interminable musings of an eccentric who turns concentric.

I rarely draw crossing diagonals in the ends of blanks to locate centers. I never check spindle speeds with a tachometer. I don't mike bevel lengths or protractor accurate bevel angles. I don't weigh bowl blanks, or measure exact lengths and diameters of highs, lows and transition points along a spindle or the lengths and diameters of chucking tenons and dovetails. I make no attempt to duplicate the scale and dimensions of working drawings. I don't measure much, that is if measuring means the use of the numbers on hardware such as scales, calipers, rules and compasses.

I don't believe that my being able to use ded reckoning to navigate turning seas is due to any great talent or wide experience. I think it's a natural part of a craft that to be comfortably proficient in generally means using unrestrained free flowing cuts to make largely ad hoc designs. This is not the same as wildly waving a gouge or having nothing in mind to begin with.

And it doesn't mean that I don't determine these variables by looking, listening, feeling, hefting and balancing. I rely on squares, calipers, depth gages, rules, scales, story sticks and the like for comparing but rarely for measuring in specific units. For precision and/or accuracy (there is a difference, isn't there?) for such as box lids and threads, I mostly rely on witness marks and the old reliable 'cut and try'. Of course, I don't make patterns, segmented turnings, lattices, pens or commissioned work, and some will add sotto voice: "or decent work".

My turning's golden rectangles are tarnished and the proportions are not divine. The height/width fractions are not classic ratios and I don't know the numerators from the denominators. My vessels' feet are size 12 W or larger, flat and the soles are neglected with never a pedicure, but they do keep the piece upright and decent. My hollow forms' walls are thick, and as rough and uneven on the inside as an rcw thread.

My orifices are open enough to drive a scraper thru and my finials are plump enough for lifting the piece. My cups hold tea and my bowls hold popcorn. Some even hold lettuce. My platter edges are thick and my cheese plates are round with tacky tiles in the center. My ornament's insides remain in and their outsides stay out and they are solid enough to bend small Christmas tree branches. However my icicles are delicate and fragile, owing to Darrell's fine tutorial (although he might prefer that my icicles not associate with his). Anyway, neither my icicles nor his tutorials are for sale on ebay or anywgere else.

I really would like to become a modern day upscale woodturner. I really would. Why can't I see that the grass is greener on the other side of the fence. The best flat woodworkers make bow dressers and use band saws to cut curves, while today's better potters use wheels to throw square pots and woodturners use table saws to cut straight kerfs and employ lathes to turn angular bowls.

The best current turners care enough to turn their very best; work that is off axis, oval and in the shapes of irregular geometric solids. When they inadvertently fall into route step and forgetting protocol begin a platonic solid, they wake up in time to avoid one of the classic 'five', hoping to turn the unattainable 'sixth'.

By all counts, I'm an out of step eccentric who favors concentric pieces and misuses his lathe to turn circular objects. So why do I have so much fun with my hobby? Maybe because I'm a practicing COC. It beats being a Doc. (not a quack, just a 'dead ole coot'. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Arch
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They change your meds, Arch?

Can I have a few??

mac

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mac davis

No meds, Mac. Too many Chinese adulterants in them for me. However I did change from a wee drop of a good Scottish single malt to a cheaper blend.

Guess I better go back to the good stuff and write a sequel about the pleasures of making precision streptohedrons, inside outs, off-axis, multi-axis and anything else except those boring round & plain lathe turned usable objects some dummies favor. I try, but it's not easy playing on both sides and touching all three bases plus home plate. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Arch

Ok, Arch... A couple of my latest that should ring a bell..lol Sort of a rebellion to celebrate finishing the "Goblets From Hell'..

mac

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mac davis

Ok, Arch... A couple of my latest that should ring a bell..lol Sort of a rebellion to celebrate finishing the "Goblets From Hell'..

mac

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mac davis

damn... it stripped my pictures!

mac

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mac davis

This is a text only newsgroup. Binaries (such as photos, programs and such) are not allowed. You can post a link to a hosted photo, or upload photos to alt.binaries,pictures.woodworking however. Don't shoot the messenger. ;-)

Greg G.

