Big trouble with CA glue

Art soak the chuck in acetone, blow it dry, check for movement. If none then soak it again. If movement I would then soak it in a mix of oil cut 50% with paint thinner.

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote: soak the chuck in acetone, (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ If Darrell's suggestions don't work, I suggest submerging the chuck in a coffee can half-full of motor oil. Put this in an oven for a couple of hours, at 200 degrees or more. Then, wearing leather gloves, take the chuck our and try to move the jaws. The heat should soften the glue, and the oil will prevent it from re-adhering as it cools.

I would remove the jaws from the chuck before doing this, if possible. High oven temperatures go into the range where you actually could lose a little of the hardness of the steel.

AFTER THE GLUE IS SET, put the chuck it in the oven at 400° for 30 minutes. Then operate the chuck while hot should break the glues bond.

Walt

If the acetone doesn't work why not try the solvent they sell for the purpose of breaking CA bonds before any real exotic and perhaps damaging attempts.

Billh

Hi Art

If it had happened to my chuck, I would, (considering that CA is a brittle glue) try to loosen up the chuck, I mean if on a tenon, try to open, or recess try to close inwards, than grab a wooden or brass mallet and rap the jaws, side to side in or out, I would bet the chuck will loosen up, after that take apart and clean lube. I would NOT heat it up to 400 Degrees, if the foregoing did not work but than wood get the acetone or the special CA glue solvent.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Art and Diane wrote: > Is there anything I can soak it in to dissolve the CA? Or are there any

it isacetone - basicaly

why not 400 Fahrenheit, as in NOT Celsius, should not harm a metal chuck

Otto

Depending on the brand of glue, the shear strength could be as much as 3200 and the working temperature could be quite high. After 24 hours the glue will have reached it maximum strength. I suggest the use of the proper solvent supplied and sold by the manufacturer of the brand of glue you bought as the best way to tackle the problem. I would try to dissassemble the chuck as far as you can prior to the application of the solvent.

Woodturn

I think I would email the manufacturer and ask for their guidance.

$$$$$ is the reason. Acetone will take care of it. If my nose does not deceive, the stuff they sell is an aromatic, rather than an aliphatic. Not sure what it is exactly, but it works faster than acetone.

I soak tips in acetone when they get clogged from neglected tips or rushed work. Since I have two or three in the stuff at a time, I can just exchange for the appropriate feed rate and be back to work immediately.

Thoughts for after you soak your chuck clean. Use that hardener atomizer in the future, it does a number of things for you.

Always a good idea to spritz acid woods before using CA, even when you're just trying to control the way that knot gives up its soft material. Otherwise, it can take forever to set, and flow through, which will throw at you when you start the lathe again.

Especially good idea to spritz already sanded pieces, so the stuff hardens on the surface rather than penetrating and causing you sanding headaches or dictating your finish choices. The crack will still suck it in.

Last, I like to use bark for medium fills. A burr mill grinds different colors. I fill and soak until I'm almost at the surface, then I spritz immediately after the scatter, so the fill doesn't have time to soak up CA and become a shiny thing in a background of subdued oil finish. The bark will absorb as if it were the bark that originally filled the crack.

High speed steel can take a much higher temperature but not the chuck steel.

I seriously doubt if any of the steel in a chuck has been hardened. Therefore, there is no temper to remove in the first place. However, even it is has, and even if it is only carbon steel, plain carbon steel begins tempering (very pale yellow) at 430°F, and goes up from there.

Most plastics begin loosing significant strength at around 275°.

Therefore, heat to 350° or so and you'll be more than safe.

Dan

Thank you all,

I did get the jaws and spindle adaptor off with little trouble before everything set up solid. I had already tried to break the bond by smacking with a hammer, but nothing is budging. It's now soaking in acetone. If that doesn't do it, I'll try the oven trick. In case there are any others who are unfortunate (foolish) enough to have the same problem, I'll let you know how everything works out.

Thanks again, Art Learmonth

Leo Van Der Loo wrote:

Uh, make sure you don't toss that acetone soaked chuck into a gas oven!

Submerging the chuck in acetone will do the trick but have patience, it won't work quickly but everything should be nicely disolved in a few days. Even if you break the bonds by some other means, you still have to remove the glue, so you might as well just do the acetone soak from the beginning and be done with it.

-mike paulson, fort collins, co

I left it in overnight and all day today. Tonight I checked it out to see if there was any movement. To my surprise it the chuck worked perfectly. Just like new. I've left it in just to be sure, but the problem is fixed. I never got a chance to check the heat method or what temperatures worked best. If I had the thorough and disciplined approach Steve Russel has, I suppose I'd glue it up again and try cooking at different times and temps, but I'm just glad to get it freed up. Someone else will have to make those experiments. I'll leave it in for another day, then oil it thoroughly because I would guess all lubrication is long gone. Thanks to all of you for the ideas and thanks to Doug Black at

Art Learmonth

Mike Pauls>Submerging the chuck in acetone will do the trick but have patience, it

On Mon, 9 May 2005 17:32:13 -0700, Art and Diane wrote

LOL!!