Ebonizing Rust Stain

I have the recipe for making this stain but before I use it on one of my turnings, or even a test piece, I'd like to know from those that have made it up and used it how satisfied they were with the end product and finsh? Does it actually darken walnut to a near ebony colour? and how drurable is it? Does it blotch like some stains? I did a bit of a search but I didn't get the questions answered.

Thanks!

Reply to
Tom Storey
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Tom, The sucess of the colour depends on how much tannin there is in the wood. It will work on almost any wood if the wood is washed in tea (black, no sugar) You will have to experiment on scrap to decide how long and how much will give you the desired colour. It is NOT a finish and so should be protected with an appropriate oil or water base finish after it has dried. Personally I have used this a lot but never mixed up a batch. I always just use steel wool to apply vingar straight onto the wood. Used it mainly on oak and it goes to a solid blue/black. Applied BLO as a finish as it is outdoors. BLO once a year keeps up the protection and adds to the blackness.

Reply to
Canchippy

That's the easy bit - watch out for the details too.

To get a good _black_ stain, you must avoid iron oxides in it - otherwise there's a brown or orange scum that forms. Keep the iron submerged in the vinegar with a weight on top of it (if you're using wire wool). Throw it out if it starts to discolour.

Wouldn't be without it.

It's dependent on tannins (or other things) in the timber and I've never had much luck getting a deep or even stain if I've had to apply tannins to it myself with a tea, tanbark or persimmon wash. However walnut works beautifully with it.

The same pigment was used in inks that have lasted 1000 years without any trouble. If you're _really_ worried about durability, then damage from residual acids is going to be a problem long before you see any fading.

No.

Reply to
dingbat

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