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Greg G

Hello Arch,

I really like this post and would like to have permission to publish it in More Woodturning, February 2008 issue. May I have your permission?

Fred Holder, More Woodturn> I rarely draw crossing diagonals in the ends of blanks to locate

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Fred Holder

Thanks Fred, You are welcome, of course, but I wonder about your acumen as an editor-publisher-businessman-woodturner! (I sent you an e'mail)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Arch

It was a senior moment, Greg... Being 1/2 asleep, I THOUGHT that I was posting to ABPW but it took me 2 "rejection" notices to realize that I was in the woodturning group.. I re-posted it to ABPW..

The good thing is that my old news server would have let me post it but the new one error traps for me..

mac

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mac davis

Meant to respond earlier, but time is never on my side. Being a relative newbie, my experience is limited. Nevertheless I will continue with my two cents worth...

Unlike Arch, I find myself caught between the "seat of your pants" artistic bent of free style turning, and the more tedious, meticulous, and preconceived requirements of segmented work.

When turning severed tree chunks, I am more interested (while not entirely successful) in finding the most interesting grain/figure as opposed to absolutely centering a blank. (And in most cases, actually finding a tree to turn is an art in itself.) Oft times, the form that appears at the end of the gauge is completely ad hoc even though a rudimentary decision as to the family of function was postulated at the outset. (Bowl, closed vessel, dibbler, etc.) The wood generally represents little investment beyond the time and energy required to acquire it, so material loss is not a significant factor. And since most turning blanks are typically domestic hardwoods, the waste may be used in a woodburning stove. Perhaps a motivating factor during cold winter months...

When turning segmented vessels, however, all of the above is turned on it's head. The woods are typically bought S2S or better, and are often imported from some waning tropical rainforest. Some are unfit to burn, due to various chemical compounds contained within. Waste equates to financial loss. The shape is mostly predetermined during the planning stage, and due to the cost of the woods used in some cases, attempts are made to minimize waste. I generally allow a tolerance of only an 1/8" or so, and radical deviation results in a ventilated form, if not physical injury - at least on heavy slopes. Most artistic facets are embraced much earlier in the game and with pen to paper rather than gouge to wood.

Yet segmented work allows one to use a variety of interesting woods, and not have to break the bank to do so. A couple of board feet of an exotic, it's use carefully planned, will contribute to several bowls; yet won't make a dent in most flatwork. I have gained knowledge and experience in how each species machines, sands, finishes, and ages - as well as which release chemicals when glued, thereby staining the adjacent maple parts a putrid bluish black, yellow, or red. I also learn the hard way which are the most toxic - both to my personal well being and that of joiner/planer blades and tool edges.

I do empathize with the desire and intent to produce items which serve some utilitarian function, however. Vases heavy enough to actually hold a bouquet without tumbling. Bowls which are stable when filled. Finishes which hold up to occasional dampness and hot buttered popcorn grease. And heaven forbid one should withstand being dropped. (Not an uncommon occurrence in your typical household.)

As for the current rage which rejects turning the concentric on machinery which was designed to do just that, I'm certain it is merely an attempt to produce something new, different, dare I say original, so as to not be lost in the endless sea of convention. As well, my original shunning of wood lathes was based upon a distaste of the ubiquitous turned table legs and such of much 60's era furniture. It wasn't until I happened across photos of bowls, burls, natural edges, and segmented woodturning that an interest in turning was sparked.

And in conclusion, for the sake of all who read this drivel, I'll refrain from further waxing. Other than to quip that in my neck of the woods, it's not known as being a COC, but rather An Old Fart. ;-) But either moniker, as you correctly point out, beats being a DOC.

FWIW,

Greg G.

Reply to
Greg G

Lest anyone conclude that I am picking on Arch, I'll retort with the words of some bimbo last year: "Oooo, I like old guys with money." Too bad she was only half right in her speculation. I do believe I officially qualified as an old fart as of last November. :-\

As well, one of my friends suggested recently that I use the name "Artful Curmudgeon" to sell turnings. Great. Well, at least I'm in good company.

Greg G.

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Greg G

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