Drying after LDD treatment

LDD isn't a drying agent for woodturning use. It has nothing to do with drying. It is simply a solution that is suppose to help prevent cracking/warping during the turning process when you must let it set for whatever reason. It's a wood conditioning and stabilizing solution with still untested effectiveness. Leif (you'll soon hear from) has a sample "protocol" for it's use that is a good place to start.

Many claims are made, either directly or indirectly, for the use of LDD and it's use for drying turnings is a commonly misunderstood one. I'm constantly having to answer this same question as a result. As a drying agent, it has not been proven in any way to help. Perhaps it will in the future and I more than welcome repeatable findings that everyone might be able to take advantage of.

Dry your turnings the same way that you would otherwise if you want to do it that way. Otherwise, final turn those bowls and dry (or not) as you would in that case.

- Andrew

Hi, Wannabe! The solution is simple! When you have done the final cutting and sanding of the item, the majority of the surface LDD is gone. It may feel a bit damp, but don't be deterred! I simply "slap" on the finish that I am using: lacquer, oil, wax, shellac and apply how many coats you want. The finish will immediate seal the wood sufficiently to either prevent any further water evaporation or will slow down the evaporation which will eliminate cracking or warping. HTH,

Leif

P.S. Al: I am anxiously awaiting the results of your experiments!

P.P.S: As to finishes, it is suggested that you not use water based finishes.

Oils tend to darken or color lighter woods. I've done several that I've first applied oil like tong oil to but it gives a yellowish color.

I had someone tell me that a good treatment for light colored wood was to use a wood bleach then a water based finish.

Then us>P.P.S: As to finishes, it is suggested that you not use water based >finishes. >

I have used bleach (laundry type) on a cherry wood bowl that I was turning. Didn't seem to be a problem. That was back when I first started with LDD and didn't know enough to be concerned. Some may think that I have that problem today, and they may be right! *G* I brushed it on prior to my final sanding operation and let it dry (pretty quick) on the lathe and then did my sanding and finishing.

Thanks Leif, that's exactly what I needed to know. I will place the items in plastic bags 'till I can get to them.

I even saved the corners of the blocks when I cut the bowl blanks on my bandsaw and roughed them into pencil cups. I placed them into LDD too.

I am using elm which I have a lot of from my woodlot. The trees usually die of dutch elm desease before they get to be big enough for saw logs. I have found it very susceptable to cracking and checking... sometimes while working on the lathe.

Paper, not plastic. Even if you're using an antibacterial placebo you may start the decay process in plastic. They'll continue to dry in paper.

TIME, it's almost impossible to coax turned elm into cracking, even if you rough and throw it into the corner to dry. You should have some nice crack-free pieces.

Wannabe! Peanut oil may be a "food" safe finish, but it could be deadly to those who have a peanut allergy. I seem to recall some turners label the bowl or item as finished with peanut or other nut oil as a warning. However, the warning label may not go with the bowl if gifted. I suggest another oil for a finish.