Ping: Leo Vanderloo

Not chickened out, Lendell... you just exercised common sense..lol

mac

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I'll cut thru all the bull Mac and tell the truth........I heeded your advice. Thanks Lyndell

Oh shit! Most people really screw up their lives when they try that... lol

BTW, 3 people have tried to buy that plywood mini-pen in the Christmas rush.. I still won't sell it..

mac

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Here you go Lyndell

About my drying cabin My drying cabin works on one principle, trying to prevent the high difference of moisture levels within the wood, which is the reason for the splitting of the wood as it dries. So I build a nearly airtight cabin, totally from wood, yes I used screws and nails, and insulate it totally, doors are 4" thick and insulated, 2 small windows also double paned with lexan, if you try to slam the door it will bounce back on the air, as the air cannot get out that fast. The inside and outside is unpainted, inside floor, walls and ceiling seams are caulked, these wooden surfaces do work as a buffer, as does the mass of the turned wood in there, by slowly absorbing and releasing moisture, leveling out the humidity spikes, as outside or inside the temperature and humidity levels change, the inside ones are slowed down by all this, the large roof overhang keeps the sun off the walls and the large trees shade it most of the day. The total and heavy insulated walls, floor and ceiling (floor is made from 2x6" at 12" centers, with 1/2" tong and grove plywood sheeting inside and painted 1/4 plywood sheets on the bottom side (underneath)) do help to slow down the temperature swings and thus extend the time it takes for the humidity level to change. Does it shorten the drying time, probably a little, but it is not a heated kiln and not the reason I build the cabin. Does it help prevent the splitting of the rough turned bowls, YES, do I have bowls split while in there ? YES, my rate of bowls that do split is less than 3%, more like 1% to 2%, and most of those had some splitting already or very good reason to do so. One 150 watt infra red light bulb will keep the cabin above freezing here in the winter time, but very seldom have the lamp on, only if I feel it's to damp in there, I don't want it to be dry though. I have used this cabin for about 15 years now and I have to keep up finish turning with roughing out, I'm out of room to add any more rough-outs, I have some 40 or 50 dried pieces sitting in the house and shop waiting to get finished. I do use paper bags and newspaper wrapping on some of my rough-outs for the first days/weeks and check up on them regularly, and use CA glue if anything looks likely to split or check right away, if there is any indication it might split/check. So if you want to dry your turnings faster, go for the freezer/fridge kiln and learn to use it and hope you don't have to many pieces split on you, I just didn't want more work and junk around, but an way to prevent the rough-outs from splitting on me, and it has worked well for me, now I have rough turned bowls that are several years in there, there's no rush, I pull out what I need or whatever I feel like turning. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

On Dec 16, 3:00 pm, "Lyndell Thompson" wrote:

Thanks Leo, I have filed it with all else that I need to do . It will get built ASAP. Lyndell

Mac, tell them your baltic birch supplier is in Indiana and unless they want to drive up here and pick it up for you .......they will have to wait in line. Take a ticket and take a seat! LOL Lyndell P.S.If you need a little chunk of it contact me off list and I will see what I can do. I am not sure how to get it across the border?

That might be fun, Lyndell... see if my skew technique is getting any better..lol Is your email address here real?

I order pen and bowl blanks by US mail all the time.. they open them at the border and never seem to have a problem with them..

mac

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Yes Mac, my address here is for real. I have all manner of spam filters and other garbage to filter out the bad boys. :-) Lyndell