Branch Question

Any turning with the pith included is likely to be a failure. Also, any attempt to dry the branches with the pith included is likely to be a failure. So, I think a lot of us turn down such projects because of the limited chance for success.

I've done some treen from small branches -- spoons, spurtles -- both spindle work where you don't need much wood. Maybe a candle stick would work.

When a hollow form is done spindle-wise and includes the pith, sometimes problems can be alleviated by drilling out the pith in the bottom, letting the piece which was turned green dry and then plugging it.

Overall, though, I find dealing with small branches more trouble than it is worth.

Bill

Woodborg wrote:

You make smaller things, including bowls with the pith out, but certainly not limited to them. Branch wood is best turned to final thickness green, because it has that reaction wood on the ground side which can take control if left to any thickness.

If you try to dry a branch, maintaining the integrity of the bark is critical. It will split rapidly radially without it. This also means it will dry slowly, so expect limbs other than willow to spalt inside the bark. Even that's not a bad thing. Cut 'em long, stack aside and save some branches as you turn others green. Willow's all but bullet-proof in drying. Small willow branches make exceptional Christmas ornaments, being light at the outset.

Some examples of branch turning.

1) Cut either side of the Pith - but leave most of the hartwood. A 6"dia branch should yield you a couple 3-3/4" high blanks.

2) Cut just to one side of the Pith. Turn that asap. And trim the upper edge to take off as much of the pith as looks to crack, maybe only 1/4" if you're lucky. Then turn the other half, again asap. You should get a 3" and a

2-1/2" high from a 6" branch (less what you do to the bottom.)

Woodborg wrote:

Turning logs/limbs in the endgrain, intact, is exactly what the LDD process was developed by Ron Kent for, turning Norfolk Island Pine. While willow obviously isn't the same tree, there is certainly precedent for it working on an endgrain bowl. I have used the LDD method with some success, ___as per Ron Kent's Instructions___, on elm, maple and maple endgrain pieces.

As soon as you possibly can after the tree is cut, rough turn your bowl, per the insttructions, drop it in the solution, let it soak, finish turning, sand and finish and let 'er dry. If you've got enough wood to do it with, you might try an experiment by doing one in the soak and doing one without the LDD and see if either of them crack.

Anyhow, don't let the naysayers turn you aside from your quest. But if you _do_ find that you can't one finished w/o cracking, you could still take a length of one of the limbs and turn a wing bowl, which would look nice also and would still give you something useful.

Most of my boxes, goblets and bud vases are from branch wood... turn them deep and thin and bag them for a while... Also, an 8" branch should be fine for turning 3 or 4" shallow bowls or plates..

If all else fails, cut them as long as you can and let them air dry for a year or so... the ends will crack, but the rest should be ok.. Mac

Thanks all for your quick replies. I will be attacking the tree sometim

next week and as i'm having the week off, will try the ideas above.

I got my lathe at the end of October and have been exprementing eve since. Apart from a basic CD send out by Robert Sorby which shows th basics of how to use the tools, all of my turning is trail and error with as much info taken from this forum espacially the use of LDD.

For valentienes day (she couldn't wait till Tuesday) my loverly othe half has brought me a days turning one to one tution, which i hope t take sometime next week and learn a bit more.

I only have one problem with woodturning, its too addictive

I'm going to go against the grain a bit on this one. I've turned a fair number of odds and ends with the pith In - I'm pretty tight with a dollar. Among those odds and ends are some willow mushrooms with bark left on the base and cap - I usually do these by turning offset between centers and then chucked to give a bit of angle to the stalk. You can also get a nice oval base and cap by using the whole branch. Some of the willow was air dried in the shed with zero protection on the ends - I'm not recommending this, but I had only a small amount of checking on the ends. I suspect that there are a number of species of willow, but the wood I turned was a bit 'muddy' though it had an interesting color variation - mostly yellowish.

Since this the wood is free and not real high quality, it is a perfect opportunity for you to experiment. Have fun making memory markers!

LD

Nice to hear someone else turns tilt-stem mushrooms. Do you do oval stems too? The combination fascinates people. The thick bark is also an asset on branch bowls.

Your experience with drying willow is spot on. Unless you put it out in bright sun to dry, it's going to survive. Turned about twenty feet of a trunk that fell across the drive a few years back, and the wood was anything but ordinary-looking with the adventitious buds and the shimmering grain reversals that make it hold together so well when drying. It is by nature a sponge, so it demands a lot of finish to show off best.

After the first year I began metering out the rest of the willows, not knowing when the next would fall. Had people asking for it.

It's also as good as butternut in carving and pyrography, as someone mentioned.

only one?

wait a while and you'll add several.... like expensive, compulsive, time consuming, etc...

I've spend about $6,000 in the last 2 years... still cheaper than hitting the bars at night, though.. *g* Mac

Hadn't thought of doing that. I'll have to try it. First time I left the bark on and got oval cap and base I had a Gleeful Happy Feet Moment!

AHA! That may be my 'muddy' problem - not enough finish. Thanks for the tip.

Or hitting the bars And gambling. :o)