Mastering Cone Six Glazes, Our Test Results

I tried to change the subject title, but it reverted back to the other one.. I would love to hear of other's test results. Here's mine for Waterfall Brown, though not terribly accurate because it turned out to be overfired to at least cone 7. Waterfall Brown is the only one I have tried so far. I overfired it so I can't really say too much, except it looks like it can be overfired and still look pretty much like the photo. My suggestion would be to put it ona textured surface for a better result. Mine was on a smooth bowl. Gaye

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GaSeku
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Reply to
D Kat

Hi Gaye, I see that a couple of you are just very brave. I haven't tried mixing that one yet. It does look beautiful in the book. I decided to take the books suggestion and try others first. Let me know how your next firing with the glaze goes and I may just give it a shot. As I said in my direct message to you I've mixed in 2 1/2 gallon batches the Powder Blue, Verigated Blue, Field Mouse Brown, Oatmeal. I've been using those on some things that I've done and I do like all of them except the Verigated Blue. It usually comes out green with dark brown and it seems to always have bubbles where the others do not. I looked in the book and it seems that the color result I'm getting is due to the application being to thin. It seems no matter how I try I can't get it thick enough. I'm going to keep trying till I run out of glaze and then I may never mix that one again. The first time I tried it I loved it. It actually had some blue and green in it. I can't seem to get that result again. I've tried it on different types of clay. I really like the Powder Blue. That glaze is really versatile. It looks good even if the application is to thin. I like it on my buff clay because it has a nice brown color where it breaks. If it is to thin it looks kind of rustic or country to me. Field Mouse Brown is nice also, however mine doesn't really look like it does in the book. It has somewhat of an olive color to it. The glazes that I really love in the book is Carribean Sea Green and Light Stormy Blue. I did try them on a couple of test tiles and on a couple small jars but decided to forgo mixing any more due to the kiln needing to be vented for the firing. I left a crack in the lid for that but I'm not comfortable with doing that to much. All for now, Crystal

"GaSeku" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@mb-m01.aol.com...

Reply to
CNB

in article Og%Ob.70899$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net, CNB at snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote on 1/19/04 7:13 PM:

Excellent book.

I have mixed all the samples. Excellent results.

By contrast, most of the stoneware cone 6 in Chappell's Clay and Glazes. Don't go there.

Marty

Reply to
Martin J. Kenny

You're not the only person who has suggested to avoid Chappell's glazes and yet there are potters who have it on their recommended lists. I think I'm going to listen to the warning. Maybe that's why he didn't include any photos in the book

Reply to
GaSeku

I have no doubt that somebody, somewhere, with some set of materials, on some clay, with some firing schedule, got results they liked with each of the glazes in Chappell's book. :-) In Mastering Cone Six Glazes, John and Ron discuss the firing schedulue they use which helps a lot. Even so, many get results that are somewhat different from what John and Ron picture in their books. You can see a couple examples of what I got at

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Click onthe pictures for a larger view. The very dependably black Licorice gave a nice tea dust effect for me(first row). I rather like it, but it's not what others get with it.Their Raw Sienna (no picture) turned bean pot brown, but I cut theiron in half and got the result in the second picture down in thefirst column.

deg

Reply to
Dewitt

Gaye: If I can stick my very long nose into this for a minute...

Just like cooking, a recipe is a "guideline". What works for one person will not necessarily work for everyone, since we all use different clay, firing schedules, heck, even the water we use to mix glazes has different minerals in it. Too many variables. (That's how we end up with different recipes:>)

You have to remember that, and adjust the "recipe" to suit YOUR particular set of circumstances. Those glazes probably were stable and reliable for Chappell, and Chappell loved them.

One size does not fit all :>) as I am finding out quite rapidly :>( Recipes "guaranteed to work" by long time friends who are potters have failed miserably (spectacularly) for me. THEN I hear "Oh, you're using an electric kiln? I use gas/coal/wood/ex-wives to fire MINE" or "Oh, you don't do a 300 hour soak at 19,000,000 C?"

AAARRRGGGHHH!

Like someone said..."test, test, test!" (and then repeat and see if it still works)

Just a thought. Wayne Seidl

Reply to
wayneinkeywest

Deg, The link doesn't work for me. I'd love to see it. Gaye

Reply to
GaSeku

You're probably quite right, Wayne. Thanks for the gentle reminder. Gaye

Reply to
GaSeku

Oops. Try

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Reply to
Dewitt

Deg, That gets me to your page and I see the title of your licorice glaze pics, but no image. Am I doing something wrong? Gaye

Reply to
GaSeku

Hmmmm. . . I don't know. It works for me. You might see if you see the image at

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could email you the pics if we can't get this to work. deg

Reply to
Dewitt

That worked. Nice looking, too! Thanks for going through all of that toruble. Gaye

Reply to
GaSeku

I have found Chappel useful. Here is a Chappel Boron-Lithum glaze that is similar to Warren MacKenzie's "Glassy Green":

^6

Spodumene 51.00 Gerstley Borate 26.00 Silica 23.00

Bentonite 1.00 (my oxides, same as MacKenzie's):

Copper Carb 5.00% RIO 0.50%

I've been in Japan for the last 4.5 years so I don't know if you can get Gerst Borate anylonger. Maybe the substitutes will work.

Lee In Mashiko, Japan

Reply to
Lee

The glaze and the clay body of the piece under the inside picture of the licorice are just what I'm looking for. Can you please tell me what they are? D Kat

Reply to
D Kat

The glaze directly under the caption "Interior of Dusty Licorice cup" (which is the photo above) is Waterfall Brown from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes. This is the same glaze that is shown on the cover of the book which you can see at

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's a somewhat difficult glaze and, like most of the glazes in thebook, requires a slow cool down cycle. I highly recommend the book.The authors have requested that the glaze recipes not be distributed.Not only did they spend a lot of time and money developing the glazesin the book, but it is unlikely that anybody could get the desiredresults without some of the addition info in the book - such as thefiring schedule to use. The clay body is Buffalo Wallow from Armadillo Clay here in Austin,TX.

deg

Reply to
Dewitt

Thank you. I will be buying the book (if I don't talk myself into buying their software instead.... In which case I don't know what I will do for recipes...). Your glaze is much closer to what I'm looking for than what is on the cover of the book... (red to gold - breaking brown).... I am assuming you are doing an Oxidation firing. If I'm wrong, could you correct me please. DKat

Reply to
D Kat

DKat: Try these resources for recipes:

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you can swing it, the book and the software go hand in hand...both are wonderful resources to use as reference. You can still usewiother without the other, but it really helps to have both. By the way. John's and Ron's recipes are intended for cone 6, and are considered "safe" for foodware unless noted. One more thing...it's customary (considered polite and in good taste) to include, whenever possible, the origin (author) of any recipe when quoting it, unless you modify it so drastically that it becomes a "new" recipe that you can name after yourself if you like. Like "DKat's Licorice Lick Version 1" It keeps us all from getting confused by, say, 75 versions of "Waterfall Brown" that vary only slightly.

Welcome to the "wunnerful world of glaze".

Wayne Seidl who still isn't finished swearing at glazes that run, craze, pinhole, crater, and generally make life unpleasant :>)

Reply to
wayneinkeywest

Thank you. I'm a tad nervous about venturing out on my own and appreciate the welcome.

The rules of common courtesy seem quite easy to follow... I'm from the Unix world where sharing of software code went without saying but after having lived in the MS world for the last decade I'm amazed that people share anything at all! It is so nice to be in the world of potters. DKat

Reply to
D Kat

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