Full sized or Midi / Mini tools for 5" x 3/8" spindles?

Emily, The tools you purchase are yours and should best suit your needs. I can't imagine the type of turning you propose with a 1-1/2" gouge simply because someone else uses one. Buy what you want. The Taylor minis should work fine. The prejudice in favor of full size tools exists as a hedge against unseen future needs. Just be sure to use a steady rest and don't purchase tools with short handes. Jim

Emily P wrote:

Spindel gouges need short handles to clear your body.

"Emily P" wrote in news:1157388183.179165.193450 @i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

I have both sizes because that's what I need. I started with the mini/midi set and still use them for pens, tops and other ornaments. My advice is to use what fits your work and what you are comfortable with. Given your small projects I would guess the small set would work just fine.

Karl

Emily... For your purposes, and assuming that you're new to the lathe but not to tools, you might start with what most companies call their "pen set"..

Something like this:

It covers the basics and includes an oval skew, which I think is easier to use than a flat sides/square cornered skew.. Do some practice spindles and have fun making shavings... as you make a few of your hooks, you'll know if you need other tools and can add then individually or in sets... (things like beading tools are cheaper in sets unless you only want one size)

Mac

Although I have a set of Sorby mini-tools, I'm not much of a fan of mini-tools. You can do some mighty delicate work with standard-size tools, for instance a 1/4" spindle gouge and a 1/2" skew. Plus, standard-sized tools are easier to control and sharpen. It's really going to be a bit of trial and error until you figure out what works better for you and what you are turning.

Barry

Thanks for your help! I'll check out the pen turners set.

When I bought the Jet mini they threw in a Nova midi chuck for $20.00. Can I do the small spindles with this set up or will I need to pick up additional chuck accessories or centers to get started?

After checking out a number of different woodturning catalogues and online stores, I have to say that the variety or chucks, jaws centers, spurs etc is a bit overwhelming. As a newbie turner it's hard to know what all the different ones are for and which are applicable in this situation.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Hi Emily, One of the best ways to determine what tools you need is to use what tools you have. If you have none, you could safely use cut nails ground as you like for practice on your tiny blanks. With your experience it might be fun to grind small scrapers, skews, hooks and parting tools and stick them into dowel handles.

Harbor Freight had a hss mini tool set (spindle gouge, flat skew and thin parting tool) for about $13. I bought a set because the tools were cheap yet attractive with nice 'Sorby type" handles and brass bottom escutcheons. I found them to be surprisingly useful.

I agree with Jim about your need for some sort of steady; fingers, string or whatever. Using you chuck will depend on the size jaws you have. Also keep the tailstock pressure at a minimum and drive the blank compressed in a chuck not with an open center. You could just drive the blank held in the spindle's Morse taper.

A good contest for rcw would be to guess the date that those crochet hooks turn into bowls and platters. Your Jet will wait, but not for long. :) It seems that the only people who start out turning small pieces only and continue are pen turners. Good luck & keep us informed.

ps. Years ago, I was taught how to knit & purl by ob nurses at midnight while I waited ...and waited. :(

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

For small spindles, all you need is the standard centers that come with a lathe. Use the spur center (with the X-type edges) to grip one end, and the live tail center on the other.

You will have some waste on the left side because you don't want to get your tools too near the spur center. Metal hitting metal makes me wince.

They do have smaller spur centers (with a smaller X) and even a small Steb Center ($$$).

See

for a small spur center - $25. But I think the advantage is being able to cut closer to the end safely without as much waste wood.

You could use your chuck to hold one end, and use your tail center for the other. It seems like overkill, but you can do that.

Long thin spindles may need support. But with the mini-lathe - I'm not sure you will need a spindle rest.

There are other choices, like the Beall collet system, but that is very expensive, and you need dowels or round wood before you put it in the collet. It's usually used when you need to work without a life tail center.

For materials up to 1/2 inch diameter you can hold in a regular drill type chuck which is available from most woodturning sites with a #2 Morse taper which fits into the spindle of your lathe. For items 1/2 to about 1 1/4 a set of pin jaws for your chuck come in handy. The least expensive place I have found for chuck jaws and chucks is KMS Tools. Chucks are handy if you need to finish one end of the piece on the lathe. The jaws that came with your chuck are probably bowl jaws suitable for larger items.

When you install a set of jaws on a chuck, they are usually numbered 1-4 stamped somewhere on the jaw and should be installed on the movable part of the chuck with the corresponding number.

Hi again, Emily, Bruce and I gave you conflicting and confusing advice re spur centers for driving very tiny spindles. We aren't really that far apart. I fully agree that a spur will work and may be all you need.

I had assumed that your spindles are end grain. I don't know why or if its even true, but I find (believe?) that somehow compressing the driven end of a tiny end grain spindle blank makes the turning go easier. (ain't I scientific?) Same with little or no tailstock pressure. Some turners even pull on the blank's tail. :)

Turn a blank to fit into the headstock spindle's taper and knock it snug. Then compare this with using a spur center. If no difference, permission to forget about it. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

Hi Emily

I'm coming in a bit late, just back from a very enjoyable 2 weeks with my youngest son and his family, (read 3 grand kids = lots of fun)

You sure are not starting off with the easiest turning project, turning very thin spindles are quite hard to do.

Using a spur drive to drive the spindles would not be my choice, it would be like pushing against a strip of cardboard from both ends, it'll buckle. pulling from both ends would keep it tensioned and less likely to whip in the case of thin spindle turning.

Use your chuck to hold one end and fit your other end of the wood into the live center opening, (you knock out the loose center pin) get it in tight and tape it to the live center, now you are able to tension your spindle just a little.

If you don't have a woodlathe chuck yet, get at least a drill chuck with the MT2 for holding spindles, you will need one for drilling on your lathe anyway, I do recommend getting the Oneway Talon chuck though, and the extra set of spigot jaws to hold thin stock.

The Henry Taylor miniature set is a good choice for the small items you intent to make in my opinion, as you will be close-up to the lathe and turning stock, you might find a bit wider skew a good addition as the

1/4" one is pretty narrow.

Oh yes one more thing, before I forget, if you use Morse Tapers, you will need to use draw bars to keep them from coming loose.(a draw bar is a threaded rod that screws into the end of the MT and goes to the other side of the headstock or tailstock and a washer and nut will then keep the MT from loosening and damaging the MT taper.)

One more thing, you can go cheaper on the chuck and tools, however good equipment does not remind you every time you use it that you should have bought better quality.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Emily P wrote: