Newbie trying to learn how to sharpen

What gouge? Some gouges, like "roughing" and forged or continental "spindle" gouges need no more than one angle, for which your normal toolrest will serve. It will also serve for your scrapers, your skew, and your parting tools.

Thus, the only type it won't entirely serve are bowl or pointed gouges with changing grind angles. Leaves you with two choices, get one and shorten the learning time, or sharpen softly freehand until you have the contour and capability you like, which will shorten your gouge. With a low-speed grinder, fine wheel and soft bond on the stone, you should soon find it as easy to lay the bevel on the rotating stone as it is to lay it on a honing stone. Remember not to sharpen the edge, just _to_ the edge.

I like to think of it as if I were turning the stone - same principles, just no skew angle.

Many do this freehand but it is a lot easier to use a jig - there are several on the market that work with your grinder - fast or slow speed. Oneway makes the Wolverine that is a full jig setup for a variety of turning tools - you will need the varigrind add on to grind bowl gouges or put a side grind on spindle gouges. Sorby also makes a jig setup. There is also an elsworth jig, but this requres that you build your own floor support.

You could also go all out and get yourself a Tormek grinder - lots of money, but well worth the cost. The jigs make gouge grinding foolproof and your tools will never be sharper. Check out tormekusers at yahoo groups. I spent a bunch on grinders and jigs and then gave up and bought the Tormek. No regrets - except on what I spent before it.

R

What's the approximate retail in us $?

you will need the varigrind add on to grind

Remember not to sharpen the edge, just _to_ the edge.

Could you explain the above. The book I'm using says to press forward into the wheel while simultaneously rotating down to the angle and right or left.

Don't put the edge on the stone, grind behind it at mid bevel until the first spark comes over top.

As I said, with slow speed grinders, high speed steel, and soft stones, it's real tough to get in trouble. You can match your bevel angle with the toolrest, point of tangency mid bevel. Turn it on, follow left and right until you see that first spark, or the first flake of the wire edge over the front. Normally one or two passes on a formed tool.

This is valid on dry grinding wheels which turn toward you.

As to grinding as we turn, you normally touch the rear of the bevel on the wood, do the same for the wheel. Then roll slightly toward the cutting edge as if you were about to grab a curl, stopping and following around until the edge is ready by the same standard as above. Difference is, you'd like a shear angle on the wood, but a perpendicular to the edge when grinding.

I'd never say "press," because that implies too much. Touch or contact is all you need.

Wolf, Now how confused are you? There are so many jigs and supports and methods it would be impossible to explain them all. And everyone thinks thiers is the best. I use the Ellsworth grind and his jig to produce it.

I think it is as good as any other and is not expensive. All othertools I sharpen with a flat platform set to the angle I want thebevel. I'm not pushing the Oneway system but it is a good one. Better yet watch the free download on thier web site and adapt theinstructions to your own needs. Have a look here: Hope this helps. This sort ofthing usualy takes some hands on. It's like learning to drive withoutgetting behind the wheel. I would suggest you find someone in yourarea, or a local club where you can get some one on one.Take care and...... Have A Happy Bob Edwards, San Antomio

OK,

A friend showed me how to grind a spindle gouge using a simple jig. The light bulb went on and it cuts like butter!

Any opinions on using a slip stone? How about wrapping some 220 wet and dry around a dowel and touching up the inside? Is that the same as flattening the back of a chisel or plane iron?

SNIP

================================= For all practical purposes, yes. However, you don't want to use 220 grit, but start around 400 or higher, since you don't want to remove much metal from the flute.

Ken Moon Webberville, TX

Old boys used to take off the wire edge by jamming a gouge into wood. I still do the same, but I let the lathe jam it into the gouge.

I don't hone a lathe tool.

=================================== George, I very seldom hone a gouge, but when I do, it's usually with some 600 wet/dry paper around an appropriate sized dowel. I some times hone a skew using 400-600 wet/dry on a steel plate.

Ken Moon