Talon Chuck questions

You don't need the screws for regular turning since the force of the cutting tightens the chuck on the thread. The number of threads contacting is plenty. You should use the screws when you are cutting with the lathe in reverse. Light sanding should be OK in reverse without the screws but as a precaution they are a good idea when doing anything in reverse. The screws do not come with the chuck and they are metric M8 setscrews. I think the M8 specifies the thread pitch as well as the diameter but am not

100% positive about that. Billh

I checked the specs on my rotary adapter and the set screws are specified as M8 *10. I think the 10 is actually the length of the screw (10mm or 1cm or about 0.4"). I looked at some I have and it looks like the thread pitch is around 8 threads/cm which is probably where the 8 came from. They send them with the rotary adapter so you can seal the holes in the taper-lock adapter to prevent air leaks. Billh

Nope ... there's a coarse (1.25mm pitch) and a fine (1.0mm pitch) version of M8 and upwards. See

having been said, I'd bet on it being the fine version.

I just upgraded my lathe, and replaced the tapered adapter on my Stronghold Chuck. (I believe it's the same adapter as the Talon). The new adapter did not come with set screws, and since my new lathe is reversible, I asked Oneway about them. Here's the response -

"The set screws are M8. We stopped including them as people were using them on spindles which were not built for set screw locking and damaging their spindles and then blaming us."

Seems that reversible lathes have an unthreaded portion at the headstock end of the spindle, and others don't. At least my jet 1236 didn't.

I went to Lowes and bought M8 1.25 x 16 socket head cap screws. I haven't tried them yet, but the 16mm length might be a tad too short. I'll know for sure when my lathe gets here.

Thanks for the info. After peering at 10mm worth of thread under a magnifier lamp I think it is actually the coarse thread but I wouldn't want to be my life on it. As usual, best to take the threaded piece to the store! Billh

Ron, The adapters for Oneway chucks are actually designed for the spindle on Oneway lathes which have a mating unthreaded portion that is a bit recessed from what I understand. Some, usually more expensive lathes, also have hardened spindles which means the screws won't damage the thread or are less likely to damage the thread. My reversing General has an unthreaded portion on its spindle but it isn't wide enough to mate with the chuck screws so they do impact on the threads. I bought some brass screws and cut pieces of them to fit between the chuck locking screw and the lathe thread. The brass won't damage the thread. I don't really use the lathe much in reverse to it is far from a big deal to me. If you aren't runnin the lathe in reverse there is no need for the locking screws.

Billh

Maybe I shouldn't have gotten the L/R thread on my adaptor (from what I see here-- Ron) & I wouldn't have to be worrying-- Does the RH thd have a counterbore (recess) ? I was thinking-- "maybe I'll use it on the outboard side for sanding" & ordered the L/R adaptor instead of the RH adaptor-- Many tks for all the responses-- Can't wait to turn the lid for my new urn on it (glue dry tomorrow) PH

Hi All

OK this better be right you made me go to my shop twice !@#@*!!! I have a Oneway Chuck and the adapter I use is for a shopsmith, the shopsmith has a plain shaft, (no thread) and the adapter has to hold with the set screw, my adapter has a set screw, and it is a 5/16X18NC NOT I SAY AGAIN, NOT 8 mm or as you say a M8, I grew up with both metric and imperial, and know of the sometimes very close sizes in relation to each other, that is why I after checking my adapter, and reading your post, I went back to make sure, used thread pitch gauge, taps and dial caliper, and am sure it is not M8X1.25 or M8X1.00, but 5/16"X18NC.

BTW the numbers M6, M8,M9, M10,M12, etc. is the Diameter bold, so M6 is

6mm D. and M16 is 16mm D. The other numbers like 0.90 or 1.00 or 1.25 etc. is the thread pitch, 0.90 tells you the thread pitch is 0.9 mm, and M12X1.75 would mean a 12mm bold with a 1.75 mm pitch thread As in imperial 18NC or 24 NF where they would tell you the number of thread per inch on your bold, were 3/8X16NC would tell you it's a 3/8D bolt with 16 TPI thread. Hope this makes things a bid more clear.

R> I just upgraded my lathe, and replaced the tapered adapter on my

Hi Bill

Like You say most lathes don't need the set screw, except when reversing or for those lathes that have braking on them to slow down the spindle, as for the adapters they are specifically designed to get around all the different thread ends of all the different lathes, can you imagine the inventory needed to keep some stock on hand for the whole range of lathes ?? Now they only have to keep a number of bodies and popular adapters on hand, any special threaded adapter is quickly machined. The unthreaded portion of spindle comes from the metal working lathes were reverse running is almost universal, tapping threading etc. and you better not forget to lock down your chuck.

