Talon chuck

Hi Bill

Very good choice Bill, I think the Oneway chucks are still the best there is, also the jaw SHAPE design is superior to any of the others.

The wood screw is a real fast way to put a blank onto your lathe for initial tenon or recess shaping, without taking the chuck off of your lathe, IOW that's the way I very often start off on a rough blank, and then you are able to hold it any way you want after that, all it takes is a 1" deep by 11/32"D hole and spin on the blank, and away you go. You could shape the blank also with the tailstock center's help, but I don't like the tailstock in my way, it restricts the design possibilities to much IMO. Mostly turn outboard for that reason.

Bill Gooch wrote:

Wives just don't understand sometimes. Bought mine a Stihl 032 chainsaw for mothers' day back 25 years ago, and then the ungrateful creature went and got me curtains for fathers' day....

Woodworm screw is one way of starting smaller stuff. No substitute in my mind for the security of a pin chuck. Or the convenience of pin jaws. Also has a tendency to rust up badly unless it's stainless, causing some problems in removal.

Woodworm screw is for "smaller stuff?.......... Once again you crack me up George! I regularly turn bowl blanks up to 20 inch diameter and seven to eight inches deep on my Oneway Stronghold with woodworm screw. It is also NOT stainless and after using it for around seven years I have yet to find any rust on it. Will be right back am going to my shop/studio to see if any rust has started today that I might have missed ....................... Nope still no rust! You would think living so close to the ocean compounded by turning wet green blanks would cause mine to rust..... Hmmmmmm wonder when it will show up? Anyway thanks for yet another chuckle George...

If your woods were as acid as your replies, you might see more.

While I haven't turned anything as large as 20" with the Oneway Wormwood I haven't had any rusting problems. I noticed in a thread on, I believe, the Woodcentral Turning forum about 3 wks ago that other turners use the Wormwood to turn in the 12-16" region as a matter of course. As always, it is a good idea to use the tailstock when you can for safety particularly until the blank is better balanced. Billh

When the needle on my "Bulls**t Meter" hits ten I usually reply. Recently you have driven it off scale a couple of times....

Just curious if you are by any chance turning "acid" woods Bill??? :-) Just dawned on me..... I am pretty sure George uses one of those cheap "throw-a-way" chucks. Could be they are much more prone to rusting....

Bill.. I won't say that I use the chuck screw in the Talon a lot, just that I have a cheap cordless drill hung by the lathe with the correct bit in it and a stop at 7/8" depth.. *g*

Being lazy, if I can't chuck it right away, I mark the center, drill the hole, and use the chuck screw to hold it on the lathe.. (just put the screw in the chuck, making sure as you tighten the chuck that the flat surfaces on the screw "head" are resting on the flat areas in the chuck)

For bowl work, make sure that you drill the hole in the part of the stock that the top/mouth of the bowl will be and the bottom of the bowl is facing the tail stock..

It's a great way to get the work true and rough shaped, including making the tenon or recess on the bottom of the bowl before you reverse it in the chuck..

I would think how the screw is stored would have an effect on rusting and here I tend to turn mostly in the winter when it is dry in the house and darn cold outside and the summer humidity is somewhat controlled by airconditioning leakage into the basement. But I think your environment kind of throws that theory out since I'd think you'd have a lot of nasty moisture compared to my chunks of maple in a dry basement.

Took the ferry to Nanaimo last year around this time to visit friends in Comox. I would tell you the scenery was nice but you know that already.

Billh

Don't "store" it in some green cherry or oak. It works pretty fast. WD40 it afterward for best results.

With the safe and convenient options available for larger stock, as I said, it's not worth the risk . Because you _can_ doesn't mean your _should_ use it.

George,

WD40 is not even close to as effective as a silicone preventive (not just silicone lube). Used to carry equipment in the truck and that was the only thing that would stop rust.

TomNie

I haven't tried that on the stuff where I don't care about picking up dust. I use it for preventive maintenance on auto locks and such here in salt country, but find it's better at shedding water than freeing them up.

Then there's the ever-present accident problem in the shop. The silicones get onto surfaces, can transfer to the wood, and it's fisheye time.

I turn cherry and oak all the time. I suppose if I "stored" it in this wood I eventually would see some rust but that would be stupid ..... So I don't !

So if we all opt for the "George Method (tm)" then we will be MUCH safer. Sigh...............

Talon chucks, magnets and silicone in the turning shop?

Always? Never? Sometimes? The beat goes on. (:)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

Would she have been happier if you had forgotten that anniversary altogether?

Barry

Hi George

Maybe you should have a look at my photo album, it will show that a woodwurm screw can be used, fast, safely, even without a tailstock, and no, my woodwurm screw that I have used for several years does not show any rust, maybe your pin chuck does rust, not my woodwurm I can assure you. Also one does not need 2 or more inches of depth to use a woodwurm, 3/4" will do just fine, no lost rusty nails either, or do you use stainless steel pins for them ??

George wrote: >

Use your tailstock. You'd be a fool not to. Of course only a contentious fool would imply that steel does not corrode, and that a 3/8 screw is stronger than a 1" pin.

So have a nice day.