Nova faceplate rings?

I solved that one years ago, Arch.. want my notes?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

YES!! I've replaced 2 of them over the years... Most of my pieces start with the screw and eventually, especially with ironwood, the threads break down.. I've also found that an 11/32 or even 5/16" hole is better in soft wood..

The Nova chucks come with one too, I think..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Yes Nova chucks have the wood center screw as well. I don't have jaws mounted. I get better depth and torque control. Torque I'm thinking of bends off axis pressing softer wood over and under the jaw lip. Thus no lip - then only a flat the pressure is against a wide surface.

Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.

mac davis wrote:

----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----

The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

I don't have a set, but consider :

10 bowls in various levels of drying or staining or re-gluing......

They seem to be fast on / off once mounted. The rings are dovetails.

How about custom 'chucks' that you press hold cups or whatnot in while shaping. Put custom chuck on shelf and go to the matching plate....

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.

William Noble wrote:

----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----

The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

but mac - the rings cost 4x what a faceplate costs - why not just use a faceplate? what is the advantage of the ring?

** Posted from **

Because I'm LAZY, Bill.. Evidenced by how long it's taking me to put in my order to you for the spindle nuts and a couple of faceplates..

The appeal is to leave my chuck on the spindle as much as possible, and have good potential for re-mounting of the piece after drying, burning, etc..

It seems likely that you could make and sell something that would work as well as the Nova rings for less that the $20 (for the smallest size) and up...

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I can see that in a way, but with the Oneway chuck, the center of the jaws are what hold the screw..

Also, I've gotten used to watching the work approach the jaw surface as a way to make sure that the work is mounting flush.. I guess you could get as good or better view without jaws, though..

Again, being lazy, the appeal of the wood screw is that I don't have to remove the chuck.. I use the screw to hold the work while I cut the tenon on the tailstock side, then just remove the wood from the screw, open the jaws to release the screw, and chuck the tenon..

If I was going to take the chuck off, I'd just use a screw type face plate, anyway.. YMWV

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Well, I'm hoping that you can throw some large washers on your lathe and make less expensive ones, Bill.. ;-]

Again, an easy, quick way to mount and remount work with the chuck in place.. Also, to avoid cutting a tenon and using a ring instead..

I'm not a production turner, but usually work on a few pieces at a time.. This looks like an easy way to do it..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

the problem with making things out of metal is that material is costly - things like the faceplates are an assemblage of stuff I can buy in quantity at a good price, then assemble and machine and make probably 1/2 minimum wage - but I get to play with my tools and improve my skills for free.

Stuff where I have to buy material becomes quite expensive. - like wood turning - if you have to buy a bowl blank for $35, it makes a big difference over using a $600 chain saw to make the $35 blank out of free wood you hauled home in your $50,000 range rover (or $30,000 ford) and lifted using a $300 hoist and cut on a $6000 Lagun bandsaw .... .but the wood was free....

anyway, if there is a source of metal objects that are the right size to make these rings, I can make them, but if I had to order metal disks, my cost would be close to the price of the disk.

so smart folks out there, what's round and about the right size for these disks that can be acquired cheaply?

** Posted from **

John I have my #2 jaws on my chuck most, (#2 are about 2") I have my drill with a 11/32 bit sitting right next to the lathe, usually 11/32 unless the wood is hard and dry (seldom dry) I would use a 3/8" bit. It takes less time to drill one single hole at center than placing and adjusting a ring and screw in several screws. Only when I have soft spalted wood or a bad spot in the center that I do use the faceplate for the smaller blanks, that's more time consuming by having to take the chuck off and screwing the faceplate on and installing that. Anyway I can't think of a faster secure way of mounting and un- mounting a blank on my lathe than the woodwurm screw.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Hi Mac, you are right about the 11/32" size for the bit, that's the one I use most. And yes I think novas also have the screws, but I think they are round and don't have the positive grip sides like the Oneway screw has, it does make getting the screw out of the blank a problem as the screw turns around in the chuck. The other ??? about the screws you use for the ring, if you want to keep the ring on your piece till you are finished, what do you do about the screw holes in the piece ??

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Most of the time, on a piece using a faceplate, It's a vase of something that will have a cupped out bottom, also.. (like a champagne glass)

Like I said, I hardly ever use faceplates, maybe on 1 out of 15 or 20 pieces, but sometimes they work well..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Probably a climate thing, Darrell... Hot and humid makes me even lazier.. ;-]

I'm not good with glue blocks.. need to work on that, but when I do use them, they're held in the chuck jaws..

I have sort of adopted your between-centers bowl hollowing thing once in a while.. Safer, I'm sure, but very awkward for me so far..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I probably got lost in this long thread that started out re faceplate rings so I may not understand the problem. If so, ignore me.

Instead of a chucked screw I use a chucked spur. Allows for axial grain and defect adjustment. Actually I have a long shaft MT spur that driven by the spindle taper and is proud of the mounted chuck, the jaws of which are just tight enough over the spur's shaft to prevent rattle.

Of course I have to use tailstock support, but I can cut either a tenon or dovetail with tail support in place. Then I remove the blank, knock out the spur and seat the reversed tenon/dovetail in the chuck.

I know it's ok, but somehow I don't like to clamp my woodturner's scroll chuck jaws down hard on metal whether it's a ring, a screw, a spur or an eccentric disc. Just my hangup.. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter