Inlays

I'm looking for a Canadian or US source for soft minerals such as azurite, malachite and fluorite to use as inlay material to fill voids and patterns in some of my turnings.

I tried some sand from Michaels and did it ever do a number on my gouge :oops: Not only that, the ca glue turned it a very dark shade; it started out to be purple and ended up black purple :(

While I'm asking...what does everyone else use as a fixative for the inlay material? I know that if I'm using ca I should wax the edges to help prevent the ca staining. got this info from a google search.

I'm new to this 'inlay' stuff and can use any hints available :) Thanks!

Reply to
tomstorey
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Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

There is a series of Articles on this subject running in More Woodturning. First part is in the September-October 2006 issue, which will be mailed the first of the week. There will be two additional parts published in the November 2006 and December 2006 issues. This series of articles will answer most of your questions about adding minerals to your turnings. The article is written by Don Lindsley and it is a very comprehensive series.

Fred Holder

tomstorey wrote:

Reply to
Fred Holder

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Tom, When I need any precious or semi precious stones, I use Rio Grande in Alburquerque, NM. They have a huge assortment of natural, dyed, terated and synthetic stones, mainly intended for making jewelry. They also have all the tools that you would need for jewelry making. One of those things that will be helpful to you is a selection of 3-M diamond files. After bring your inlay down to a fairly smooth level with a carbide tool (or your good HSS tools if you're into self inflected pain), you can finish smoothing the inlay to a polished surface with the files (they come as fine, med, coarse grits, with coarse beginning somewher near 500 grit, IIRC). When I inlay, I crush my stone using a 3 inh pipe cap and an old Ford kingpin for a mortar and pestle, then place the larger particles on a CA base, wetting those with more CA, then working smaller particles in as the level rises. When all parts are above the surrounding wood, then start working it down with appropriate hardness tools. Clear epoxy will work as well as CA, but it seems to be messier (or at least the way I do it). HTH

Ken Moon Webberville, TX.

Reply to
Ken Moon

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