fun and take careLeo Van Der Loo

billh wrote: >

Thanks,Leo. Hope it's not a long walk to your shop! What model of Oneway chuck do you have - I think they make 3 different ones. I thought they all used the same taper adapters, but I could very well be mistaken. In any case, the M8 set screw is what was called out by the support folks at Oneway, and an M8 x 1.25 fit the adapter in my Stronghold perfectly. Bill - Thanks for your tip. I have a Jet 1642 on order, and will check the shaft before using the set screws. It does have electronic braking, so I may have to go the brass set-screw route

I like use reverse a lot when sanding. There are plastic anti lock spindle washers (Craft Supply and Packard)designed to go between the spindle and the chuck or face plate. It helps to keep them from getting locked on. It also helps keep things on when using reverse. I can use a fair amount of pressure when sanding without things coming loose. If it does come loose, let go and it will stop unwinding. Then turn off the lathe. My lathe has a brake, and I have never had anything come loose. robo hippy

R> Thanks,Leo. Hope it's not a long walk to your shop! What model of

The L/R makes no difference compared to just the RH. It is just an adapter that is threaded with both RH and LH threads. When you screw it on the inboard side of the spindle the R threads engage, screw it on a LH thread and the other (L) threads engage. Put it on the spindle but don't tighten it more than just enough to hold it on. Put some pressure against the chuck as if it were a turning tool against a workpiece and turn the spindle in the normal direction. You will notice that the chuck tightens itself on the spindle thread. There is no way it will loosen while turning. The situation with electronic braking is a bit different in that if the braking is particularly abrupt the momentum of the chuck and workpiece (usually a heavy bowl blank) will cause it to unthread when the spindle stops. Normally the braking is setup to give quicker stops and to also avoid unscrewing the work.

I got a bad catch the other day and stopped the spindle and my outboard handwheel turned off the spindle. I usually just put it on hand tight and I run with the drive belt a bit on the loose side which was enough to allow the spindle to quickly stop. Billh

Hi Ron

I have the Oneway Stronghold, they very well could have changed the set screw size and thread, it is always prudent to not just take the things you're told for true, I've had a few lessons in life where I assumed "they knew what they where talking about" but didn't, just check to make sure, like measure twice and cut once The lathe I use does have reversing and I turn outboard mostly, my chuck adapter is heat shrunk onto a MT shank so it does not make a difference which way I run my lathe, the lathe has MT 5 in the head stock spindle, and I have approx. a 36" swing. Have a look at my web site if you care.

fun and take careLeo Van Der Loo

R> Thanks,Leo. Hope it's not a long walk to your shop! What model of

All of our adaptors use M8 locking screws except for the Shopsmith adaptors, they use the standard shopsmith locking screw size which is imperial. Metric screws are typically specified by the major diameter and the length which is really dumb as the pitch is not part of the designation, but our set screws are all coarse pitch, fine pitch metric screws are quite uncommon. Set screw locking is starting to get to be a real mess as companies are building spindles with accomodations for set screw locking but which are peculiar to their own machines. When we built our machines many people knocked us for using an M33 spindle instead on an 1-1/4 but we duplicated a spindle size that was already out there and had a good locking groove design. regards Kevin Clay Oneway Manufacturing

Hi, Leo

Great advice on checking info from the "experts", although in this case he was right on. - Thanks,Kevin!

Back when I worked for a living, I spent some time as one of those folks who gave advice, managing the technical support operation for a pretty high-tech product line. While I never intentionally "blew smoke" at a customer, I sure had times when we weren't 100% confident in our best answer! (Note, I didn't mention the comapny to avoid embarassing them - since part of my retirement income is tied their stock value - LOL)

I really enjoyed browsing your web site and congratulate you on your beautiful work. Also got some great ideas, especially for an outboard tool rest.

Thanks, Ron

your chuck works fine without the set screws.. maybe better without them, actually.. you might mess up the threads on your headstock with set screws..

You Jet mini has a tapered shaft and the threads "jam" the chuck, faceplate, etc. as you screw them on (gently) Cutting or sanding force tighten the chuck onto the threads..

I ground a couple of pieces of round steel stock to fit the set screw holes... a little longer than the knobbed rod that comes with the mini and tapered so that the rod can't go deep enough to contact the threads on the shaft.. I use the rod in the chuck adapter hole and the knobbed rod in the collar of the headstock shaft.. I figure that it puts less strain on the hand wheel when I'm taking the chuck off.... YMMV

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Leo.. I have one of those also.. I was using the shopsmith before I got the mini.. It's a different set screw.... "shopsmith" size..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Hi Ron, thanks.

I was not knock> Hi, Leo

Hi Mac

Yes , we all found out just now from Kevin, why the difference is there. I used the Oneway Shopsmith adapter for the reason that it already had a straight smooth inside opening, for if I had bought one with thread, I would have to cut thread on my morse taper shaft end, and than I would also have to deal with the possible unscrewing of the assembly, this was much simpler, it works great for me.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote: