Table Saw Safety

My Sears table saw comes with an anti kickback device that is more trouble than it's worth. Does anyone have suggestions for appropriate safety devices for cussing small pieces without the kickback device.

I have had more problems with things hanging as they pass the kickback device that I think it's more of a hazard with it on the machine than off.

Darwin

Reply to
Darwin
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"Darwin" wrote: (clip) Does anyone have suggestions for appropriate safety

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ By the time you are cussing, it is probably already too late.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

I use either "Board Buddies":

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or a "Grr-Ripper":

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depending on the size of the piece.

Reply to
Nova

I see a neat idea on "Woodworks". He uses a wooden pencil's eraser end to push tiny pieces through. I'd use a fresh, long pencil and due care even then. I agree that the anti kickback device is more trouble than it is worth, too. The one on my new Delta "hybrid" cabinet saw took a lot of "adjustment" (read file and bend) to get it to the place where it would sit there properly and still be easy to take on and off.

For many years we used to see the TV show guys having the things in place, just to show the rest of us how important it was. Then they took them off again and for some more years, they'd flash onto the screen with "Guard removed for photography" or something like that. Now, they don't have them on at all or talk about them. With all the use of crosscut sleds, I suppose they'd be even more trouble.

It seems that the marketing department says to engineering " make it LOOK like your are trying to make the saw safe so the CPSC and the lawyers don't get us, but don't really spend any significant amount of money on it". And they probably do that because we wouldn't pay for a device that really worked and still didn't get in the way.

Pete Stanaitis

-------------------------------------------------------------------------- Darw> My Sears table saw comes with an anti kickback device that is more trouble

Reply to
spaco

People want cheap - that's what you get. The minimal amount of effort to do the job.

One factor is that the stock splitter/pawls work OK ripping large stock. Saws that are used on construction sites and such rarely see thin stock and cuts that would pose too much of a problem. Want better, you have to DIY. I do wish that more manufacturers would adopt the use of EU style riving knifes, however. Little to no materials cost increase, other than revamping the tooling. FWIW,

Greg G.

Reply to
Greg G

Take it back and get a saw with a riving knife :-).

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

"spaco" wrote: >(clip) And they probably do that because we wouldn't pay for a device that

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ An example of a very expensive safety device that most people won't buy is the one that stops the saw instantly if you try to cut a wiener (or your finger.) Has nothing to do with kickback, though.

BTW, I find the GRR-ripper very effective. But don't make the mistake I did. It has to be adjusted to make the saw blade go through the tunnel. Otherwise, you end up with an unwanted slot in the plastic.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

You're not alone. Mine has saw kerf in it as well. Better that than my hand.

Reply to
CW

Grrrrrrripper (google it)

charlie b

Reply to
charlieb

I've been very happy with the Biesemeyer retrofit splitter/anti-kickback device (eg )on my Powermatic saw. It works with no fuss and pops in and out in a second if you need to make a cut where it will be in the way. It mounts on the trunnion so it rotates with the blade, it just doesn't rise and fall with the blade, so it can only be used on through cuts.

Roger

Reply to
Roger Wiegand

I've got a T-Splitter on my Jet cabinet saw and had one of the Jet contractor's saw before that... they work well and because they are easy to install and remove I actually use them. The factory items never got used...

John

Reply to
John Grossbohlin

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- Owen -

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Reply to
Owen Lawrence

Unofficially, of course- I don't believe I've ever seen a table saw in someone's shop that still had the blade guard and splitter still on it. I don't know too many people who don't think they're more of a PITA than anything, and it severely limits what you can do with the saw (cutting tenons, dadoing, etc.)

I've found that using a standard featherboard and a push stick tends to keep me safe enough, but you should definately use any safety equipment you feel you need or would like- you're the one taking the risks, after all. An understanding of your saw is the best defense- I've had two or three kickbacks, and I know for a fact that each one of them was a direct result of doing something stupid, and not due to any problems with the saw or the wood.

Reply to
Prometheus

That's almost certainly the case. I got a catalog a few years ago that was nothing but table saw guards. They looked good, seemed well designed, and were even made in the US- but unfortunately, they cost as much as a decent contractor's saw, so I had to pass on them for my shop.

Nice design work with some of those, though- I was particularly fond of the ones that mounted on the ceiling, and could be lifted off the saw and held out of the way with a pin when they were not in use without worrying about having to re-align them when you need them.

Reply to
Prometheus

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