description of a pin chuck check Fred Holder's page at
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Ask the community — no account required