Hollowing Gouges

I have a Hollowing gouge with bent neck ( round section bar), and the one thing I find I do not like is that the handle is too highly varnished, which means I have to apply heavy grip, which contradicts in my mind fine control. If I don't it rotates in my hand.

I have been thinking that I might cover the handle with a bicycle inner tube, or something similar to increase grip. Has anyone done this, or is there any safety reason why it should not be done, or a better solution ?

Reply to
John
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Sand off the varnish?

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

That was my first thought as well...

Greg G.

Reply to
Greg G

That was my original thought, but I took it no further as I wasn't sure if it woudl still give enough grip against the rotational forces

Reply to
John

Go to a bicycle shop and get some handlebar tape. It (used to) come in two types. One is vinyl and stays on by friction. The other is cloth with adhesive on the back. Get the cloth type.

Reply to
CW

In message , CW writes

That's something I had forgotten about as these days they all seem to have rubber grips. I will have to see if my local shop has some, its worth a try

Reply to
John

I'd sand first. If that didn't work, then I'd go to inner tubes or tape. The inner tube idea sounds better than tape, but then I never liked tape on bicycle handlebars. You might also look at the foam sold for insulating pipes.

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

Motorcycle grips are what's on the Stewart tool. Of course, you might try your snowmobile shop and get heated grips if you work in a poorly heated space.

Reply to
George

I am a newbie here and have not done much hollowing at all, but it sounds to me like maybe improper technique??? Are you keeping the straight part of the shaft on the tool rest. I found that with the little hollowing I have done that I don't get very much rotational torque unless I get a little careless and get some of the curved portion of the tool onto the tool rest. There is a little bit, of course, but even with my varnished handles it isn't too objectionable and doesn't require a death grip on the handle until the curved part of the tool gets onto the rest. Then watch out!

Hoping to learn something outta this,

Wayne

Reply to
NoOne N Particular

In message , George writes

Snowmobile shop? :)

Now poorly heated, that's a question Summer Hot ( 24'C) and Wet Winter 6'C and Wet Other times Wet - well it is the UK

Heating in workshop = the amount a body can produce.... Time to look at these heated grips :)

Reply to
John

Reply to
robo hippy

Duct tape..

My Oneway Termite was like that... I seem to remember going over it with 000 steel wool..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

John there is a Tape called Self Amalgamating Tape that correctly applied forms a very good bonded taped finish without all the problems associated with normal tape.

It should be available from any electrical suppliers [ I see you are in the UK, so Maplin have it, there item number KW29G]

Reply to
Richard Stapley

In message , Richard Stapley writes

Richard

Thanks for the suggestion. I have a roll here, but dismissed it as I have found that sometimes when it warms it can become sticky. But it may work. I have an old broom handle here I can wrap some around and see what happens over a month or two.

Reply to
John

Hi John, I'n not sure about the size blanks you are hollowing, but if deep you might want to consider adding a top handle to your tool. ie. a stubby handle near the ferrule at a right angle to the upper (opposite the tool rest) side of the swan neck. Nothing more than a long bolt or a clamped handle of your devising. Secure the tool handle beneath your forearm and grasp the stub for good control. If you use a nut & bolt remember to drill the hole behind the tang!

Instead of a top handle you coud add a length of crs bar say 3/8 in. diam. parallel to the swan neck and bend it to clear your blank while sliding to & fro on the outer left side of the tool rest.

You may not want to alter an expensive commercial tool, but I'll add these two dodges to Darrell's arm brace just for completeness. "Break a Leg" may be ok for actors, but "Break an Arm" doesn't encourage woodturners. :)

Where in UK? I spent some time years ago in Hampshire.

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Reply to
Arch

In message , Arch writes

At the moment I cant see myself hollowing much more than 6 inches deep

Based on what you have said, I will have a look at adding a stabilising bar, Have plenty of steel here I can make something from. An idea has already come to mind and has probably already been done.

I am in the south east in Sunny Kent:)

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Reply to
John
I

Go to the sporting goods section and get tennis racket handle wrap. I've made several handles out of black iron pipe with this wrap on them. The pipe gives a bit of weight, the wrap makes them comfortable and the handles easy to control (no slipping) while hollowing.

Jim

Reply to
JAMES M. PRENDERGAST

Here's what I've done... and it's a guaranteed fix against the tool rotating in your hand.

Prior to picking up your hollowing handle, put some CA in your palm - worked for me!

Reply to
Owen Lowe

In message , Owen Lowe writes

That didn't work. You forgot to mention orientate tool correctly before picking up :)

Reply to
John

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