Epoxy

Any epoxy will suffice, but not by itself. It requires some sort of filler material to span large openings. Microballoons (tiny hollow plastic spheres) have been the traditional filler, but West System offers a number of others as well. What these fillers do is thicken the epoxy mixture sufficiently to maintain a general shape. You could also use wood dust from the piece you're creating. Mix in enough filler to create something between thick ketchup and wood filler paste. Generally a slower-setting epoxy works best for this. The fast-setting types (5 minute) tend to remain rubbery and difficult to work with after "hardening."

Carbon. Lamp black or powdered graphite work well. I've seen other materials used as well, but can't remember what they were at the moment.

Sorry--never tried either.

I seem to recall that Lee Valley and some other woodworking houses offer pigments in powdered form. Might be worth some experimentation.

I've seen ground-up turquoise (stone) and coral used to color epoxy, with nice results. I really don't know why powdered metals wouldn't work well either. There is nothing corrosive in the epoxy constituents that should cause brass or copper to tarnish prior to setting up. Worth some experimenting, I'd think.

Jeff

"Art and Diane" wrote: (clip) - What do you use to color it black?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Ebony dust is good for coloring the epoxy. For other shades, I have collected some old dried out jars of poster paint. It can be crushed into powder and blended to match wood colors. I have found that a black filler can look quite attractive, while a slightly mis-matched attempt at matching the wood can look bad.

Brass and copper shavings or powder can work, but do a test. Sometimes the epoxy causes the metal to tarnish, so you don't get the bright sparkle you expect. A good source is the key machine at the hardware store.

Not necessarily for turnings, but I've used left over toner from a printer to color epoxy black. The one application I had worked very well to blend with black rubber grips. Maybe if I'd used less it might have been less "gummy" looking. Anyway, easy and cheap to try.

Slower stuff is normally more transparent. Soot. If you need it. The epoxy used to mend copper piper looks all right with cherry. The water-soluble paints, so I've heard. Kid stuff.

I like to grind bark and sprinkle it on the surface of a fill to avoid that dead fish eye look you can get with sawdust. Doesn't soak up as much CA or epoxy on the surface, will take a bit of oil.

Hello,

I'll second the recommendation for using mica powders with epoxy. They produce vivid colours and are available in numerous colours. These can be obtained at any art supply store, or art and craft supply stores like Michaels. Lots of options for getting them via the Internet as well. Dick Blick is a good source.

I've used wood dusts as well, with good results. I use a simple coffee grinder to powder shavings into a consistent size. These are then metered through wire screens to accurately calibrate the dust.

Another great filler is rock powders and is one of my favourite blending adjuncts for epoxy. I crush my own, but you can buy them already crushed from numerous places, lapidary suppliers and turning supply companies like Craft Supplies In Utah.

No matter what you decide to use, do a few test "blobs" to make sure the end result is what you are trying to achieve. The quantity of filler you use can dramatically affect the visual look of the fill, so don't risk a fine piece until you're sure of the outcome. Also, one final bit of advice... Make sure the epoxy is correctly mixed (mixing time and proportions) and let it fully cure before you attempt to reduce it in your abrasive protocol. Premature sanding will produce and "unintended and undesirable" result.

Through the years I have used and perfected many epoxy application protocols in a woodturning environment. If carefully mixed and used, it produces excellent results. Good luck to you and best wishes in all of your woodturning endeavours!

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Steven D. Russell Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio The Woodlands, Texas

Machinery, Tool and Product Testing for the Woodworking and Woodturning Industries

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I use WoodEpox from

This is a 2 part epoxy putty that was designed to replace rotten wood. Turns and sands just like wood. Abatron has a limited number of colors, dry powder, but black is one. I have used different liquid colors with it, water and oil based, with good success. I have never tried metal shavings but think that they should be fine to use. When using black with mesquite the WoodEpox looks just like the natural black in the wood. PS Strong as hell and sticks to any thing. Just lay, repeat LAY, a blob on metal and it will takes a hammer to get it off when it dries. GREAT STUFF!

I use 5 min. epoxy the kind in two separate tubes. I color it black with a drop of black dye (alcohol based). Brass filings look good but curls and small chunks like you get from drilling brass give a better appearance. Crushed turquoise added in looks really good. Just leave the filler above the level of the surrounding wood, then next day turn it level and sand. I usually mix up too much, and have learned to retrieve the turquoise by adding denatured alcohol to the left-over mixture and stirring. Pour off the alcohol and repeat a couple of times. If the void goes all the way through the object (bowl), I put a piece of blue painters tape on the inside to cover the void, then fill it from the outside. Fill it while the epoxy is liquid to avoid large bubbles.

Hi Art

I have used 5 and 15 min. epoxy, just don't believe that 15 min. will do. Also used some slow special epoxy that was over date, (aircraft and satellite use), it makes not much of a difference. what you use IMO, I have tried epoxy with brass and copper powder/filings and never got the real metal look that way, now I always use CA with the metal, I did use copier/printer black powder and it looks ok, just wait long enough for the epoxy to harden up, like 24 hrs, for large voids I like to use chunks of wood if I can and if it does not show, saves on epoxy, and no "speed heat" as can happen when filling large holes. As for paint or other material I have not used it so your guess is as good as mine I would say, and others may give you their take on that.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Art and Diane wrote:

Thanks you all for the comments. They've been a big help.

Art

Art and Diane wrote:

Any general purpose epoxy including boat building epoxy, but add a thickener like Cab-O-Sil and fillers like calcium carbonate or fibers like wood or plastic.

Black pigment dispersed in the right vehicle for epoxy. I would not use hardware store 'universal' pigment, which is dispersed in glycerin.

It can look great. It is also called 'cold cast brass', google it. You need VERY high loading levels of metal and just enough epoxy to wet the metal. Beware, some acid hardeners will react with brass.

Liquid plastic resins are notorious for being effected by other chemical. Paint is going to have all sorts of resins and dryers, which can effect the cure.

Dan