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Follow-up on Tool Steel Question

Hope I'm not sounding too needy, but, I found the cold rolled steel and the HSS tool bits. I bought 3 feet of 1/2" CR Steel and 10 HSS bits. I drilled the end of a 12" piece of CR Steel out to a depth of about 1". I also drilled out 2 holes and tapped them for set screws. Now I need to make a handle. So that is where my question comes in. I have some nice maple I am going to turn for handles.

My question is the mechanics of attaching the handle to the tools. I have buffed the tool steel out to get the carbon residue off of it. I thought I would use a file and rough it up then use a 2 part epoxy to glue it in the handle. Any idea how deep it should be in the handle? I plan to make the handle about 14" long. Also, should I oversize the hole by 1/32 for the glue (and to prevent a blow out when I press the handle in) or go exactly 1/2" on the hole and plan on a VERY thin layer of glue? I am not sure that I have the skill or technology to make a ferrule for the handle, any other ideas for a way to keep the side to side force from splitting the handle out? Or any ideas on how to make or where to get something to use as a ferrule?

Thanks for the forbearance for a newbee at the art of tool making.

Neil Larson

Reply to
Neil Larson
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  1. for a 14 inch handle, I'd suggest a hole at least 5 inches deep
  2. the 1/2 inch drill will make an oversized hole anyway - to prevent "blow out", you could drill a small hole to intersect the 1/2 inch hole near it's base - just drill through the handle perpendicular to the 1/2 inch hole -
1/16th of an inch is big enough
Reply to
William Noble

Ugly is in the eye of the beholder, but the Oland tool that I use most often has a "padded" handle of duct tape wrapped about 1/2" thick..lol It's butt ugly but sure is comfortable..

Not being much of a metal worker, I'd probably make the fit tight and put a pin or set screw in it, recessed and maybe with the hole plugged.. As much as I admire the well crafted, good looking handles and jigs folks make, my priority is turning, so I just do what's needed to make it usable and head for the lathe.. YMWV

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

A small point, but the cold rolled steel is probably not tool steel and it would be a waste of money if it was. And, if it is "cold rolled" why does it have carbon residue on it?

Pete Stanaitis

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Neil Lars> Hope I'm not sounding too needy, but, I found the cold rolled steel and the

I have

Reply to
spaco

Neil... When you find a "general purpose" grind that you like, you might want to grind 2 or 3 extra ones while you have your jig or whatever set up..

I find it very handy to just replace a dulling tip and go on turning, especially at night when I don't want to fire up the grinder.. Especially since my sharpening bench is out in the carport and we do have one neighbor.. lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

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